Author Topic: Garage Floor Epoxy (Read 11120 times)

Accolay · « **on:** February 07, 2012, 03:44:54 PM »

Anybody done this? Are you happy with the results? What brand did you use?

I think I'd like something to cover the concrete so when I spill some oil there I can wipe it up easy like.

Gordon · « **Reply #1 on:** February 07, 2012, 04:23:53 PM »

This thread doesn't give a definitive answer (not that any do

), but there's at least some good info in it:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=48897.msg515670#msg515670

jamesb · « **Reply #2 on:** February 07, 2012, 04:36:53 PM »

the stuff you get from Lowe's, home depot,and hardware stores isn't very good.it doesn't cover very well.i have tried to use that stuff on commercial buildings that i lease out big waste of time and money.your best bet is to go to your local paint company we use ppg brand it has very good results and was able to handle forklift traffic and repair shop abuse. it is a little pricey. and when you apply it you have to have REAL GOOD ventilation, and make sure pilot lights are turned off you can have mixed in different colors.

mrrch · « **Reply #3 on:** February 07, 2012, 07:20:10 PM »

Be sure to check the moisture content in your garage floor first, if it is high always it will lift. We redid the showroom floor a couple of years ago and it started lifting. The guys from the paint shop then show up with a moisture meter and say "that's high". Great, alot of dollars and man hours wasted.

Accolay · « **Reply #4 on:** February 07, 2012, 08:25:32 PM »

How about other options besides tile or epoxy coatings? I think the garage is kinda wet and has some cracks in it where it has settled. Has anybody used garage floor mats? Maybe I might just get enough to cover the areas where there would be the most probability of leaks or spills. I like the way the race deck flooring looks, but I don't want to move it to clean it if there is a spill, and I'm thinking I might not like the price.

Stev-o · « **Reply #5 on:** February 07, 2012, 08:50:46 PM »

I considered epoxy but decided on ceramic tile. I will lay it myself, bought some nice 16's for 50 cents sq/ft closeout. I have paint now (PO did it) and it lifts where hot car tires sit on it.
My brother has tile in his, looks great, easy to clean, relatively cheap, so I'm sold.

BeSeeingYou · « **Reply #6 on:** February 07, 2012, 09:24:10 PM »

How ya doing John?
I am not sure there is anything that works long term here in Minnesota if you also use the space to park the car. The road de-icing chemicals ya know. Years ago when I worked for the company we had moved into a new warehouse and had the floor epoxy sealed. After a few years the spot where we drove in the vans/trucks to unload/load lost the coating and the concrete was getting chewed up and we regularly squeegeed the water out the door. Don't know what will work long term....just don't spill the oil.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #7 on:** February 07, 2012, 10:40:17 PM »

I do epoxy floors and lots of other epoxy work for a living. There are epoxy's that are harder that concrete and a good epoxy job will last a very long time. PPG have a product called Amerlock, we use it for industrial complex floors that have large trucks and fork lifts on them all day. If you are still considering epoxy let me know.... You can actually fill the cracks with epoxy before starting the floor.

BeSeeingYou · « **Reply #8 on:** February 07, 2012, 10:58:55 PM »

Quote from: Retro Rocket on February 07, 2012, 10:40:17 PM

PPG have a product called Amerlock, we use it for industrial complex floors that have large trucks and fork lifts on them all day.

But are they dropping chunks of snow/slush laced with sand and chloride containing deicing compounds in a freezing and thawing environment?

These coatings are better than nothing but still they will need re-coating more often here than in other places. Concrete scaling was the term I was looking for.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #9 on:** February 07, 2012, 11:13:18 PM »

Quote from: srust58 on February 07, 2012, 10:58:55 PM

Quote from: Retro Rocket on February 07, 2012, 10:40:17 PM
PPG have a product called Amerlock, we use it for industrial complex floors that have large trucks and fork lifts on them all day.

But are they dropping chunks of snow/slush laced with sand and chloride containing deicing compounds in a freezing and thawing environment? These coatings are better than nothing but still they will need re-coating more often here than in other places. Concrete scaling was the term I was looking for.

We use it on water treatment plants that are washed down with chlorine. It is an industrial epoxy with high solids content and is very durable. I just finished painting a complete Galvanizing plant, that will test the best of products...

MoMo · « **Reply #10 on:** February 08, 2012, 01:29:23 AM »

Of the floor coverings available to the average consumer Rustoleum 2 part seems to work the best. Cost about $100 to do a two car garage.

