Topic: CB750 Clutch Adjustment

[efyou]

Hi I'm a nube on the forum looking for help please.  I asked a question once b4 and got some good info, but much flaming about my username.  I'm just here looking for technical help from fellow SOHC4 enthusiasts and don't want to offend anyone or discuss my user name. 

After recently replacing the clutch cable I adjusted clutch cable per Clymer Repair manual by;
1. Screwing in clutch cable bolt at the grip lever until it stops against the bracket. 
2. Turn the clutch adjusting bolt at the clutch housing to slack off the cable. 
3. Remove the clutch cover, loosen the locknut (heard a clunk, sounded/felt like pressure release)
4. Turn the lifter adjusting screw clockwise until a slight resistance is felt.  Then turn back 1/4 turn counter clockwise.
5. Put everything back together and adjusted slack out of cable.
6. Put bike in gear, pulled in clutch and it feels like it's not totally releasing  This is less resistance than if I had bike in gear and tried to move it, but more resistance than if I put trans in neutral and try to push bike.

Clutch releases almost all the way out before fully engaging. (This was originally why I replaced the old worn cable.  I'm still unable to adjust clutch so clutch releases 1/2 to 3/4 way out.

I took everything back apart and followed the same procedure again with the same results.

Have I screwed something else up? Do I need to have bike warmed up to properly adjust clutch?

[Gordon]

6. Put bike in gear, pulled in clutch and it feels like it's not totally releasing  This is less resistance than if I had bike in gear and tried to move it, but more resistance than if I put trans in neutral and try to push bike.

Clutch releases almost all the way out before fully engaging. (This was originally why I replaced the old worn cable.  I'm still unable to adjust clutch so clutch releases 1/2 to 3/4 way out.

#6 is normal. 

The procedure you followed is for adjusting the clutch itself, which it sounds like you did correctly.  To adjust where the friction point is in relation to the angle of the clutch lever you need to adjust the cable at one or both ends.


I realize you don't want to discuss your username, and you don't have to, but as long as you continue to disrespect this well-established, long-running online community with your choice, I will continue to bring it up whenever I feel so inclined, and I make no apologies for that.  Having said that, out of respect for you as a fellow sohc4 enthusiast,  I will try to help you out when I can.   

[efyou]

Thanks for advice.  You say #6 is normal.  I assume is has something to do with hydraulics and the clutch will release all of the way once I start bike and engage?  If so, do I need to do that b4 adjusting slack in cable from bottom then top of cable?

thanks for understanding about name.  I use it everywhere, just easy to remember.  Mean no disrespect In fact, since it's my username, it's what I'm called by others, and it really doesn't offend me to be called by that name!

thanks again to the forum for sound technical advice.

[Gordon]

Thanks for advice.  You say #6 is normal.  I assume is has something to do with hydraulics and the clutch will release all of the way once I start bike and engage?  If so, do I need to do that b4 adjusting slack in cable from bottom then top of cable?
 

When rolling the bike with the trans in gear and clutch disengaged, you're spinning the transmission in addition to the wheels and chain, which accounts for the extra rolling resistance. 

[efyou]

Makes sense.  Thanks again.

[Brown Bomber]

I'm having the same problem, only worse. I've gone through the adjustment procedure as described in the Clymer manual to the letter, but can't get it into neutral after the engine is fully warmed up. Shifts fine for a couple of miles, then becomes very notchy, and wants to creep as though the clutch is not fully disengaged, and forget about putting it in neutral when I park. The 10w40 Valvoline motorcycle oil has less than 100mi on it, and the new cable was put on when I changed the oil. It's a K2 with 16,000mi that wasn't very well cared for, warped friction plates?     

[NickDrake]

I know this is an old topic but I found it while searching for a problem I've been having so I thought this would be relevant.

I was having the same problems as described, and I had the cables adjusted to the max. No matter what I adjusted, the bike wanted to pull forward in 1st with the clutch disengaged. This made it almost impossible to get into neutral at a stop light. So I took the clutch assembly out of the bike to clean the plates off and to check them out only to find mismatched friction plates (some looked barnett) and non-stock clutch springs. I swapped these out for stock plates and springs that I had in a donor engine and my problem dissappeared.

Just figured I'd throw it out there if anyone found this post looking for answers, like I did.

[nokrome]

whats wrong with his user name

[flybox1]

whats wrong with his user name

SSSSSSSSHHHHHHH!
its like staring at the horns on HELLBOY.... 



i like it though. 
reminds me of all the Islanders i went to Univ. with.

[Brown Bomber]

Since the last time I chimed in here, I switched to 20w50 and shifting is much better, and finding neutral after warm up is getting better with miles.

[Damfino]

whats wrong with his user name

I believe it's been changed since the time of the original post.  
His original name was efyou.

[vinniefranco]

6. Put bike in gear, pulled in clutch and it feels like it's not totally releasing  This is less resistance than if I had bike in gear and tried to move it, but more resistance than if I put trans in neutral and try to push bike.

Clutch releases almost all the way out before fully engaging. (This was originally why I replaced the old worn cable.  I'm still unable to adjust clutch so clutch releases 1/2 to 3/4 way out.

#6 is normal. 

Can you explain this is further detail? I am currently trying to adjust my clutch and it will not fully disengage, the bike can only go into first and tries to roll. Clutch is grabbing very hard.

The procedure you followed is for adjusting the clutch itself, which it sounds like you did correctly.  To adjust where the friction point is in relation to the angle of the clutch lever you need to adjust the cable at one or both ends.


I realize you don't want to discuss your username, and you don't have to, but as long as you continue to disrespect this well-established, long-running online community with your choice, I will continue to bring it up whenever I feel so inclined, and I make no apologies for that.  Having said that, out of respect for you as a fellow sohc4 enthusiast,  I will try to help you out when I can.   

[licks]

Anybody know why, When I loosen the lock nut for the clutch itself the adjustor screw will keep going in past the lock nut. It stops but then I cant use the lock nut if I only back it off a little (1/4 turn). I have a survivor 1974 cb750. The clutch slips when I'm getting a hand full up in the RPMs. I was running some Mystery Oil additive, but since I've had her hot/cold a fair bit now since 1993 last, I changed back out to 20 / 50. Odometer says 35000.