Topic: Full Fairing Bracket, Advice Needed

[RickB]

Hello all,

Firstly, I've posted photos from the Daytona70, Meadspeed and Airtech websites for reference. Thanks to those sites and I hope the owners don't mind me using their photos for ease of explanation purposes.

I know this is not strictly racing related, but I figured the HiPo members have more experience in mounting CR style fairings than anyone else! Mods, if you'd prefer this in the SOHC section please move it for me.

Ok, so I've had a replica fiberglass 'Peel' fairing for my CB400F from Classic Motorcycle Fiberlgass sitting in a box for a while. The time has come to try and mount it.

To some degree, I'd like to replicate the way the fairing is mounted to the CR750. With the front frame and the L shaped mounts off the rear engine mounting bolt.

Although I would like to keep the guages, headlight and indicators mounted to the bike if possible. Ideally the fairing would be removable. I have both the Honda style quick disconnect nuts from Airtech and a bunch of the vintage Dzus Fasteners from DzusFasteners.net.











My bike is currently all together, and I would like to avoid welding anything to the frame. So I will try and use the U shaped bolt method that Airtech use for their removable bracket.

So some questions. What diameter tubing should I use for this? I don't have any welding experience, so ideally I'd bend this all up myself then take it to someone to weld it all together. I've read about different ways to bend tubing at home. From pipe benders to making a wooden jig, heating and bending the tubing that way. Will I be able to do this bending myself? I may be able to get access to a pipe bender.

I presume using steel over aluminum will make welding it that much easier. Mounting the front bracket to be removable whilst still keeping the headlight, gauges and ignition might prove tricky with the limited space in the head-stem area. If I have to weld a bracket here then so-be-it.

Any advice you can give me would be great. I haven't been able to find a post here on how to best do this.

Thanks,
Rick.

[H2Eric]

Hello Rick

I have a new Mead Speed kit that is surplus to requirements as I've used the Daniel Mercier version. However, the Mead Speed frame work is made from 1/2" steel tubing apart from the bit that sticks out from the headstock which is made from 5/8". It would involve welding the short piece shown in the picture you've posted to the frame. The instruments fit on a special plate available from Mead Speed.
The current price of a Mead speed kit is £140, but I'm open to a reasonable offer if anybody is interested.
The Daniel Mercier kit is made from 5/8" tubing throughout.

Cheers
Eric

[turboguzzi]

i solved this quite simply with some flat aluminum pieces and no welding,

works quite well (four seasons, no cracks) just doesnt look CR like.... it did require drilling and threading into the two sides of the steering stem tube. it is surely very light and stiff

let me know if you want pics, who knows, might give you some ideas.

if you decide to go with bent tubes, I would build a mockup with PVC that you can bend by heating, attach any pieces with hot glue gun  and bring it to someone with a proper bending machine

[RickB]

Guys,

Thanks for the help. H2Eric, the tubing diameter you gave me is a great help. That's larger than I thought. Those MeadSpead kits are for the 750, this bike is much smaller, a CB400F, so I think I could scale it down a bit just so it doesn't look giant. I think 10mm (~3/8) tubing would be enough for the bracing, the head stem tube could be bigger yes.

Turboguzzi, I hadn't thought of doing it in flat aluminum but I can see how it would work. If you have some photos that would be great. I think I'll try and do in round tubing to get that 'it looks like it was meant to be there' look but it may not be practical with the space I have to work in around the headlight area.

Great idea doing it with PVC as a mock up. I might just do that.

Thanks,
Rick.