Topic: 74 CB750 Navy Style

[dhall57]

First time checking out your project thread Harsh. You would never know it's the same bike, great work. Can't wait to see the finished bike. I'm about 4 hours away from you in Greensboro, NC. I also have a couple collapsed disc in my neck that causes me problems and pain at times. I visit the chiropractor regularly which helps quite a bit. Congrads on the promotion, I've got a brother-in-law who retired from the Navy several years ago at rank of admiral and graduated from the naval academy in the early 70's.

Good luck with the rest of the build,
dhall

[Harsh]

I received my gauge overlays the other day so I put them together this afternoon.  I am pretty happy with how they turned out.  It is hard to tell, but I powder coated the upper half of the outside shell in the gunmetal and the needles are the same color as the blue on the rest of the bike.

[maduncle]

Oh they are sweet!

Now if you could make her left keg into the tacho needle...

... Or would that be making the tacho too tacky?

[Harsh]

That would be pretty funny if I could make the needle her leg, but I don;'t have those kind of skills.

Farted around a little bit today mounting a few things and checking voltages through the wiring.  I thought something was seriously wrong with the wiring.  I was reading voltage where I shouldn't have been and no voltage where i should have.  I took apart a couple of things then realized that I where I was reading on the fuse block where I expected power was the spare fuse and where I was reading voltage that I didn't think there should be any was the main power from the battery.  I am such a dumbass at times, but I would rather go through the little things now than have a meltdown when everything comes together.

The rear fender isn't staying.  I am just using it for some mockups underneath the seatpan.  I also need to figure out a support for the exhaust.  The slip on portion of the exhaust is beat up so I will need to source another one.

[RAFster122s]

Are those LED Halos in the shell?
How deep did you anchor them?

The indicator lamps need to stay with normal bulbs or you can run into trouble with your blinkers not cycling properly.
Also remember reading where someone had an oil pressure light waning in a hot engine and the LEDs would glow softly in a pulsating manner, a bit concerning...

[maduncle]

Is that a Roc city roadster seat?

If so, I am running the same one on my CB450.

Mind you - I cut two inches out of the front of mine since it is on a smaller bike. Works well with a bit of fender under it.

[Harsh]

RAF...yes those are LED rings in the gauges.  There are a couple of different ways to mount them.  You can set them on the bottom of the bucket or on the stantions.  I tried both ways and found that I liked the stantions better.  With them on the bottom some of the light was blocked by the stantions and you could see their outline on the gauges.  I used some silicone sealant to adhere them to the stantions.  I got the idea from this thread:  http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67321.0

I will be running an LED signals and will be using an flasher relay to make them work correctly.


maduncle...The seatpan is made by a member here (Whiteorbs).  Yes it resembles the Roc City one.  I really appreciate your pic.  I have been trying to figure out what I want to do for a brake light for about two weeks now.  I have thought about one like yours, but haven't found a good picture until now.  How did you attach your seatpan to the frame?  I have an idea running thorugh my head, but I am not sure if it will work the way I am hoping.

[maduncle]

Harsh,

I had two metal straps welded ascross the frame rails where i wanted to mount the seat and installed nutserts in the straps for boltin the seat on.

I then glued a panel of plywood under the flat of the seat pan, and drilled four holes through the pan to line up with the four nutserts. I countersunk these four holes so my c/sunk bolts would do up flush in the pan.

My upholstery will be held on the pan with high strength Velcro so I can peel it off to get at the seat bolts if required.

I can put a couple of photos up here for you if you like.

[Harsh]

Yah...if you could throw up a few pics that would be great.  I had sort of the same idea, but yours might be simpler/better.

[RAFster122s]

Bwaller put a tubular cross brace on his racer frame then a couple thick hooks fashioned to lock into that that are bolted to the bottom of the seat pan, then one bolt in the front secures the seat and the rear of the tank.


Post 22 he shows the moly tube and hooks for the seat pan...
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?action=post;quote=947684;topic=83871.0;last_msg=1330397

[Harsh]

What I was thinking about doing since my frame is already powdercoated was a system sort of like Legendary Motorcycles has.  There is a local guy (sells on ebay under username hman16) that I have bought scrap pieces of delrin from before so the cost wouldn't be that much.  DCC has a write up of how to install the Legendary setup.

http://www.dimecitycycles.com/dccdiatribe/2011/12/dcc-tech-tip-installing-a-cafe-racer-seat-no-welding/

[maduncle]

I took some photos of my seat mounting set up for you this evening.





