Topic: Blown starter clutch or am i cRaZy?!? --CB350F

[howardstapley]

I just got my starter motor installed on my '74 cb350f, traced the wiring problems down and before I wired in the new ignition switch I decided to test the starter by crossing the solenoid. The starter fires right up but just spins at top speed. I pulled it out and checked the sprocket that it comes in contact with (starter clutch I assume) and its spinning free as a bird with zero resistance. Is this a blown starter clutch?

[Bodi]

Sounds like the clutch isn't doing its job, at least.
What was wrong with the starter before, like why was the starter motor out? Was it removed and plugged by a PO? Generally only racers remove the motor to lose some weight. Otherwise I wouldn't remove it ... unless it didn't work anyway.
The driven gear you can see (and turn) turns freely both ways? The starter clutch only drives in one direction. There should be a bit of drag the other way too though, as the rollers should be contacting the gear hub.
Bad news is that repairing the starter clutch means splitting the engine cases.
I can't imagine the rollers, springs, and caps all getting themselves out of an assembled engine. Someone would have to assemble the motor without putting those parts in. Is that a possibility with your motor? Again a race motor could be done that way, the gear is required to maintain spacing in the transmission but the roller bits could be skipped if you didn't expect to install the starter motor.
It's possible that the springs are just gummed up and jammed, the rollers get retracted by centrifugal force when the engine's running and I've seen one (of 3) get stuck but never all 3, it could happen though I guess. You could try emptying the oil and filling the sump with varsol or kerosene, then lying the bike way over on the left side overnight or longer to soak those parts in solvent to try to free them - assuming they might be in there and just stuck.

[howardstapley]

I bought the bike without the starter motor or solenoid. When I went to install the motor it had a plug so I figured the guy just removed the starter for either less weight or because it died and just didn’t want to replace it. The inner gear moves very, very free in both directions. Does that still sound like a blown starter clutch or something else? Im not about to crack the case anyone knows what a shop would charge?

[scunny]

if you can kick it over and it starts and the clutch works, I would leave it until you need to reco the engine at a later date. workshop charge to split cases etc could be steep.

[howardstapley]

Yeah, it’s just that I hard spinal surgery and it would save my back allot of ache if I could get the electric start to work.

[scunny]

bugger, well if it means you can start/ride the bike without discomfort I think the amount you are willing to pay goes up(don't tell them)

[howardstapley]

I hate going to shops because you never know what there going to charge you until you get the bill which is why I always worked on my own vehicles but now with my back I can only do the little things. Does anyone know a good shop or personal mechanic in the Hollywood, FL area?

[howardstapley]

Ive been reading through the shop guide and it almost looks like you can get to the starter clutch through the oil pan, is this correct??

[howardstapley]

Yeah, my manual is for the 350 AND the 500 so it doesnt always line up with my bike but from what i can tell it sound like your 550. Anyone?

[Bodi]

OK, in the Honda shop manual you definitely have to pull the primary shaft before splitting the cases, and reinstall it after reassembling the cases.
This doesn't mean you can get the starter gear and clutch outer OUT without splitting the cases, but it looks like you can. There's a 25mm spacer that will allow the primary chain sprocket to move over enough, assuming you have room to get the chain off the sprocket.
It's pretty hard (umm, impossible?)to do with from below with the engine in the frame, you could remove and invert the engine or just flip the whole bike upside down (drain oil and remove the battery and fuel tank and figure out some way to deal with the front brake reservoir first).
Remove the oil pan and oil pickup.
Remove the oil pump and the clutch cover and clutch pack. Remove the 12mm bolt holding the primary drive gear and its washer and the drive gear. Remove the circlip, and the ball bearing and 25mm spacer should come off the end of the primary gear.
Pull the primary shaft out the oil pump side.
Work the chain off the sprocket and shift the sprocket as far as it will go towards the clutch side.
Now you may be able to slide the starter gear out of the starter clutch outer ring and remove it. There's a roller bearing assembly, hopefully the rollers are captive but they may come loose if the cage slides out of the gear centre hole.
Once that's out you may be able to work the whole sprocket/damper/clutch outer unit out of the case, otherwise it's going to be a bugger. You will need to inspect the clutch outer I think (if it's there!) and it will come out of the sprocket along with part of the damper but the 8 rubber damper blocks are going to come loose as well. Much better if you can get the sprocket/damper/clutch outer all out as a unit. Looking at the photos, I don't think it will come out though. I have a loose engine (400) here but I don't have the time or energy to try it.
The only major part that could be left out and have the whole primary shaft workable is the clutch outer ring, hopefully you are just missing the rollers, springs, and spring caps.

[howardstapley]

Thanks Bodi, as much fun as that sounds (like a root canal) I think ill just suck it up and keep kicking. Between flipping the bike and kick starting, I think the kick starting will be better on my back, besides, kick starting just looks cooler.
Thanks again.
Ps. Still wouldn’t mind the name of a good bike mechanic in the South Florida area.