Topic: Project "Evolution" 78' CB750K... the morphing continues...

[Stev-o]

 Picts to follow... stay tuned! 

Holy crap, Wilbur! How long do we need to stay tuned??!

[madmtnmotors]

 Picts to follow... stay tuned! 

Holy crap, Wilbur! How long do we need to stay tuned??!

Until now...


New (to me) Dyna DRL-200 safely stowed in the tool rev limiter tray:




All wired up:




Safely snuggled in some high density foam:




 

[madmtnmotors]

Dropped the oil pan today and found the rest of the wayward friction material from the friction disks that failed during test-n-tune two weeks ago:








Also addressed the weak link that reared its ugly head in the form of a failed glass fuse before half track in round three last weekend:







That's right, you are not seeing things. I added another 15A circuit dedicated strictly to igniting the fuel/air mixture. While I was at it I added a couple relays to take the load off the ignition switch. EZPZ 

No more failed glass fuses for me! 

[Stev-o]

Hey Wilbur...looks good.  Debating switching fuse blacks too, where did you source them, Hondaman?

Whens the next race?

[Rnobx67]

Want to keep an eye on your post. Amazing job done

[madmtnmotors]

The fuse block I used from here:

http://www.wiringproducts.com/4-circuit-raised-ato-atc-fuse-block.html

It uses 1/4" male spade connections on the backside. I had a melted fusebox in the parts bin that I harvested the harness pigtail from. New Vintage Connections connectors for the fusebox connections on the freshly trimmed wires and the other end plugs right in to the stock harness. The holes are almost exactly the same as the stock fusebox if you orient it horizontally. This stuck out a little far for my taste so I made a bracket to recess it in about 3/8" which uses the stock mounting holes and orients the new fuse block vertically as well.


Next race in Valdosta in April... coming soon! 

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Same company supplies a 6-fuse block.  http://www.wiringproducts.com/6-circuit-ato-atc-fuse-block.html

It's a good idea in that it allows you to carry 2 spare fuses (just in case).

[madmtnmotors]

Same company supplies a 6-fuse block.  http://www.wiringproducts.com/6-circuit-ato-atc-fuse-block.html

It's a good idea in that it allows you to carry 2 spare fuses (just in case).

I ordered a couple of those as well, but the side connections make this a rather large assembly when wired up. It can be done, just requires more real estate.

[Stev-o]

The fuse block I used from here:

http://www.wiringproducts.com/4-circuit-raised-ato-atc-fuse-block.html

It uses 1/4" male spade connections on the backside. I had a melted fusebox in the parts bin that I harvested the harness pigtail from. New Vintage Connections connectors for the fusebox connections on the freshly trimmed wires and the other end plugs right in to the stock harness. The holes are almost exactly the same as the stock fusebox if you orient it horizontally. This stuck out a little far for my taste so I made a bracket to recess it in about 3/8" which uses the stock mounting holes and orients the new fuse block vertically as well.


Next race in Valdosta in April... coming soon! 

Good info...thanks

[madmtnmotors]

The fuse block I used from here:

http://www.wiringproducts.com/4-circuit-raised-ato-atc-fuse-block.html

It uses 1/4" male spade connections on the backside. I had a melted fusebox in the parts bin that I harvested the harness pigtail from. New Vintage Connections connectors for the fusebox connections on the freshly trimmed wires and the other end plugs right in to the stock harness. The holes are almost exactly the same as the stock fusebox if you orient it horizontally. This stuck out a little far for my taste so I made a bracket to recess it in about 3/8" which uses the stock mounting holes and orients the new fuse block vertically as well.


Next race in Valdosta in April... coming soon! 

Good info...thanks

If you use the same (or similar) fuse block, I can post a pdf pattern for the bracket if you like.

[madmtnmotors]

Well, I figured a drag bike should at least be sporting drag pipes, especially since I've had a set hanging from the rafters for longer than I can remember. While I was at it I went ahead and sprung for a set of Steel Dragon's velocity stacks. Now I typically refrain from putting form ahead of function, but velocity stacks are just too dang cool... and their name even sounds fast!
















I got schooled on drag pipe installation as well. Turns out the left side pipes won't clear the kickstand spring (at least on a K8 anyway). I had to move the spring from the front (outboard side) of the kickstand to the back (inboard side):






Even after lowering the front by 2" and the rear by about 1-1/2" you'll notice that the center stand only lifts the rear by about 1/2". That's because the centerstand is from a GL1100, and it's a direct bolt on. Just had to weld on a spring hook since the GL spring hook was on the wrong side. The stock 750 centerstand would hold the rear wheel almost 4" off the ground. I had to roll it up on two 2x4's just to use it. With the GL centerstand I can roll the bike up with just one hand on the bar while stepping on the lever. 

[madmtnmotors]

Pics aren't showing, Wilbur---

Hmmm... I've attached the photos to the previous post to see if that will coax a connection to Google-fu. I have seen sporadic broken links to the Google photos but it will usually resolve itself eventually. 

[Stev-o]

Looks good Wilber!  Should drop your ET's by at least .5 sec!!

[seanbarney41]

whoa there Steve-o!  half a second would would be a quite significant improvement!  I never figured on those "drag" pipes actually having any performance improvement whatsoever.  But then I always ditched 'em for ground clearance reasons...not an issue on the strip.  Curious if you did any street tests after installation or any jetting changes?

[madmtnmotors]

Looks good Wilber!  Should drop your ET's by at least .5 sec!!

whoa there Steve-o!  half a second would would be a quite significant improvement!  I never figured on those "drag" pipes actually having any performance improvement whatsoever.  But then I always ditched 'em for ground clearance reasons...not an issue on the strip.  Curious if you did any street tests after installation or any jetting changes?

LOL! Don't know if there will be any performance gain, simply an indulgence. I'll likely sync the carbs, do some plug chops, and index the plugs next weekend. 

[Stev-o]

Looks good Wilber!  Should drop your ET's by at least .5 sec!!

whoa there Steve-o!  half a second would would be a quite significant improvement!  I never figured on those "drag" pipes actually having any performance improvement whatsoever.  But then I always ditched 'em for ground clearance reasons...not an issue on the strip.  Curious if you did any street tests after installation or any jetting changes?

LOL! Don't know if there will be any performance gain, simply an indulgence. I'll likely sync the carbs, do some plug chops, and index the plugs next weekend. 

Ha.... wasn't being serious about the ET times but I bet it will feel more powerful on the butt dyno!

[madmtnmotors]

I bet it will feel more powerful on the butt dyno!

That's the only one that matters! 

[Don R]

  Back to your jetting, we had jr dragsters and when we went from stock stroke to the +.563 stroker cranks we actually needed a smaller main jet. The extra pull on the intake made the carburetor work better with the components we already had. I ran a 30mm lectron, most guys had a 28mm mikuni.