Topic: 1978 CB550F issues any help greatly appreciated

[Rgconner]

Some have reported that fresh oil and bit of run time slows the weep down or stops it.  Some oils have additives to keep orings soft and pliable.

Just a small clarification: Don't EVER EVER EVER put anything in your oil that promises to fix oil leaks.

EVER!

You have a wet sump, the additives will swell the clutch plates and then you are in for a new set.

Oil for these bike should also never contain "slip modifiers" either, it will make the clutch slippery too.

(OTOH, that was one of the things that made my bike cheap, the Prev. Owner had put regular oil in it and it slipped like crazy under load and shifted like crap)

The only additive you want in the oil is anti-shear/anti-foam additives that are found in Diesel engine oils like Shell Rotella and Mobile Delvac. Get it at Walmart by the gallon, in 10w-30 or 15w-40 depending on your temps.

 (probably 10-30 unless it gets over 100 degrees where you are. Wait, are you in the UK? maybe no Wal-mart. Whatever is the equiv. Tesco?)

Try a few brands. Sometimes a bike shifts better with different oils. I suspect wear and condition is why, or it might be just what the rider "likes" it feel like.

 

One word of advice: NEVER run 10w30 oil in these bikes. It is simply not heavy enough. At the minimum, and on cool/cold days only, you can run 10w40. Honda used that number on their dipsticks as a warning to never run lighter oil than that. Use 20w50 in summer, 20w40 in Spring/Fall if you wish, or 15w40, and save the 10w40 for the cold weather riding. If you use 10w30, you will soon have worn bearings and valve guides, provided the clutch does not burn first.

Sorry, typo/brain fart on my end. I know 10-30 is too light, and yet I repeated it several times.

/sigh

[TwoTired]

From my 77 CB550F owner's manual:
edit: fixed inverted pic?

[MikeKato]

Just a small clarification: Don't EVER EVER EVER put anything in your oil that promises to fix oil leaks.

EVER!

You have a wet sump, the additives will swell the clutch plates and then you are in for a new set.

So I put some liquid Seafoam in the oil tank & sprayed aerosol Seafoam through the carbs,with the bike running,in preperation for winter storage.
Should I be out in the garage draining all the oil out of my bikes right now to protect my clutch plates?

Thanks!
Mike

[TwoTired]

What owner's manual told you to put something other than oil in the engine?

[iancb550]

Many thanks twotired really useful information, I really hope the balancing of the carbs and re-jetting to suit this exhaust will cure the issues.

My local garages are being difficult about doing this work, as they say they can't get the other jets for this bike easily.

Is there a way I can check if the jets I have in at the moment are the correct ones or anyway to be sure which ones I need to order to match my exhaust?

Also is the UNI NU-4055 filter a replacement for the air filter?

I am going to check the spark plugs today and clean out the air filter and see if that helps at all.

With regards to fuel, luckily we don't add ethanol to the fuel in England as far as I know, it's also usually 95 RON but you can also get 99 RON.

[iancb550]

I noticed there were some tears in the rubber connection between one of the carbs and the airbox so far I have only put tape over this, it seems to have smoothed things out a bit, but I still get the drop off in power over 5k rpm.

Here are some photos of the tears and also the condition of the air filter not sure if it's good or bad really. Also does anyone else get the problem of the rear light coming on when the steering is locked, I get it for both when it's put to park and when it's locked.

[Rgconner]

Just a small clarification: Don't EVER EVER EVER put anything in your oil that promises to fix oil leaks.

EVER!

You have a wet sump, the additives will swell the clutch plates and then you are in for a new set.

So I put some liquid Seafoam in the oil tank & sprayed aerosol Seafoam through the carbs,with the bike running,in preperation for winter storage.
Should I be out in the garage draining all the oil out of my bikes right now to protect my clutch plates?

Thanks!
Mike

Seafoam does not promise to stop oil leaks.

[MikeKato]

"Seafoam does not promise to stop oil leaks."

Wasn't trying to stop an oil leak but it's coming back out to prevent damage. Starting to relive the feeling of when I pushed it in the corner of the garage and left it sit for 30yrs.