The frame, showing the two metal straps and the four mounting bolts for the pan.





The seat pan bolted in place.





Underside of the seat pan, showing the piece of wood glued in place and the four mounting holes.

As stated, plan is to velcro the seat pad on so I can remove it to get to the bolts.

Next time I do a custom seat, I am going to use the original hinge and lock mechanism!

[Harsh]

Thanks for the pics.  That helps me visualize what I need to do.

I think I finally found a tail/brake light.  I have been searching for a while now.  I found some I liked, but the cost prohibited me from buying them.  I am sorry, but $60 plus dollars for a simple light is retarded.  The one I found was at a car place called Factory Five Racing.  It goes on a 65 Ford Coupe.  http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/coupe-tail-brake-light/.  It is still more than I think it should cost, but I am happy with it.

[racinchase]

I received my gauge overlays the other day so I put them together this afternoon.  I am pretty happy with how they turned out.  It is hard to tell, but I powder coated the upper half of the outside shell in the gunmetal and the needles are the same color as the blue on the rest of the bike.





Awesome!!!!!!!!!!!

[Harsh]

UGHH

Going through wiring issues.  I bought a new harness from CB750 supply for my year model bike because the PO cut and hacked the old one to death.  However, the new harness has 20 wires coming out of the main bundle at the front where my old harness only had 16.  Four of those wires have a piece of white heat shrink at the end of them next to the connector.  Orange, light blue, and two brown with a red tracer.  What the hell does that mean?  With everything hooked up the only lights I get to come on are the neutral and oil pressure lights on the idiot gauge.

To add to my frustration I am not using the stock handlebar switches, but a set from an 07 Triumph Daytona 675.  I figured out which colored wires controlled what on the Triumph and matched them to their respective wire on the CB.  I jumpered the headlight on/off switch on the right hand control so it would supply power all of the time, but that did nothing different.  I even hooked up an old switch that I have but nothing changed again.

I read something a while back that Hondaman posted about having to jumper a couple of wires on the Parts N Go harness (possibly Emgo), but I need to find it again to see what he was talking about.

[RAFster122s]

The orange and blue with white shrinkwrap...are they for the turn signals?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Great gauges!  The pin-ups add a great vintage feel.

[Harsh]

The orange and blue with white shrinkwrap...are they for the turn signals?

I don't think so.  The ones with the heashrink accept two male wires.  There are other orange and blue connectors that accept 3 male wires.  I need to go ohm them out again to see where they go.

I found the links I was looking for earlier.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=110411.0
and
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=110284.0

[Harsh]

I think I figured out the blue and orange wires with the white heatshrink.  I think they are the left and  right running lights.

I jumpered like the two articles stated (and swapped the 5/7 amp fuses) and jumpered what would be the stock headlight on/off switch and things cam to life a bit.  The headlight turned on and switched between hi/lo.  When I thumbed the start switch I could hear the solenoid click.  So for right now I think I may have this licked.

[rb550four]

Harsh, I was checking on your build then wondered how long it's been going , it's a year today!
 You guys that can do the long builds, what patience! I start going ape #$%* around the fifth week, I need to get it done.
  Congrats on the first year anniversary , and having abundant patience, and it's coming out nicely.

[Harsh]

Wow...I never thought to check when I started the build.  Thanks for the compliments.  Although, while I started the thread on this day one year ago, I actually started the build process on the 29th of Sep 2011.  I would contribute the lengthy build to the availability of money and the time to work on it.  Trust me I would really like to have this thing finished on on the road.  I am getting there and can almost see the finish line, but know I still have a lot of work left.  Speaking of money hopefully my tax return comes soon so I can try and get a good chunk of it for the bike 

[calikid]

How'd you clean the surface of the engine so they seal and are smooth?

[swingerofbirches]

Great build thread! Subscribed!

[Harsh]

How'd you clean the surface of the engine so they seal and are smooth?

Are you referring to the mating surfaces of the case halves?  If so I just used some acetone, a rag, and some elbow grease.  It actually doesn't take a lot of rubbing.  I just took my time and made sure I cleaned every piece that would touch.  The hard part was cleaning them again after I painted the case halves to get rid of any residual glue left from the tape.  That took a decent amount of patience to make sure I only wiped the mating surfaces and not the freshly painted cases.

Now if you are talking about the rest of the engine...I bead blasted that.  However, I taped off the mating and bearing surfaces prior to to make sure I didn't inadvertently cause damage to them.

[flybox1]

Nice build and thread.  Just starting my F3 engine rebuild project. 
Like your work.  Subscribed...