Author Topic: 74 CB750 Navy Style (Read 80851 times)

dhall57 · « **Reply #300 on:** May 26, 2013, 08:16:45 AM »

You just about there and your K4 will be road ready. I know you'll get the few other things handled

No question Harsh check out this guys 76 Goldwing. Post some pics of it if you can. I brought a naked 77 GL1000 home last month. Can't wait to get it on the road.

Harsh · « **Reply #301 on:** May 26, 2013, 01:25:00 PM »

I think my wife would literally kill me if I came home with another bike. From what I understand all it needs is a fuel pump.

I have done a lot of reading about the clutch release point and from what I can tell it sounds like I have a clutch plate or steel issue. Like I said I reused what was in the bike, but I am not sure how worn they were or if the steels were warped.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #302 on:** May 27, 2013, 12:21:19 PM »

Are you using the CB master cylinder or the one off the GL?

Harsh · « **Reply #303 on:** May 27, 2013, 12:29:56 PM »

Neither. I am using one from a 2011 Suzuki GSXR 750.

Harsh · « **Reply #304 on:** May 28, 2013, 02:43:45 PM »

New EBC pads arrived today so I installed them. I was wondering if maybe I still had an air bubble trapped somewhere so I decided to pump the lever when the caliper was pulled away from the rotor. I replaced the pads one side at a time. On each side I gave the lever one pump. The piston extended, but not nearly enough to push themselves out of the bore. I could push them back in by hand hoping that an air bubble (if there was one) would free itself allowing me to bleed it out.

Took it for a test ride and the more I rode the better the lever felt. At slow speeds I could really feel the pulsing in the lever from the "warped" rotor. That is something I will have to look into after I get back from my trip next week (headed to Deals Gap). Not sure if the wheel/hub it out of alignment or if the mating surface is off somehow, but when the rotor is placed on a sheet of glass it is flat.

I will definitely have to replace the clutch discs. They slip. I think that might be why the release point is at the end of the lever travel. When cruising along and I get on it the revs jump, but I feel only a very minimal increase in speed.

Also noticed the speedo bounces all over the place. When I rebuilt it I didn't crack open the bell and refill it with oil. I took a chance that not to much oil leaked out. I guessed wrong. I am also going to have to replace the bushings that secure the guts to the housing because I can see the face plate wander a bit.

The rear springs will have to be swapped out. They don't provide any cushion what so ever. I think the David Quinn accidentally sprung it for a 305# person vice 205#. However, she handled very well in some curves. Dropped right in and held the line.

She will make an appearance on the Dragon!

Harsh · « **Reply #305 on:** June 01, 2013, 04:24:05 AM »

Headed to the Dragon today for a week of riding...pics to follow.

pampadori · « **Reply #306 on:** June 03, 2013, 02:17:35 PM »

I've had a couple of bikes with slipping clutches. More than not, not every disc is worn out. I've been able to get them to stop slipping by simply rearranging the plates and discs and putting things back together. Obviously its not always going to work but thought i'd share that in case you wanted to give it a try.
You can also flip them around in addition to rearranging them.

The bike stopping any better with the new pads?

Sixgunsrattlesnake · « **Reply #307 on:** June 07, 2013, 03:42:42 PM »

Good luck out there. Been there once on my F2, swore I'd never go back. Place is full of maniacs... Hope you fair ok and the bike treats you well.

Harsh · « **Reply #308 on:** June 12, 2013, 12:57:44 PM »

Took apart the clutch today. Checked everything and all is within spec, not burnt, not warped. I only had one steel with the slightest amount of warpage. It was at .03mm and spec is .3mm. I am going to take them to work tomorrow and bead blast them. I did notice some grooves in the basket so I used my jewelers file and some 220 grit sand paper and smoothed them out. The springs were well within spec, but I was able to compress them somewhat easily with my fingers so I think I will replace them.

Harsh · « **Reply #309 on:** June 17, 2013, 06:51:07 AM »

Finally got around to checking out the front wheel yesterday. It is definitely off. I used the ultra precision measurement method...a pencil. I held it against the fork while I had the boy spin the wheel. The pencil touched in two places. The first was about three inches long and the second was about 6 inches. The two spots were seperated by about 6 inches. I am supposed to get a dial indicator tomorrow so I can see just how far out it is. The guy that originally trued the wheels said he would fix it for me. It didn't seem that far out, but you could really feel it when riding especially when the brakes were applied.

Harsh · « **Reply #310 on:** June 17, 2013, 01:01:19 PM »

Got the replacement springs for the rear suspension. Unfortunately, they were the wrong length. I went with a 1" longer setup than stock initially. The springs I received were about an inch shorter than the springs I currently have. Called up Dave and let him know. He is going to send out the longer springs. He apologized profusely, but hey sometimes mistakes happen and his customer service is outstanding. I am very happy I went with the Hagon shocks through Dave Quinn.

randysway223 · « **Reply #311 on:** June 17, 2013, 01:12:17 PM »

Quote from: Harsh on May 24, 2013, 08:38:54 AM

I received the bearing retainer yesterday so I installed the bearing and put everything back together. The distance collar made no difference in the notchy feeling. I finally narrowed it down to the speedo gear. Packed it with some more lube ad it smoothed out a little bit.

WENT FOR THE FIRST RIDE TODAY!!!

I just took it down the street to check out a few things. The brakes still need some work. There is absolutely no quick stopping. They stop the bike, but it is slow. I don't know if the pads just need a little time to bed into the newly turned rotors or if I have an air bubble trapped somewhere.

The clutch needs some adjustment as well. It doesn't release until the very end of the lever travel. I prefer it somewhere in the middle.

And the rear shocks are very stiff.

No video because I was the only one home, but once I get the couple of issues sorted I will get some.

