Topic: Rotten rusted CB750 aka The Red Rider OUT OF HIBERNATION

[MoMo]

Greggo,  do you know the thread by any chance?  Seem like a fun read...Larry

[Greggo]

Larry, if you click on the "Quote from: Terry in Australia on January 13, 2008, 07:58:25 pm" link above the quote's text it will bring you to the thread.

[MoMo]

Thanks, Greggo, so obvious I didn''t think of that ...Larry

[MoMo]

Spent yesterday preparing the battery box for installation, after looking at the photo I see I still need to clean one of the solenoid terminals even though it is not in a contact area with a cable.


Photo of the chain guard shows where the Boge shocks(at least I think they are Boge because they are 70's vintage and made in Mexico) rubbed against the guard and wore through.  OO also had an o-ring chain that rubbed against the guard.  I plan to open the area where the shock rubbed so that it looks like Honda made it that way.


O-ring and loose chain wear inside upper chain guard



Main hold up before starting reassembly is finalizing the frame number transfer...Larry

[ekpent]

That thing must have made a little bit of noise going down the road at one time with all that rubbing going on.

[Terry in Australia]

I'm surprised that the PO re-installed the chainguard with Boge shocks, I've got them on my K1 (great shocks, BTW) but there was no way they'd fit with the stock guard, so I just left it off. If you need one though, a dremel tool and some imagination will fix it. Cheers, Terry.    

[lucky]

Vinegar will cause it to rust much faster.
Sculptors use it to make new metal have a rusted look.
Baking soda is put on batteries to neutralize the acid on the top of the battery.
If you mix vinegar 50% with water the steel will rust even faster.

Phosphoric acid is what you need . It turns iron oxide into iron phosphate.
It stops the corrosion process.

Then rinse with water and dry....paint within 4 hours.

Aluminum gets a white powder (aluminum hydrochloride) and again phosphoric acid is best for the corrosion, and then coat with alodine. You can get Alodine from Aircraft Spruce company.

Thanks mate, but I tried Phosphoric acid on the floats and it did nothing. Cheers, Terry.

Floats are made of plastic,cork or brass.

[Terry in Australia]

Thanks Lucky, mine are brass, but the phosphoric acid didn't clean the floats or the corrosion around them in the float bowls. I know that if I left them in that stuff long enough they'd probably come up clean, but my pot-metal carbs would have dissolved, so I'll try the vinegar/baking soda mix. Cheers, Terry.

[MoMo]

The baking soda neutralizes the acid and the vinegar ,which is acidic, removes the baking soda and battery corrosion.  Not a scientist but I think that is correct.  I moisten the terminals with vinegar, then cover with baking soda, let it sit and then dip into vinegar.  Quick rinse with water and blow everything off with compressed air. Cleaned the connections of my battery box really well.

Terry,  I cut the chain guard but haven't taken a photo as of yet.  Used a Dremel and a grinder to open the area so it looks as though Honda did it originally...Larry

[MoMo]

Installed the new bronze swing arm bushings that came with the bike.  Bought the swing arm installation tool  at the Home Depot where I work. It is 1/2" all-thread 24" long, plus I purchased  an assortment of nut, lock and flat washers.


I had the bronze bushings in the freezer for a day and the swing arm in the oven at 180 for an hour or so. Something I would not have been able to do if my wife were still alive.


First, gently seat the bushings in the swing arm using a brass mallet to tap them in just a bit. Then clamp the swing arm in a vise and set up the installation tool.



You need to double-nut one side so when the other side is cranked down to seat the bushing the all thread does not spin.

Then using a ratcheting box end(makes it so much easier to turn instead of a box or open end) slowly and steadily tighten the nut until the bushing is flush.



I then removed the nut and washer, installed a socket a bit smaller that the bushing and seated the bushing down to the proper depth.

Flip the tool over and do the other side, did not take more than 10 to 20 minutes.


Remember this bike has 75000 miles.  The swing arm did not have any freeplay but I replaced the bushing because they came with the bike. Somewhere in the life of the bike the OO must have installed tapered bearings.  Here is a photo of one of the races .  I have an extra set laying around to replace this mess, installation to come at a later date...Larry

[Stev-o]

Are you going to powdercoat the swingarm?

[MoMo]

No powder coat, especially since the bushings are in. Since the installation I did a lot of sanding, then primed and painted.  I will probably SprayMax clear coat.  I'm not a big fan of powder coating, don't know why-probably because I cannot do it and it cost money, and I have been called cheap ....Larry

[Stev-o]

You could do it, you have the oven...

[Terry in Australia]

I'm a powder coating fan, but like Larry says it's not cheap, and when I decided to refinish my K1 frame last year the powdercoater had closed for the summer holidays, so I took some advice from a member here and bought some epoxy rattle can paint ($23 bucks for two cans, which was enough for the frame and swingarm, battery box, triples, oil tank etc) and went for it, and the result was fantastic.

