Topic: Cb550 clutch lifter moves feely

[Van-van]

I looked around at some of the other threads but found most clutch questions were when already torn into.

I was doing my first wot plug chop and had it start slipping towards red line. It ended up holding, which was fine (068a, 110 mains, kn pods, lossa muffler on f 4-1 headers, stock engine, sea level, white lean btw). On the way back the I felt the clutch cable kinda pop. The arm swung freely, I jiggled it a bit and it worked fine. It slipped a bit more on the way back, then I downshifted for a light and suddenly the clutch dropped entirely and I was engine braking into first. The arm moves freely. I can shift into gears easily. How do I diagnose this?

Also, if there's anything supposed to be happening under the left hand cover when I lift the arm, there isn't that I can see.

Bike has 20k and an unknown history. A  backyard rot find that's sat for at least three years.

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[HondaMan]

It sounds like the clutch lifter at the case is adjusted a little too tight. This lets it go over-center when pulled in, then it won't slide back. Try adjusting it fully slack at the case, then turn toward tight, then back off a bit and set the bolt. Many of those lifters now have a notch worn into the lifting screw groove, which can make for a sticky spot, too. If you take it out of the case and clean the parts well, you'll see it: filing away the ridges of the lips of that groove will restore nice operation again.

If the clutch was greased on schedule, this happens around 40k miles. If never greased at all, like most 500/550 bikes, you're lucky to reach 20k miles before this happens.

[Van-van]

So I pulled the clutch cover. Gasket needed, check. The spring was behind the bar lobe so I reset that. Why did that happen? How do I prevent it from happening again?

Youw were right about the notch, I'll file that down.

I read somewhere that this guy should be a solid piece. Do I need a replacement?


I guess I'll put in a ebc clutch kit and springs while I'm at it. What else should I do while I'm here?

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[HondaMan]

I don't remember seeing lifter rods that look quite like that...

Sorry, but my comments about the "screw" lifter were for the CB500. I mis-read that you have a 550! 

In the 550, look for wear in the pivots of that long lifter arm, and for wear in the case where the shaft passes through from inside to outside. If the hole gets too oval, it needs to be bored & rebushed, or else a newer case installed, to firm up the clutch feeling and make the adjustment "sit still" between cold & hot.

[Van-van]

Its all working relatively smoothly. Really the spring moving out of place is what caused the issue. Why did it happen? I'm guessing from the clutch hopping over the lobe, but still unsure how it happened.

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[HondaMan]

Chances are, the above-mentioned case wear let the spring move out of place when the lifter was pulled too far. If installed and the adjustment kept within "bounds" of the spring's retention, it will stay for a LONG time. But if the arm's pivots or the lifter's hole is too worn, it can happen again pretty soon.

[Danno]

when you feel that pop in the clutch pull often times it is a clutch cable about to completely break and the slipping at high rpms is quite common with this age bike either don't push it up that far or get new clutch springs as the old ones are getting weak

[dave500]

the clutch has been adjusted too tight and galled the push rod also allowing too much movement once it wore down and letting the spring slip off the lifter arm,,youll need a new lifter plate aswell as the push rod itll be galled inside.

[Van-van]

OK so I replaced the plate, the lever, and the rod as well as a new plates and three steels. 10w40 castrol dino. The nut adjuster wont let me line up the hash marks exactly, the lever side is lower. Now with the lever giving 1/2 inch adjustment I have clutch creep and it will stall out when I let the lever out really close to the rear of the bike. My cable is adjusted almost all the way out. Thoughts? Did I assemble the clutch incorrectly? Force the nut?

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[Van-van]

New issue.

When I adjust the clutch adjuster nut at the case, if I let the clutch arm down the lobe inside prevents the lifter from letting the arm up. I have to back out the nut clockwise and then let it will let it up again. What's up with that?!?

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[dave500]

i find those dots dont really apply,back off fully the cable,then applying upward or in the disengagement direction on the lever with your thumb adjust untill the dots are some where near,,then adust the cable untill the clutch works correctly,,if it slips adjust the primary screw again to get more bite ,,and if it wont disengage fully but drags adjust it the other way.

[Van-van]

Ill try that. In the meantime, which way is the clutch collar #2 supposed to go in ? The back of.the whole basket.or between the plates.and.the basket ?

[dave500]

it goes inside the basket but under the centre

[Van-van]

It turned out the clutch just needed some break in miles. Thanks!

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[dave500]

good one,once its settled do two or three hard drag launches,adjust it if need be then use it normally.