Author Topic: What style extractor works best? First timer! (Read 3678 times)

markreimer · « **on:** February 17, 2012, 02:56:31 PM »

Last night I was replacing the bolts on my k4 engine with a SS hex-head bolt kit. I made it to the last two bolts, both on the clutch cover, and the heads stripped. I tried using a dremel to cut a slot for a flat screwdriver, but the metal was just too soft. I've heard people suggest reverse drill bits, extractors (spiral and splined), and I don't know what to try. I'm going to buy extractors and reverse bits after work today, but I don't know what style extractor to get.

Has anyone tried both? What works better, spiral or splined extractors? Again, it's for a clutch cover bolt, which is a M6 bolt. Thanks, wish me luck...

markb · « **Reply #1 on:** February 17, 2012, 03:17:21 PM »

Since the screw is already messed up, just use a 6mm drill to remove the head. When you get to the threaded portion the head will break off. Then you can remove the cover and remove the screw with a pliers or vice grips. My rule is if you can't get it out it won't come out with an extractor. I never use them.

markreimer · « **Reply #2 on:** February 17, 2012, 03:19:28 PM »

Quote from: markb on February 17, 2012, 03:17:21 PM

Since the screw is already messed up, just use a 6mm drill to remove the head. When you get to the threaded portion the head will break off. Then you can remove the cover and remove the screw with a pliers or vice grips. My rule is if you can't get it out it won't come out with an extractor. I never use them.

Could I effectively not try both? Use an extractor, if it fails, I can still pull the cover off and try with vice grips? I never thought of that regardless, so thanks for giving me another option!

markb · « **Reply #3 on:** February 17, 2012, 03:36:58 PM »

If you mean drill the head off and then use the extractor, yes you could still do both. But if you drill a hole and don't remove the head and use the extractor and it breaks off, ruh roh.

CycleRanger · « **Reply #4 on:** February 17, 2012, 03:51:33 PM »

Even if you can manage to drill a hole down the center of that 6mm screw I'd bet money that that the extractor would break.
The extractors just don't work that well for screws that small.
Better to remove the cover and use the vise grips.

Steve_K · « **Reply #5 on:** February 17, 2012, 04:28:39 PM »

CycleRanger said remove the cover and then vise grip it out.++ If that fails, try to to avoid EZ outs. Sears sells a tool that runs in reverse(counter clock wise). You drill it and then use the opposite end and spin it out. Be sure to be inline with the screw. I have used it successfully in a machine shop. EZouts can give heart burn.
Steve

ekpent · « **Reply #6 on:** February 17, 2012, 04:30:29 PM »

Quote from: markb on February 17, 2012, 03:17:21 PM

Since the screw is already messed up, just use a 6mm drill to remove the head. When you get to the threaded portion the head will break off. Then you can remove the cover and remove the screw with a pliers or vice grips. My rule is if you can't get it out it won't come out with an extractor. I never use them.

Mark has worked on some really messed up screws on his Sandcast projects so he can say been there, done that,probably to much, and his advice on drilling off the head,taking off the cover and dealing with it is spot on.

markb · « **Reply #7 on:** February 17, 2012, 04:37:11 PM »

Maybe this is obvious but you need a good, sharp drill. And getting it in the center is important. Usually thats not a problem with the cross screws because once they're buggered up the drill starts pretty good. Good luck.

Elniniomuchachos · « **Reply #8 on:** February 17, 2012, 04:42:08 PM »

I'm with everyone else on this one. Just get the head of the bolt off then slide the cover over and remove the bolt with vice grips. I've had to do this numerous times...

72500john · « **Reply #9 on:** February 17, 2012, 04:50:24 PM »

if you are going to drill the screw head for using an extractor. find a left hand drill bit (yes they exist) 9 times out of ten the drilling action will loosen the screw.

Glenn Stauffer · « **Reply #10 on:** February 17, 2012, 04:51:53 PM »

I was recently removing the head on a 4 cylinder Honda auto engine and two of the nuts for the exhaust manifold rounded off. They were under the manifold and terribly difficult to get to, so vice grips and everything else I could think of wouldn't work. I bought a set of these:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc-damaged-bolt-nut-remover-set-low-profile/p-00952166000P

Getting the two rusted and rounded off exhaust bolts off with these was a breeze.

markreimer · « **Reply #11 on:** February 17, 2012, 10:35:58 PM »

Can't believe my luck. I bought some extractors from CDN tire, shelled out $50 for two different styles. Came home and before I bit the bullet I tried my new impact driver after using a Dremel to cut an even deeper slot. The first bolt came out on the second hit, the other bolt took some more persuasion and second slot cut into the remains, but they both came out. Success! Looks like I made it one more day without having to try extractors.

Patrick · « **Reply #12 on:** February 17, 2012, 11:13:39 PM »

Extractors are designed to put a plug of the hardest material known to man in the middle of an already stripped bolt rendering it undrillable and making the bolt a permanent irremovable feature of whatever part the bolt is in. #$%* extractors. They are the devil's work.
Patrick

grcamna2 · « **Reply #13 on:** February 18, 2012, 01:26:41 AM »

Quote from: CycleRanger on February 17, 2012, 03:51:33 PM

Even if you can manage to drill a hole down the center of that 6mm screw I'd bet money that that the extractor would break.
The extractors just don't work that well for screws that small.
Better to remove the cover and use the vise grips.

