Topic: possible house electricity prob electricians help needed

[Gordon]

I know that there's no "d" in refrigerator.


Like CycleRanger said, though, the compressors rarely go out, but it's not just on modern models.  Refrigerator compressors are more bullet-proof than a sohc4 bottom end.  They don't get thrown out or replaced because the compressor went out, they get tossed because they're old or some other component broke or wore out or they don't fit the styling of the new kitchen remodel. 

The refrigerator we have now is the one my parents bought new in 1980.  They were going to throw it out last year because it started making a hideous squeaking sound.  I replaced the fan motor in the freezer for about $25 (easy to find online) and we have ourselves a perfectly good refrigerator.  Meanwhile, my parents now have an all-the-bells-&-whistles model that cost several thousand dollars. 

[Damfino]

I know that there's no "d" in refrigerator.

Are you suuuuuure??

[BobbyR]

I have a toaster oven that crapped out, anyone have an idea why. Oh wait, I threw it out. It's not important, carry on.

[78 k550]

I have a toaster oven that crapped out, anyone have an idea why. Oh wait, I threw it out. It's not important, carry on.

You used it too much.

Paul

[Gordon]

I know that there's no "d" in refrigerator.

Are you suuuuuure??

Okay, you got me.  I just checked, and there is milk with added "D" in ours.

[MikeKato]

I can't believe that guy on the couch didn't even wake up! Sure that video isn't a fake?

[Spanner 1]

My wife hates our 80's Amana fridge.... it gurgles, she says it's got a poltergeist in it. Strange clunking noises out of the blue too when the house is really quiet and the dogs are asleep. Gives her a start at least 3 times a week. Her; ' Geez, what's that noise'... Me; 'It's only the fridge ' !... I love my fridge, I've seen its guts !... ( only 'cos I had to, to fix it once or twice  ).

[the technological J]

is amana any good? ive never heard of them before this friDge

[Gordon]

friDge

 

[Don R]

Water heaters 202 is back in class. You wondered about it having air inside. That can happen. There is a magnesium anode rod immersed in the tank. It's purpose is to corrode so the metal in the tank doesn't have to. Under certain conditions the mag rod will react with the water and will form a vaporous gas inside the tank. When you open the faucet it may sputter and have a rotten egg odor.
 Under some conditions it is necessary to remove the anode and plug the hole. If your heater is 10 years old most of it is probably gone by now anyway.
 The lower element may become immersed in lime. The lime appears to be little jelly like balls of slime, if they cover the element it can fail due to overheating. There is an element called a sandhog element that can withstand this problem. You can flush out the slime but the drain is the cheapest valve you will find, they usually don't close after you use them. In that case you remove it and put in a real valve. Difficult at best also.

[Stev-o]

How's your furnace working?!

[the technological J]

so after hitting the reset button on the water heater it popped again within 24hr and the fridge is stilll acting up (after i replaced the relay) it was only a little bit but now i think this might be a prob with the electricity in my house trailer because i had no prob between starting his thread and now.. but what else could it  be to caus e these problems together? the fridge is acting the same way all of a sudden and the water heaters reset button is..... needing reset often
 so if i take a measurement of my house's electricity what should it read? any other suggestions?

[Duke McDukiedook]

It should be around 115-125VAC at 60 Hz. Any higher or lower could cause problems.
You house trailer internal wiring could be futzed. Could possibly be a bad ground.

[ChuckG750f1]

I didn't read the whole thread, so if I'm repeating someone else don't hammer me.  FWIW low voltage condition will cause high current draw in compressors, heaters and motors.  This can cause thermal trips and damage.  Make sure you've got ~110-120 Volts AC at your outlets as a first check.  A long cable bringing power to your trailer could have an excessive voltage drop.  Do you have a hard wired service or a twist-lock plug connector on the trailer?  Faulty connections will get hot and drop voltage.

[the technological J]

i measured around with a volt meter and got 118 mostly, the bathroom there i got 117 and where the fridge plugs in i got 119

Do you have a hard wired service or a twist-lock plug connector on the trailer?  Faulty connections will get hot and drop voltage.

i dont know how can i tell?

[ChuckG750f1]

Those voltages are good.  Check them at high usage times (morning, dinner, etc.).  If it stays above 110 I'd say voltage is not the problem.

[the technological J]

my whole house air is running and i just reset the water heater were watching tv and im on a laptop.... and it measured 117

[Spanner 1]

Is the prob. fixed??.... what's the update.
Couple of things.... first fridge; unplug it and look at the pins on the plug for burning, turn off that circuit and look at the receptacle for burning and loose wire at the terminals.... try plugging the fridge in a different recp.
( on a different circuit ) with a 14 ga cord.
Water Heater.... reset button will only 'pop' if the temp. is too high, usually the top thermostat sticks 'on'.
I'd replace both stats..... a whoooole lot cheaper and less mess than changing-out the heater ( which actually is working O.K. minus the overheating )... good luck 

[the technological J]

NOPE ! using a cooler and i keep reseting the heater.. which now has blown the pressure safety switch.... replace what stat?



and some one earlier said that the compressors are bullit proof ive had a couple freinds and other repair guys say that the bearings can wear out and eventually there isnt enough voltage to kick it over( or its to ttough for the existing voltage to stsart)

[Spanner 1]

Here's how your water heater works  ....
The heater has 2 heating elements in the tank. One in the upper 1/3 and the other close to the bottom. Each element is controlled by a thermostat, upper and lower.... ( it's behind that plastic cover in your pic. ).
With the tank full of cold water, the top element is energised by the top thermostat and the top 1/3 of the water is heated-up. When this water is hot, the top thermostat 'clicks' over and turns the top element 'off' and sends power to the bottom element which proceeds to heat the bottom 2/3 of the water. When it reaches temperature the bottom thermostat 'clicks' off.... so now both elements are off and water is hot.
If you draw off some hot water, the process repeats, i.e. the top element turns on and starts over. Note that the 2 elements are never on together but act in sequence... usually the top one fails and allows the tank to overheat = the red button 'popped'..... HomeD. or Lowe's have replacement t/stats and you can easily change 'em yourself. Buy both, replace top one first and turn the breaker back on... if fixed, return bottom one.... 

[the technological J]

any way to test em? could i need to drain the thing and make sur ethe bottom isnt full of som kind of crap?

[Spanner 1]

Replace them = test them  .. it's not complicated... or do what ya want.. IMO with respect.
Ask Google.