Nice transformation of the bike... As for the brakes, I think you might need to update them.. not quite safe riding around on bad brakes :p

Harsh · « **Reply #312 on:** June 17, 2013, 01:20:56 PM »

Read further...I did replace the brakes.

Harsh · « **Reply #313 on:** June 21, 2013, 06:56:11 AM »

Got the clutch springs replaced today. The lever is a bit harder to pull, but that was to be expected. I need to adjust it some more because the wheel spins a bit too much when the lever is pulled all of the way back. Hopefully that should be an easy adjustment.

Also installed the new rear springs/shocks. Things were going well until I yanked the rear end up too hastily to get the lower shock mount to slide onto it respective mounting point. When I did that I caused the front end to move too much and slide off/out of the stand. I did not have the front wheel on so all I could think about was that the forks were going to bury themselves into the concrete floor. The whole bike was crashing to the ground. Somehow I was able to keep it from falling and kept the front end from touching the floor. Still not sure how. All I know is that I was holding onto the rear subframe and kept it upright until the wife could get get the front stand back in. At that point I used some ratchet straps around the rafters and lifted the bike up.

That was a downright scary moment.

Since I had it suspended I finished attaching the rear shocks and attached the front wheel. I borrowed a buddies run out gauge set up so I could accurately measure how much the front wheel is out of true.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #314 on:** June 21, 2013, 09:07:47 PM »

Lucky save!! Nice spot of luck.

Harsh · « **Reply #315 on:** June 22, 2013, 05:34:16 AM »

Yah I was extremely lucky. I have been thinking about it and I still have no idea how the front end didn't end up on the ground. It is almost like it floated in the air.

Harsh · « **Reply #316 on:** June 22, 2013, 10:50:09 AM »

Took the CB out for a spin this afternoon to see how the new rear springs worked. They are so much better. I can actually feel the rear suspension work. The clutch worked soooo much better. The release point is still a bit further out than I would like, but there was a friction zone. When I romped on it the speed actually increased with the increase in RPM's. I re-did the entire front end assembly to make sure I didn't do anything wrong. It still wobbles and you can feel the pulse in the brake lever so I will pull it and send it back to be trued.

Unfortunately, I am going to have to take the clutch cover off. I re-used the gasket and of course it leaks. I have some gasket sealer that I used on the valve cover that I will dress the edges with to seal it.

Harsh · « **Reply #317 on:** June 26, 2013, 02:44:08 PM »

A thin coating of Permatex 2 on the clutch cover and there are no more leaks.

Finally got around to measuring the wobble in the wheel. Service limit is 2mm / 0.078

Here are a couple of vids showing the run out.

Slow

Fast

RAFster122s · « **Reply #318 on:** June 26, 2013, 05:52:07 PM »

Wow!!
10mm one direction and 6mm another? That is simply unsafe and not a wheel that was trued, could not have been.

johno · « **Reply #319 on:** June 27, 2013, 06:04:20 AM »

whats the gauge reading imperial or metric ?
if thou that would be .005 plus . 010 for total of .015 runout.....none of my honda spoked rims are that good.
Plus the new spokes ALWAYS settle in and loosen after a bit of a thrash and brake and if your chasing perfection retension for a .005 thou to 010 thou runout total. I find it gets hard to do once it gets down to those numbers but I dont do many so its not my bag.........if your still stressin can always buy mags ?

iron_worker · « **Reply #320 on:** June 27, 2013, 07:25:15 AM »

I'm guessing that gauge is reading in .001" increments. I got mine down to .008" ... I thought that was the spec limit. Looks like I may have been wrong. lol

IW

Harsh · « **Reply #321 on:** June 27, 2013, 01:17:56 PM »

Quote from: johno on June 27, 2013, 06:04:20 AM

whats the gauge reading imperial or metric ?
if thou that would be .005 plus . 010 for total of .015 runout.....none of my honda spoked rims are that good.
Plus the new spokes ALWAYS settle in and loosen after a bit of a thrash and brake and if your chasing perfection retension for a .005 thou to 010 thou runout total. I find it gets hard to do once it gets down to those numbers but I dont do many so its not my bag.........if your still stressin can always buy mags ?

It is imperial. Each tick mark is .001". I initially was reading it incorrectly thinking that when it went past the 90 mark that was .10 when in reality is is .010. Total the run out is .017 which is well within spec.

Now I wonder why my brakes pulsate like anti lock brakes are applied and when I am in nice sweepers I can feel the front wheel vibrate a bit. Slow speed braking, like when you stop at a light, you can feel the rotor push against the brake pads at the "high" spot. The rotor surfaces were turned and they are flat. The only thing I can think of is that the hub itself is cocked. I am going to check the run out on the rotors while everything is attached.

Any other suggestions?

Harsh · « **Reply #322 on:** June 27, 2013, 02:16:48 PM »

Just finished checking the run out on the rotors. I checked in multiple spots across the face and never got worse than .005 run out. Going to make a post in the discussions forum to get a little more exposure in the hopes to solving this riddle.

Harsh · « **Reply #323 on:** June 29, 2013, 07:04:45 AM »

Well I have narrowed it down to the left rotor or that side of the hub.

I removed the right rotor and took it for a test drive. Pulsing was still there. Put the right rotor back on, removed the left rotor, and took it for a test ride. The pulsing was gone.

Today I am going to put the right rotor on the left side and see if the pulsing comes back. If it does I believe that would pinpoint the issue to the hub. If it doesn't pulse that would confirm the rotor has an issue.

MOONDOGNYC · « **Reply #324 on:** June 29, 2013, 09:32:30 AM »

Just asking...did you check the new wheel bearings ?

News:

Author Topic: 74 CB750 Navy Style (Read 80851 times)