+1...I'm going to try what Steve_K recommended with those Special reverse drill extractors,you'll need a strong variable speed drill, possibly 1/2" drive that has reverse.There are 6mm exhaust flange bolts that get frozen lot's of times and we need a way to remove them...,if we can get to them

w/o removing the entire cylinder head that is;some times they are just too badly seized in.I have heard good things about those Special reverse removal drill tool kits that Steve_K mentioned...and I'm going to get some of them...Easy Out's are difficult..,especially the spiral ones;I have used the square ones with"some" success in the past.....

I'm also going to get a few of the correct size Left Hand drill bits that will work for 6mm studs such as 72500john has recommended.

I've had the best results with extractors when I was able to drill straightly all the way through to the bottom of the broken stud(sometimes it's just not possible

)and that sort of relieves the "stress"...and then I'd just keep shooting PBBlaster into that hole for maybe..a few days,and then give it more patient persuasion;the hardest part for me is the "patient persuasion"!

Lostboy Steve · « **Reply #14 on:** February 18, 2012, 05:01:27 AM »

Quote from: Patrick on February 17, 2012, 11:13:39 PM

Extractors are designed to put a plug of the hardest material known to man in the middle of an already stripped bolt rendering it undrillable and making the bolt a permanent irremovable feature of whatever part the bolt is in. #$%* extractors. They are the devil's work.
Patrick

lol +1 just drill and tap or helicoil. And whatever you do don't snap a drill-bit. Go easy with a lot of cutting oil, and make sure you're centered.

70CB750 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 18, 2012, 05:33:55 AM »

The best way to deal with broken bolts is EDM machine. The tool factory i worked at had one dedicated to this purpose. Aluminum pressure casting sees a lot of stuck bolts in dies.
It cuts out the core of the bolt and leaves behind something like a helicoil and the precission is way better than drilling.
Anyway extractors never worked for me and i no longer try to use them either.

754 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 18, 2012, 08:28:24 AM »

A few words of caution;

When the fastener does start to move, dont go past 1/4 turn.. before this. Work it back and forth, give it a chance to shear off any built up material. Then go another 1/4 turn, repeat. Do this till the fastener turns easily, then remove..

CycleRanger · « **Reply #17 on:** February 18, 2012, 09:17:02 AM »

Quote from: Patrick on February 17, 2012, 11:13:39 PM

Extractors are designed to put a plug of the hardest material known to man in the middle of an already stripped bolt rendering it undrillable and making the bolt a permanent irremovable feature of whatever part the bolt is in. #$%* extractors. They are the devil's work.
Patrick

That's it, don't hold back, tell us how you really feel!

Heh, yeah, I broke one off trying to extract a broken bolt from a stay plate.
Had to take it to the machine shop at work. Bless those guys! They have all the cool tools.
That's why I avoid extractors for small screws and bolts now.

markreimer · « **Reply #18 on:** February 18, 2012, 09:48:52 AM »

Hah my Dad was talking about EDM too, being a machining buff. Thankfully these buggers came out with some with some heavy pounding.

70CB750 · « **Reply #19 on:** February 18, 2012, 11:07:11 AM »

Quote from: markreimer on February 18, 2012, 09:48:52 AM

Hah my Dad was talking about EDM too, being a machining buff. Thankfully these buggers came out with some with some heavy pounding.

Cool!

Stev-o · « **Reply #20 on:** February 18, 2012, 03:16:04 PM »

Ok, switch gears: what about a broken bleeder screw in a caliper.

I've used extractors before, not on calipers, with mixed results. I'm tempted to try it since I now have a couple extra calipers laying around.

What other method is recommended?

Patrick · « **Reply #21 on:** February 18, 2012, 03:37:09 PM »

Left handed drill bit (Harbor Freight, about $6). With any luck it will crack it free. If not, it will get easier as the walls of the bleeder screw get thinner as you step up in size with the bits. It would be especially easy on a bleeder since you would not need to worry about centering the bit or drilling straight. You already have a pilot hole.

Patrick

754 · « **Reply #22 on:** February 18, 2012, 09:11:41 PM »

You know you are getting old.....................if trhe title says extractor, and you wonder...??

..if they are talking about a 4into 1...

If you can weld a nut or keystock on the bleeder it should come out..remember to work it back-n-forth when it starts turning..

Eddie · « **Reply #23 on:** February 19, 2012, 05:29:33 AM »

I've use the drill type extractors on the clutch cover screws with much success, Got the Craftsman ones. Used a ele drill....came right out.

70CB750 · « **Reply #24 on:** February 19, 2012, 07:06:50 AM »

Quote from: Stev-o on February 18, 2012, 03:16:04 PM

Ok, switch gears: what about a broken bleeder screw in a caliper.

I've used extractors before, not on calipers, with mixed results. I'm tempted to try it since I now have a couple extra calipers laying around.

What other method is recommended?

Would not hurt to heat it up to break the oxids in the thread.

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Author Topic: What style extractor works best? First timer! (Read 3678 times)

72500john