I have a friend with a auto repair business who gets cardboard and lays it under the cars he works on. His floor stays remarkably clean...Larry

Danno · « **Reply #11 on:** February 08, 2012, 02:14:17 AM »

Retro is correct the two part epoxy he suggests is very durable and we have even applied it in highly acidic as well as high salinity environments but it is slippery and for that we add crushed wall nut hulls to add grit to the floor sand won't do it the stuff is so thick the sand gets lost in it but the crushed wall nut hulls are available through most industrial supply companies that also carry the two part epoxy paint one piece of advice though do not mix up more than you can use in the alloted time on the label high humidity and high temp will make it dry faster and if you apply it in a cold environment it will take a long time to dry the last time I used the ppg product was on an airplane hanger for jets

I also do ceramic and stone tile as well as the plastic tile systems the cheap systems cost about 3 dollars a square foot for materials good ceramic will cost 4 dollars a square foot but can be less if you find some good earthenware ceramic or paver type tiles on clearance somewhere the mortar costs about 50 cents a foot to a dollar a foot depending on if you use a 1/4"x5/16" notch trowel or 3/8x1/2 for severely pock marked cement floors use a 1/2x1/2" notch trowell

the only advantage to the plastic tile kits is an individual tile can be removed and oil dirt etc cleaned and since most of them are not solid the oil dirt etc does not stay on top making them less slippery till they fill up with stuff jay leno uses one of these types of floors for his antique autos that leak oil and stuff so it is not visible on the floor he also claims that brake fluid from one of his cars destroyed his epoxy floor coating (not very good eoxy in my opinion)

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #12 on:** February 08, 2012, 02:26:10 AM »

Quote from: Danno on February 08, 2012, 02:14:17 AM

Retro is correct the two part epoxy he suggests is very durable and we have even applied it in highly acidic as well as high salinity environments but it is slippery and for that we add crushed wall nut hulls to add grit to the floor sand won't do it the stuff is so thick the sand gets lost in it but the crushed wall nut hulls are available through most industrial supply companies that also carry the two part epoxy paint one piece of advice though do not mix up more than you can use in the alloted time on the label high humidity and high temp will make it dry faster and if you apply it in a cold environment it will take a long time to dry the last time I used the ppg product was on an airplane hanger for jets

The drying time can be varied with accelerated thinners, it has about a 4 hour drying time but is best left till the next day, i quite often speed up with the accelerator and that is using 4 gallon drums at a time. { we quite often do 800 square meter plus floors}We also use sand for non slip finishes {pool filter sand}but it needs to be applied to the top coat and you really need to be careful so it doesn't clump up. We put the sand on by hand, throwing it on as if you were spreading fertiliser, carefully by hand in an arcing motion so it falls evenly, once mastered it is very easy, we also use crushed glass for non slip finishes. If the sand is too abrasive, a thinned coat can be added to the top coat afterwards. Amerlock 400 is the product.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #13 on:** February 08, 2012, 02:31:59 AM »

Quote from: photolar on February 08, 2012, 01:29:23 AM

Of the floor coverings available to the average consumer Rustoleum 2 part seems to work the best. Cost about $100 to do a two car garage.

I have a friend with a auto repair business who gets cardboard and lays it under the cars he works on. His floor stays remarkably clean...Larry

Larry, i do Ultra tune's floors and Repco, they are franchised mechanical centers all across Australia, we also do work for BP fuel stations and Visy {paper recycling plant, very hot and damp}.... Amerlock 400 is one of the best if not the best industrial epoxy on the market, it is not cheap, i pay around $400-$450 for a 20 liter kit {2 part}.

Danno · « **Reply #14 on:** February 08, 2012, 02:38:01 AM »

we use walnut hulls in the paint here although I have done the broadcast method here also using a hand cranked broadcast spreader for some reason here they don't like the sand so much and I hear you about the pool sand we used to use what we call well packing sand it is a larger grit but I suspect it is the same thing I was just mentioning the pot life as a matter of revelation for any novices to paint that may not know about the various thinners and accelerators that can be used with this stuff the airplane hanger we did was 11,000 square feet about 1200 square meters i think

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #15 on:** February 08, 2012, 02:54:36 AM »

Quote from: Danno on February 08, 2012, 02:38:01 AM

we use walnut hulls in the paint here although I have done the broadcast method here also using a hand cranked broadcast spreader for some reason here they don't like the sand so much and I hear you about the pool sand we used to use what we call well packing sand it is a larger grit but I suspect it is the same thing I was just mentioning the pot life as a matter of revelation for any novices to paint that may not know about the various thinners and accelerators that can be used with this stuff the airplane hanger we did was 11,000 square feet about 1200 square meters i think

When doing large floors {or even small ones} i tip the epoxy on the floor in a long line and lay it off with a 10-12 foot {or longer, never actually measured it} roller pole with a 2 foot wide roller. I like the big floors.... Then if we are going to non skid the floor, i use spiked boots {they strap onto your workboots} so i can "walk" on the freshly painted surface, we do flake finishes on concrete {with epoxy}as well for show room floors and offices and the like with a single pack clear poly U finish....

MoMo · « **Reply #16 on:** February 08, 2012, 03:54:09 AM »

Quote from: Retro Rocket on February 08, 2012, 02:31:59 AM

Quote from: photolar on February 08, 2012, 01:29:23 AM
Of the floor coverings available to the average consumer Rustoleum 2 part seems to work the best. Cost about $100 to do a two car garage.

