Topic: 76 750F Brake rebuild time

[Vreihenmotor6]

hey guys, my new to me project is a 76 750F

its got sticking from and rear brakes, I just got some Christmas cash and would like to rebuild the entire system

I would like to rebuild the calipers, new pads, new lines and  master cylinder rebuilds

I saw that other post on the EBC rotors, but I don't have that type of cash to trow at this right now

is there any place thats a good source for this stuff?

I thought there was a place making stock replacement lines for these bikes that had a discount for sohc forum members but I can't seem to find it now

I would preffer to buy as much as possible from one place

any help would be appreciated

thanks

[MoMo]

Slingshot cycles is the forum member you are looking for.  I have used him, product and service is great.  Here is the link http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=54790.0   ....Larry

[Seabass]

Great product and price you will not be disappointed.

[imamotohead]

I rebuilt the rear caliper and master of my '75 F with Honda OEM parts.  They have parts for the front as well.   I got them here: http://www.westernhillshondayamaha.com

[Vreihenmotor6]

thanks a bunch guys, this is next on my to do list

do I need copper crush washers on the master cylinder and brake switch connections?

[City Boy]

Yes.Two crush washers at each banjo bolt location are required.

[BeSeeingYou]

The rear caliper is a little bit tricky to get apart.  You can't get both pistons out at the same time (no room) and if you pop one out you can't get the pressure to get the other one out.  The manual states to split the caliper and remove the pistons, ya right.   Here is what I did.  I rebuilt my front MC first and hooked it up to the rear caliper.  Use a small C clamp hold down the outboard piston and use the MC to pump the inboard piston out.  Clean the seal groove, put in your new seal and replace the piston.  Give it a quick system bleed and clamp that piston down and force the other one out, clean and replace.  Now if you choose you can split the caliper to replace the small O ring that came with your kit to seal the passage between the two halves. By doing it in that order you won't pump crud from the dirty side to the clean side.

[wedoo2]

I hate to ruin an excellent thread with an off comment, but this is one of the best I have read.  Good vendor information and some great hands-on advice to fix the posters' problem.  I will concur with the Slingshot reference as I just bought a master cylinder and brake lines from him and they are quality stuff.  But I have also read several threads that suggest replacing brake parts with OEM.

Vreihenmotor6, you do need a manual.  Here you go.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=17788.0

[Vreihenmotor6]

hey, thanks for the help guys, I did email slingshot but haven't gotten an email back, I was hoping to be able to buy the seals and stuff from him too, but I don't see them on the site for a 76F

[Vreihenmotor6]

thanks guys, heres where I'm at:



the entire brake system is apart, the calipers and rotors have been stripped and soda blasted externally in prep for new paint

the pistons were kinda stuck in, and that one rear piston was a huge pain to get out, I'll post pics of those soon to get a vote if they are worth reusing

I'm going to rebuild both master cylinders, and use slingshot non stainless lines

where is the best place to get the piston seals? crush washers, and rebuild kits

also whats a good choice of brake pads? and do the rear pads come with the pad retaining hardware?


also, besides a 90deg angle pick tool, anyone have ideas for getting the crud out of the seal slots?

mine look like this:



thanks guys, you've been a large help

[Vreihenmotor6]

its hard to take good pics of the bores using my point and shoot, maybe this is better

[Tanqueracer]

Bead blast and or soda blast 'em

[MoMo]

I have a dental tool with a little hammer head on it(I think it is supposed to be used for packing fillings) that I use to clean out the seal groove...Larry

[MRieck]

thanks guys, heres where I'm at:



the entire brake system is apart, the calipers and rotors have been stripped and soda blasted externally in prep for new paint

the pistons were kinda stuck in, and that one rear piston was a huge pain to get out, I'll post pics of those soon to get a vote if they are worth reusing

I'm going to rebuild both master cylinders, and use slingshot non stainless lines

where is the best place to get the piston seals? crush washers, and rebuild kits

also whats a good choice of brake pads? and do the rear pads come with the pad retaining hardware?


also, besides a 90deg angle pick tool, anyone have ideas for getting the crud out of the seal slots?

mine look like this:



thanks guys, you've been a large help

I'd use OEM. I'm in Ashland MA if you want to bead blast those parts. I can also get OEM parts at a good discount.

[Tugboat]

OEM for the seals, washers & kits. I actually cleaned my groove with just brake cleaner and a Q-tip. Most of what looked like rust was just buildup and cleaned up pretty easy. Give that a shot before you do anything else. BTW - are you just going to tape off your rotors and rattle can 'em?

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

A little eye candy 

[Vreihenmotor6]

BTW - are you just going to tape off your rotors and rattle can 'em?

yup, same with the calipers, I have different qualities of spray paint ranging from autoparts special, to spramax, I'm unsure which paint I'll use on them yet

[Vreihenmotor6]

update:

how do these pistons look?







I also got the seal grooves cleaned in the calipers and have some paint drying on them now

[grcamna2]

A little eye candy 

Jerry RX,
    Did you do the drilling on your rotor ? or send it out? was it a lot to do that one ?

[grcamna2]

update:

how do these pistons look?







I also got the seal grooves cleaned in the calipers and have some paint drying on them now

Vreihen,
        I wouldn't use 2 of those pistons, but one rear looks good.

[Vreihenmotor6]

truth be told they all kinda look the same

I'd like to reuse them as this build up is getting pricey

but if anyone knows a good source for replacements I'd like to hear it

[grcamna2]

There's a member on this forum who sells them made from phenolic material machined to fit for a great deal .

[Vreihenmotor6]

any idea on price, or user name?

[MoMo]

kevin400f, price in the upper thirty range-at least it was when I bought from him.  But I do not think he has your style...Larry

[BeSeeingYou]

The area that is important is the area in contact with the seal.  This does change over time as the pad wears but it is still a fraction of the depth of the piston.  I had just a few small pits in mine that I filled with JB Weld.  Yours are pretty bad but I would give it a try.  You have to be very neat and precise, it's not an attempt for those who "get more on them them than the object being fixed".   Clean them in acetone and use a flexible razor to scrape the epoxy across the surface(or a small squeegee made from a milk jug) that conforms to the curve of the piston.  The bigger pits may require a very thin second coat to fill any low spots.  You can also use the blade to shave down any high spots.  Very fine sandpaper will help too.  I would put the calipers back together and use the front MC to pump them up and check for leaks.  I would also think a local machine shop could make some out of the phenolic plastic that seems to work good.  Not sure about cost though.

What is going on is aluminum and stainless in contact with oxygen form a protective oxide that gives them their corrosion resistance.  Deprive them of oxygen and put them in a contaminated fluid (old brake fluid) and it happens.