[TwoTired]

Is there a way I can check if the jets I have in at the moment are the correct ones or anyway to be sure which ones I need to order to match my exhaust?

Yes.  The numbers are stamped on the jet itself, and the number corresponds to the orifice hole size. A #100 jet is 1mm diameter. A #98 is 0.98 mm.
The outer carb bowls aren't too hard to remove, and the main jet would just pull out the bottom of the carb body tower.  Be aware that both the bowl and the jet have an oring for a seal.  And old hard orings seldom reseal.  The damaged rubber boot coupler is nearly a certain sign that the carbs have been off the bike, (caused by ham hands and impatience during carb removal).  So, it is possible that the jets may not be as Honda delivered, or worse, field modified by a hacker with a drill bit.  I recommend that verify the stamping on the jet with a measurement of the orifice.  I use the shanks of small drill bits and a measuring device.  What you should target is to find #100 jet.  I'd check with Check David Silver Spares, were I to live in the UK.

Also is the UNI NU-4055 filter a replacement for the air filter?

Yes. It is a far less expensive option here in California than the $50-$70 stock filter.  The UNI is cleanable and reusable for about 10-15 years.

I am going to check the spark plugs today and clean out the air filter and see if that helps at all.

Do check the plugs.  My experience and Honda directive says that the paper filter can be "cleaned" once, but replaced yearly.  The paper element can never be completely cleaned as new.  Looking at the picture you posted, I'd say it is past it's replacement date.  If the spark plug tips are black, the choking effect of a past due air filter could be causal (or contributory.).

The carb boot can be replaced by ones available from David Silver Spares in your country.
http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/CB550F2-SUPER-SPORT-1977/

You should know that the model designator for your bike is F2.  And it seems that England versions had their own separate parts list different from the US models.  This explains why your headstock number badge is different than US model convention.  Ours has the year model in numbers too big to miss.
http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550f2-super-sport-550-four-1977-england_model17121/partslist/

Glad to see your available fuel isn't an issue.

Cheers,

[iancb550]

I am going to order those rubber boots from David Silvers, they only come as a pack of four. I have found a garage who are willing to clean out the jets, I am hoping to be able to watch them do it for this time then in future do my own carb cleaning. Hopefully these are the right ones https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/CB550F2-SUPER-SPORT-1977/part_62205/

The exhaust it has is stamped as a Campbells with a part no of Z 622 It also has BSAU 193 T1 and a ref of 08 1991 which I am guessing is when it was made. Never really heard of them but I found an exhaust makers by that name and they seem to make custom exhausts so mailed them will pass on anything just in case anyone else happens to have one on their bike.

http://www.campbellcustom.co.uk/One%20offs.htm

[TwoTired]

I will warn that unless the replacement exhaust mimics the the pressure characteristics of the original, that the carb jetting will need to be changed from the stock selection.

It would also be of benefit to record the spark plug tip deposit patterns before making carb changes.

Cheers,

[iancb550]

Had some great news regarding the running issues, I changed the rubber connector from the carb to the air box and there was a massive improvement if anything now it just needs a little fettling and balance :-) thanks again. So if anyone else has the same issues at 5k rpm plus well worth checking for obvious vacuum leaks like I had.

[Bankerdanny]

It's amazing the differnce that such a small thing as an air leak can cause.

[phil71]

i hope you got this bike really cheap.

[iancb550]

It's only a perished / split rubber tube. Apart from that it just needs the brake bleeding and she's good to go.

Or is that really bad?

[iancb550]

It was about £1200 with 12 months MOT and basic service, 21k miles original UK edition with mph clocks etc. The prices in the UK are kind of high for these for some reason see: -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-CB550-Four-1976-CB550F1-/400262277480?pt=UK_Motorcycles&hash=item5d317da968#ht_1742wt_937  (import with 50k+ miles but excellent condition)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-HONDA-CB550-GOLD-1975-/170769553371?pt=UK_Motorcycles&hash=item27c2a897db#ht_579wt_934 similar / worse condition than mine slightly more miles, older, also an import and a K rather than the F.

These are the only two in the classifieds at the moment there is one other K approaching £900 reserve not yet met with 6 days still.

I need to move to the US..