I have a friend with a auto repair business who gets cardboard and lays it under the cars he works on. His floor stays remarkably clean...Larry

Larry, i do Ultra tune's floors and Repco, they are franchised mechanical centers all across Australia, we also do work for BP fuel stations and Visy {paper recycling plant, very hot and damp}.... Amerlock 400 is one of the best if not the best industrial epoxy on the market, it is not cheap, i pay around $400-$450 for a 20 liter kit {2 part}.

Retro, I am sure Amerlock is way better than Rustoleum but it is not available to the average Joe and usually out of budget. Of the products we sell it seems to work the best for the DIY user...Larry

Accolay · « **Reply #17 on:** February 08, 2012, 09:08:41 AM »

I think I'm starting to shy away from the epoxy idea, and maybe get a large vinyl mat for the car to hold the melting snow, salt and sand, and a smaller oil mat for the bike. The expensive epoxy might be out of budget, and don't want the cheap epoxy stuff to tear up on me-don't want to do it twice. I think I like the idea of putting down tiles, but not sure about making an unheated garage look that great, or if I had to sell the place if prospective buyers would want something that personalized.

Stev-o · « **Reply #18 on:** February 08, 2012, 03:32:34 PM »

Quote from: Accolay on February 08, 2012, 09:08:41 AM

I think I'm starting to shy away from the epoxy idea, and maybe get a large vinyl mat for the car to hold the melting snow, salt and sand, and a smaller oil mat for the bike. The expensive epoxy might be out of budget, and don't want the cheap epoxy stuff to tear up on me-don't want to do it twice. I think I like the idea of putting down tiles, but not sure about making an unheated garage look that great, or if I had to sell the place if prospective buyers would want something that personalized.

Consider vinyl tile, I did it at a house I lived at years ago. Inexpensive and easy to glue down, just go with a neutral color if you are concerned about future resale. It could actually be a selling point - a finished "mancave"!

BeSeeingYou · « **Reply #19 on:** February 08, 2012, 05:12:01 PM »

My neighbor painted his garage floor with the cheap stuff from Home Depot/Lowes/Menards. I will check with him this spring to see how it held up. I have used that stuff in basements and it holds up fine but have not tried it in a garage. You won't be able to apply it till it warms up anyway.
I am skeptical of the vinyl tile too. Everyone just has to remember where we live. It just won't hold up to the sand, gravel, chemicals, and water that our garage floors are subject to.
The mat idea sounds good. Try going to a flooring store and see if they have some remnants for cheap and you can throw them out when they get bad.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #20 on:** February 08, 2012, 05:17:07 PM »

Steve, at the Galvanizing plant i just finished, the top rails for the water sprayers on the caustic tanks were painted in epoxy as well, we had to sand blast everything as the corrosion was extreme, industrial epoxy is a completely different animal to the stuff you use on boats.....Actually, the American owners of the plant specified the product......

Stev-o · « **Reply #21 on:** February 08, 2012, 06:00:29 PM »

Retro - the epoxy you apply is def the best solution by far. But, for the average DIY'r, it doesn't really be in the project budget. And then we don't have the proper tools: sand blaster, sprayer and correct size compressor.
I considered all, and ceramic tile is the right product for me.
[I have tile on my back patio and front porch, installed by the PO]

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #22 on:** February 08, 2012, 07:06:47 PM »

Steve, you may have misinterpreted some of the things stated. You do not need to blast concrete, a strong detergent will suffice and an acid wash with diluted hydrochloric acid {also cheap, acid wash first then detergent}, repairing cracks is easy, there are epoxy bondo's on the market that are relatively cheap and are applied with a spatula, you paint straight over them, you can even add sand to mixed epoxy and use that as filler.. Paint is applied with a roller, not sprayed, no compressor needed. If the OP can supply a length and breadth measurement I can accurately tell how much product should be used, then a price can be worked out. I will also add that these products can be bought by anyone, and being an American company, should be cheaper in the USA. 10 litres would be enough to do a 2 car shop with 2 coats, 2nd coat can be applied after 4 hours.

Accolay · « **Reply #23 on:** February 08, 2012, 07:45:48 PM »

I'll bite. Approximately 24 feet by 22 feet.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #24 on:** February 08, 2012, 11:45:41 PM »

Quote from: Accolay on February 08, 2012, 07:45:48 PM

I'll bite. Approximately 24 feet by 22 feet.

Thats about 49 square meters, which would take 10 liters of epoxy {2.1 gallons} which is around half a 20 liter kit. Over here you can get them in 20 liter {4.3 gallons} or 4 liter {.87 gallons} you would need around 2.1 gallons of epoxy and half a quart of paint thinners, mixed together to do that floor in 2 coats. here is a pdf file all about Amerlock400...

http://ppgamercoatus.ppgpmc.com/products/pdf/400_PDS_AI.pdf

After a quick search It looks like it is around $177 USD for a 2 gallon kit......

http://www.coatingswest.com/cart/product.php?productid=16222&cat=250&page=1

Thats cheaper than i can get it here in Australia....It comes in lots of colors, there's a drop down menu in that last link for color...

Hope that helps..

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Author Topic: Garage Floor Epoxy (Read 11120 times)