I then spent the 200 bucks I'd saved on beer, which came in very handy as that painting made me very thirsty. I'd certainly do it again, with no regrets about finish or durability. Cheers, Terry.


   

[MoMo]

Wow, Terry,  you must have some expensive beer down there, or did quantity supersede quality? ....Larry

[Terry in Australia]

Beer is very expensive here Larry, on average around 40 bucks for 24 puny little bottles or cans, I can knock one carton over in one sitting on a hot day, so 200 bucks doesn't go a long way!

[lone*X]

Terry,
What was the brand of rattle can epoxy paint you used?  I have been shopping for the right product to do a frame and swing arm and your results sound encouraging.

[Terry in Australia]

Terry,
What was the brand of rattle can epoxy paint you used?  I have been shopping for the right product to do a frame and swing arm and your results sound encouraging.

G'Day Mate, Dave500 put me on to it, it's an Aussie brand so I don't know if it's exported to the US, but it's called "Kill Rust", and the great thing is that you don't need to use any kind of primer on steel, it covers really well (you don't need multiple coats) you get a great glossy finish (shinyer than powdercoat) and it doesn't seem to chip. Great Stuff! Cheers, Terry.

[mrjack55]

Terry,
What was the brand of rattle can epoxy paint you used?  I have been shopping for the right product to do a frame and swing arm and your results sound encouraging.

G'Day Mate, Dave500 put me on to it, it's an Aussie brand so I don't know if it's exported to the US, but it's called "Kill Rust", and the great thing is that you don't need to use any kind of primer on steel, it covers really well (you don't need multiple coats) you get a great glossy finish (shinyer than powdercoat) and it doesn't seem to chip. Great Stuff! Cheers, Terry.

Nope, doesn't look like they let it out of Australia.  Bastards!      From what I read online, and from the looks of your beautiful motoscooter there, it sounds like the ticket for sure Terry.  I'll have to poke around the interwebs a little more to find the US equivalent.  Something I'm sure that the tree huggers here have already ruined for us. 

[Terry in Australia]

Terry,
What was the brand of rattle can epoxy paint you used?  I have been shopping for the right product to do a frame and swing arm and your results sound encouraging.

G'Day Mate, Dave500 put me on to it, it's an Aussie brand so I don't know if it's exported to the US, but it's called "Kill Rust", and the great thing is that you don't need to use any kind of primer on steel, it covers really well (you don't need multiple coats) you get a great glossy finish (shinyer than powdercoat) and it doesn't seem to chip. Great Stuff! Cheers, Terry.

Nope, doesn't look like they let it out of Australia.  Bastards!      From what I read online, and from the looks of your beautiful motoscooter there, it sounds like the ticket for sure Terry.  I'll have to poke around the interwebs a little more to find the US equivalent.  Something I'm sure that the tree huggers here have already ruined for us. 

I can check with the post office here and see if I can mail you a can or two if you like mate? It really is good stuff, and I'm eternally grateful to Dave for recommending it, anything that saves me money for beer is a great thing, in my opinion! Cheers, Terry.

[MoMo]

Terry,  it is a one part epoxy?  If so, that is amazing results...Larry

[Terry in Australia]

G'Day Larry, yep, it's an epoxy enamel, whatever that means? I was really happy with the result, only problem I had was I painted it in my driveway on a hot day and the overspray drifted into my garage and all over my new Triumph Rocket III! It was already dry before I noticed, so I had to use "cutting compound" to remove it. Cheers, Terry.

[MoMo]

G'Day Larry, yep, it's an epoxy enamel, whatever that means? I was really happy with the result, only problem I had was I painted it in my driveway on a hot day and the overspray drifted into my garage and all over my new Triumph Rocket III! It was already dry before I noticed, so I had to use "cutting compound" to remove it. Cheers, Terry.

I did something similar while painting my 400 four snow pearl-overspray drifted all over my black 750.  The person I traded it to used some sort of compound to remove it, whatever it he did made the bike look better than ever...Larry

[Terry in Australia]

Yeah, the overspray didn't hurt the Triumph, but my heart was in my mouth when I saw what I'd done!

[MoMo]

Finally got some time to get back to the rust bucket. Swing arm bushings were installed and then the rear wheel rebuild was started. Here is the special $1 wheel retainer remover

Then the wheel was mounted to the allen wrenches and vise, no heat was used only some PB Blaster-ring came right out using the leverage of the wheel.

Here is the result of 75000 miles

The rear brake needed attention as the actuator arm had been seized to the panel.  I had to spend quite awhile with 220 then 500 paper smoothing the panel.

Modified the chain guard so the Boge shocks would clear.


and yes the frame numbers have been transferred from the original to the donor



Chain guard needs to be painted but reassembly has begun.



All for now...Larry