Author Topic: trailering tips, anybody got any advice? (Read 2157 times)

gregk · « **on:** December 12, 2011, 01:36:12 PM »

I'm getting ready to haul two bikes about 2400km on a open deck single axle trailer. I know that the trailer can take it but I'm not quite sure about the tie down part. i've got front wheel chocks and anchors in the trailer bed. The literature I got with the chocks states in bold letters: The front tie downs must also pull the motorcycle forward and The rear tie downs must also pull the motorcycle forward. I do understand that the front tie downs must compress the forks to eliminate any bounce.
Who's had some experience with this?

MoMo · « **Reply #1 on:** December 12, 2011, 02:56:22 PM »

That is the standard method. I have my tie downs at a 90 degree angle from the bike with no problems - the forks and shocks are about 1/2 compressed. Carry a spare tire too...Larry

gregk · « **Reply #2 on:** December 12, 2011, 04:24:40 PM »

photolar

The info from the chock manufacturer indicates the tie downs must be pulling forward - front and rear. And spaced at about 3' apart. In the past, I've always fastened a bike with two tie downs on the front pulling forward and two on the rear pulling backward. And never used and chock for the front wheel, only something to keep the front wheel straight.

cb650 · « **Reply #3 on:** December 12, 2011, 04:38:40 PM »

I've always used tie downs pulling front and rear. Front first then rear. Sometimes double up the fronts on a long trip.

geminimotors · « **Reply #4 on:** December 12, 2011, 04:55:32 PM »

When hauling bikes with a wheel chock or other positive stop, I use 4 ratchet straps. Two at the front, pulling forward and down to compress the forks and firmly seat the front wheel against the chock. Two at the rear, pulling down to compress the rear springs just a bit. Many miles using this method with various trucks and trailers and never a problem.

jamesb · « **Reply #5 on:** December 12, 2011, 05:51:13 PM »

sounds like you have the same set up as me i have a pair of wheel chocks. mounted on my trailer. i use two straps per bike on the front. and and two on the back just so the bikes don't bounce around. you'll be okay. like photolar mentioned i would take a spare tire for the trailer. i have heard of people losing their bikes because they had a flat. and went to go it the tire fixed just to come back and find their stuff gone.

MoMo · « **Reply #6 on:** December 12, 2011, 05:53:40 PM »

Quote from: gregk on December 12, 2011, 04:24:40 PM

photolar

The info from the chock manufacturer indicates the tie downs must be pulling forward - front and rear. And spaced at about 3' apart. In the past, I've always fastened a bike with two tie downs on the front pulling forward and two on the rear pulling backward. And never used and chock for the front wheel, only something to keep the front wheel straight.

Did not mean to imply that my way was correct, I set my trailer up before I knew the correct way but never bothered to change it. I have not had any problems...Larry

Don R · « **Reply #7 on:** December 12, 2011, 06:00:26 PM »

I prefer ratchet straps. The slip style have come loose on my bike. If you do choose the slip type, tie a knot close to the adjuster so it can't slide back through. Beware of the really thin ones too. The method sounds correct. We tie the suspension down on our race car because the shocks are expensive and we don't want to wear them out in the trailer. The shocks auctually will get hot from bouncing, I apply the same theory to my bike.

faux fiddy · « **Reply #8 on:** December 13, 2011, 12:42:36 AM »

Check the tie downs often on the trip. Balance the trailer if you can, where there is little or no lift or down force on the tongue. If the traier has a wood bed you could even nail a choc behind the back wheel but really...(?) . And Run a yellow light instead of slamming on the brakes. When in doubt gas it, passing , stopping, or for a stale green light or whatever. You will be fine.

sopo400f · « **Reply #9 on:** December 13, 2011, 03:06:58 AM »

My trailer has a wooden deck. I like to screw down a couple 2x4s about 5" apart, from front to back to to make a rut that the wheels sit in. To keep them from possibly sliding out to the side.

IndyFour · « **Reply #10 on:** December 13, 2011, 05:59:55 AM »

This is a pic from when I purchased my 550 a few years back. I generally follow the same plan each time I trailer a bike....wheel chock (cheapo from Harbor Freight) bolted through floor, two straps pulling forward, two pulling sideways and slightly forward, and two on the back pulling downward. I like to compress (1/4 to 1/2 way?) the suspension somewhat to reduce bounce. Your attachment points will vary depending on your bike and the type of bars you have on it. I prefer to hook the front straps to the handlebars up near where the triple-tree clamp is....but for example, when I had drag bars on the bike, there was no room to hook there and if I recall correctly I had to thread the straps around the upper forks between the trees. The bike came with an old fairing and crash bars, so it was attached to different points than I would use now....but it gives you a general idea. I didn't care about saving this old fairing in the pic....hence I just had the straps right up against it.

I also agree that the ratchet straps would be superior to the friction type, although I think I used a couple of those on this haul because that's what I had.

One thing to remember....watch out for loose strap ends flapping in the wind.....they will mark up your paint!

Happy towing!

