Topic: Simple Green and Floats(Finally Unstuck)

[nccb]

I tore down some 74 cb750 carbs today but I can't get the damn float valve set off, the pin is stuck.  I was planning on soaking in simple green for an hour or so, if I do this with the floats still on the carbs will they be damaged?  I have read other posts saying it won't damage rubber and plastic so I was thinking that it may help dislodge the grime from the pins?

These carbs were pretty gunked.

[Magpie]

it shouldn't harm anything but can darken the color of the metal on the carb bodies. Cliff.

[TwoTired]

it shouldn't harm anything but can darken the color of the metal on the carb bodies. Cliff.

That darkening is a chemical conversion/reaction of the metal due to simple green's chemical content.  The darkened color is actually surface erosion.

Why not use something intended for the task, like carb cleaner?

[Magpie]

Didn't know that - learned something today! Honda Combustion Chamber Cleaner works very well too. Cliff.

[nccb]

well I was but I wanted to get everything off that was plastic or rubber.  The only thing I can't remove is floats which are plastic.  I tried spraying carb cleaner on the float set pin, penetrating oil, and wd40 but no luck.  Only the 2nd carb floats will actually move but all the pins are stuck solid.  Have any ideas on how to get that pin out? 

[Eydugstr]

well I was but I wanted to get everything off that was plastic or rubber.  The only thing I can't remove is floats which are plastic.  I tried spraying carb cleaner on the float set pin, penetrating oil, and wd40 but no luck.  Only the 2nd carb floats will actually move but all the pins are stuck solid.  Have any ideas on how to get that pin out? 

Are the carb bodies off of the mounting plate that holds all four of the carbs in place?  If so, what I'd do is turn the carb body sideways until you see the end of the float pin.  Take a small punch (one with a tip that is as small or smaller that the diameter of the pin) and gently TAP the end of the pin.  Spray a little carb cleaner or penetrating oil on the top of the pin, and repeat until you start seeing the pin move. 

Once it starts moving down, you might be able to pull it out from the other side with some pliers, but if you do this be careful not to grab onto it too hard or it'll put teeth marks from the pliers onto the pin.  Might want to check out the emulsion tubes while you're at it, too, make sure they're not plugged.

[ekpent]

Don't bang to hard on the end of the brass pin or you will mushroom out the end and it will never go through or worse yet break off an alloy post.Try it a little from both sides..Is the pin gummed up with varnish ?or corrosion. I would soak in some real carb dunk for awhile,Walmart sell it the cheapest, to let that really work in and I have had good luck with a good heat gun and oil also in conjuction.Be patient and let the chemicals and heat do a little of the work.

[TwoTired]

If you have a soldering iron with a large mass tip, you can heat the post where the pin sits.

Don't get it too hot as the cast metal does have a low melting point. But if you heat then tap each end in turn, it should budge.

The heat will help break the bond.

[grcamna2]

PB Blaster penetrant spray may do the trick,soak them down w/ that .

[nccb]

thanks for the replies guys.  I do have them off the mounting plate.  I put some penetrating oil and wd40 on them and have them sitting for the night.  Ill look into getting a small punch tomorrow if i can't get them to budge.

[BobbyR]

If you have a thin finishing nail, that will work also. Tap to the left then right not important which way you start, you just want it to begin to rock back and forth. With some solvent and lube it should loosen up and come out.

[bjatwood]

You can use a heatgun to "warm" things up to expand things. That will also help get those pesky pins outta there. Good Luck

[DH]

Those pins can stick inside the float's hinge as well as the carb "posts". Warm the hinge where the pin goes thru it as well.
After removal, polish the pins with a scotchbrite pad or similar.

[nccb]

well I can't get the damn pins out.  I got a slightly smaller punch and tried heating but all I had was a lighter so not sure if it even helped.  I soaked them for about 2 hours in the simple green and sprayed with carb cleaner, avoiding the floats, in hopes that it would help dislodge any gunk on the pins but to no avail.

[Eydugstr]

Those pins must be gunked on really well.  Another thing you might consider is this...Berryman's carb cleaner (the stuff in the dip cans, not the spray stuff).  Fill a small can (like a dog or cat food can) with the stuff, then prop the carb in it to where only the pin & posts are soaking in it.  Try not to get the plastic floats in it.  Let it sit over night, then try again with the punch.

[bollingball]

I had this problem a few years ago I don't like tapping with a with anything to worried about the post breaking. I ended up making up a press out of a small c-clamp. Cut a notch in the fixed end of the clamp for the pin to pass through and used a small nail to push the pin out. Hard part was keeping the swivel on the clamp on the nail. after I finished the job I thought I should have drilled a small hole in the swivel end of the c-clamp. PB Blaster is the best I have used for a penetrate.

[ekpent]

A lighter is not going to cut it. Invest in a real heat gun. I use one all the time on these old bikes. Great for softening old rubber,heating metal, etc.,its never far from my work area. As I mentioned before the Berryman's carb dunk is cheapest at Walmart,around $17.00 or so for a large can. Should not really hurt the floats as the basket they have in them now are made of plastic,not metal anymore and work like crap,glad I saved my old metal ones. Sorry to say but sometimes you just have to invest in the tools and materials that will get the job done without pulling your hair out

[nccb]

Ok after 1 bottle wd40, half a bottle of 3-n-1 oil, and a lot of liquid wrench I was finally able to knock out the float set pins with a punch and hammer and not break any of the studs    I did still have to use the lighter on the brass which I think did help a little and had to rig up a small section of a punch out of a small nail because my punch wasn't quite long enough to get the remaining 1/8" out but it worked, sounded like a damn tinker shop under my house.

So now that I have the float seats out, which are also not springing, all I have to do is clean up the needle jet and plate, whose screws are stripped , and I'll have rebuilt my first set of carbs.  Well I'll still have to sync 'em.  Feels pretty good considering I've never done anything like this before.