Topic: AC Generator Bolt Removal

[Harsh]

I have read numerous threads on this issue and I guess I just don't understand it.

I am working on a '74 750.  The engine is out of the frame and on an engine stand.  Every time I go to turn the bolt to remove it the crank just turns which just prevents the bolt from loosening.  How do I keep everything from turning?  The other threads say to use an old axle bolt, the Honda tool looks like a socket with a T-handle on it, the Motion Pro tool looks like a bolt with a hex nut on the end.  Am I missing something here?

I stopped by the local dealership today and talked with one of the mechs.  Fairly old guy who according to the rest of the people in the shop said he knows these bikes inside and out.  He said to stick a piece of bar through the rod wrist pin holes and hit the bolt with an impact.  I am scared to do that.  Afraid that something will bend or break.

Additionally, the 6mm nut in figure 3-71 just spins as well.

Now is it necessary to remove these parts just to split the cases?

[jonnycakes]

I am working on a '74 750.  The engine is out of the frame and on an engine stand.  Every time I go to turn the bolt to remove it the crank just turns which just prevents the bolt from loosening.  How do I keep everything from turning?  The other threads say to use an old axle bolt, the Honda tool looks like a socket with a T-handle on it, the Motion Pro tool looks like a bolt with a hex nut on the end.  Am I missing something here?

I stopped by the local dealership today and talked with one of the mechs.  Fairly old guy who according to the rest of the people in the shop said he knows these bikes inside and out.  He said to stick a piece of bar through the rod wrist pin holes and hit the bolt with an impact.  I am scared to do that.  Afraid that something will bend or break.

Additionally, the 6mm nut in figure 3-71 just spins as well.

Now is it necessary to remove these parts just to split the cases?

The bolt HAS to come out first.  I put a long screwdriver through the rotor to hold it still, I guess you could put it in 5th gear and hold the output sprocket.  On on of my motors that 6mm nut was damaged and just spun......try grabbing it with vice grips and pulling outward as you turn.

[Danno]

I use an air impact gun and hit it with short bursts after spraying it with pb blaster and letting it sit
if you use an air gun don't put a bar or screw driver in the stator to hold it use your hands to prevent damage to the stator or the main bearings of the engine a bar will conduct the force of the impact gun to the bearings so it is better to let it spin free or use your hands to add resistence

[MCRider]

First to answer your question it is not necessary to remove the rotor or the ignition nut to split the cases.

To hold the engine, put it in 5th gear and hold the drive output shaft with vice grips or such. Per JC.

Note for the future. Remove these items before removing the engine by putting it in 5th gear and holding the rear brake. Adjust the nut up to where the wheel can't turn.

If the nut on the ignition drive is turning you may be turning the shaft that it is threaded onto. (Or the nut or the shaft may be stripped.) Take the point plate off (3 screws). That is all that needs to come off to split the cases.

Still, determine if the point drive shaft is turning, it is threaded into the end of the crank.

[Harsh]

Thanks for the replies, I truly appreciate them.  I followed MCRiders suggestion and split the cases with everything attached.  I just didn't see the necessity to remove something that really doesn't need to be removed.  It would have been nice to be able to put the bike in gear, but it didn't have a chain on it when I got it.

The nut on the ignition drive was easy to get off.  All I did was hold the nut on the generator (that I was attempting to remove) and it broke free pretty easily.

The case are split and tomorrow I will start slowly taking the guts out.  Marking, taking pics, and tagging as I go.