K5owner · « **Reply #11 on:** December 13, 2011, 06:23:24 AM »

+1 on using more than one strap at each point (good insurance - I had one strap go loose, was fortunate to have the back up). The wood is a good idea, keeps the bike in place.

gregk · « **Reply #12 on:** December 13, 2011, 06:40:01 AM »

Thanks everyone for the imput. I think that I am on the right track.
I got a message from a friend regarding the hooks on the tie straps coming loose after encountering a few big bumps in the road! I couldn't sleep after that. I have now eliminated the hooks on the tie straps ( ratchet type) and used a piece of chain and a clevis/shackle thru the chain.
Also the spare tire is a must, along with a jack and wheel wrench.

greenjeans · « **Reply #13 on:** December 13, 2011, 12:06:36 PM »

+10 for using extra straps. I've seen the aftermath of a $35000 custom bike when it fell over in a trailer with only 2 straps holding the front.

That's the day I learned most of my finest curse words. More straps are worth the extra piece of mind.

Don R · « **Reply #14 on:** December 13, 2011, 01:57:17 PM »

Quote from: IndyFour on December 13, 2011, 05:59:55 AM

This is a pic from when I purchased my 550 a few years back. I generally follow the same plan each time I trailer a bike....wheel chock (cheapo from Harbor Freight) bolted through floor, two straps pulling forward, two pulling sideways and slightly forward, and two on the back pulling downward. I like to compress (1/4 to 1/2 way?) the suspension somewhat to reduce bounce. Your attachment points will vary depending on your bike and the type of bars you have on it. I prefer to hook the front straps to the handlebars up near where the triple-tree clamp is....but for example, when I had drag bars on the bike, there was no room to hook there and if I recall correctly I had to thread the straps around the upper forks between the trees. The bike came with an old fairing and crash bars, so it was attached to different points than I would use now....but it gives you a general idea. I didn't care about saving this old fairing in the pic....hence I just had the straps right up against it.

I also agree that the ratchet straps would be superior to the friction type, although I think I used a couple of those on this haul because that's what I had.

One thing to remember....watch out for loose strap ends flapping in the wind.....they will mark up your paint!

Happy towing!

It's better to take the windshield off the windjammer for towing. I heard that once and didn't do it. Two weeks later the nylon bolts let go and I caught the windshield in my lap while crossing railroad tracks. Just in case anyone still has one they use.

jamesb · « **Reply #15 on:** December 13, 2011, 02:57:50 PM »

hey gregk i like the idea of the chain and clevis pin I'm going to start doing that i ran some I bolts and just don't trust them. now i know why i saved the short pieces of chain and just so happens i have some clevis pins too.man you learn something new everyday.

gregk · « **Reply #16 on:** December 14, 2011, 02:27:24 PM »

I read that some car guys have hauled with open trailers and "wrapped the car in that industrial saran wrap" And claim that it worked just fine. Anbody tried this?

Don R · « **Reply #17 on:** December 14, 2011, 10:28:18 PM »

Come to think of it I did have a hook fall off, repeatedly. It was an extra but did cause concern.

Goofaroo · « **Reply #18 on:** December 17, 2011, 05:22:45 PM »

To prevent the hooks from coming off, I hook a bungie cord between the two eyelets on the tie downs. This keeps the hooks in place if the bike moves enough to otherwise allow the hooks to come off.

Don R · « **Reply #19 on:** December 17, 2011, 10:58:08 PM »

Quote from: Goofaroo on December 17, 2011, 05:22:45 PM

To prevent the hooks from coming off, I hook a bungie cord between the two eyelets on the tie downs. This keeps the hooks in place if the bike moves enough to otherwise allow the hooks to come off.

Brilliant.

faux fiddy · « **Reply #20 on:** December 20, 2011, 01:20:52 AM »

Quote from: Don R on December 17, 2011, 10:58:08 PM

Quote from: Goofaroo on December 17, 2011, 05:22:45 PM
To prevent the hooks from coming off, I hook a bungie cord between the two eyelets on the tie downs. This keeps the hooks in place if the bike moves enough to otherwise allow the hooks to come off.

Brilliant.

A roll of duct tape can serve this purpose and many others on the fly. Might be worth having along.

gregk · « **Reply #21 on:** December 20, 2011, 03:56:26 PM »

I've just about got all the tie downs and hooks fastened into the trailer. I went with two straps holding down the forks ( pulling down and into the wheel chocks) and two pulling from the frame at the foot pegs ( again forward and down). Also placed two on either side of the rear wheel at 90 degrees to the frame. i think that this should do it. i've taken most of the travel out of the forks so there shouldn't be much bounce. Still not sure about the saran wrap!

Xnavylfr · « **Reply #22 on:** December 22, 2011, 02:58:08 PM »

I've hauled bikes every which way but LOOSE!!
Have the 2 straps on the front hooked forward and at about 45 degrees out from the wheel,, DO NOT LEAVE THE KICKSTAND DOWN.. With it down you can only pull the front down so far before the stand will stop you and could bend from the tension and the bounces. The rear ones can be hooked around the swingarm on each side and just tightened enough to keep the bike centered.
Hell I once pulled a bike 2000 miles by bolting it to a bumper trailer hitch with a angle iron box I built and removed the chain, ran a strap from the bars to each side of the bumper CAUTION ' DON'T TRY TO BACK UP LIKE THIS!!!!

Xnavylfr(CHUCK)

gregk · « **Reply #23 on:** January 12, 2012, 02:28:21 PM »

The bikes and trailer made the trip without any problems. I can't see where any thing had moved on the trailer. Two straps around the lower tripple tree pulling forward and down and two on the rear pulling the same way.

greg

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Author Topic: trailering tips, anybody got any advice? (Read 2157 times)