Topic: cb500 clutch part picture wanted

[jakecb420]

i am looking for a picture of part #6 in the diagram.  i just acquired a 73 cb500 that it looks as though someone "fixed" the clutch by leaving that part out completely.  i am currently lookiing for that piece but in the mean time, i pilfered a similiar looking but different part numbered piece from my 74 cb450.  however, i cant get this clutch to feel right, so i am thinking that the problem might be with the difference in the parts.  i would like to see what the real part is supposed to look like. i have also seen by searching on the forum that these clutches on these bikes are kinda fickle.  thanks.

[bryanj]

ER what diagram?

[jakecb420]

oh yeah.......that would probably help.

[dave500]

if the clutch dosent feel right and the "wrong"fork clamp jigger is holding the adjuster fast remove the push rod and check its not broken?it might even be worth pulling the clutch itself apart just to check its not missing any spacers/shims/parts perhaps?

[jakecb420]

thanks dave, the rod is still intact, amazingly all the parts on the adjuster side of things are in what looks like good shape(atleast the ones that were still in there).  i have read about a few different problems that can happen. i may just have to keep trying to adjust it. 

when i first put the "wrong" clamp in, the clutch pedal kinda felt ok, a little stiff but not too bad, i took the bike around the block and it seemed to shift fine, however, by the end of the scoot, it didnt feel quite as good, a little slipping perhaps. 

definately a possiblity that i will have to disassemble to inspect, but i will probably try to get the right clamp before i do that.

also, i have found that parts are definately not as plentiful for the 500 as they are for the 750s that i am used to. 

[72500john]

if you get totally stuck and cannot find one i have a few spares. do a search here on cb500 clutch and you will get alot of good info on how it works.

[Bodi]

All that part does is lock the clutch actuating ramp/cam/whatever in place so it doesn't rotate in use. If yours does that, it should be OK. There's nothing in there that I can think of for a slightly different one to interfere with.

[bryanj]

If it worked ok at first then it ain't that locking part that is the problem

[jakecb420]

thanks for all the advice.  i think that fork clamp from the cb450 will suffice for now then.

  it must be me not fully understanding how to adjust the clutch.   when i adjust it at the mechanism, i go by the clymer book....loosen lock bolt, turn the adjuster until slight resistance is felt then back it off 1/8 turn.  am i missing anything? when i do this, i disconnected the clutch cable at the handlebars. 

i have disassambled the mechanism, cleaned and relubricated it all, the steel ball bearing is still there also.

[dave500]

back the cable off first,then do the adjustment,you might have it adjusted ok but still slip slightly?if the clutch basket has too much end float it can be awkward to get the clutch adjusted as per the book.

[bryanj]

NOT 1/8 turn but 1/8 inch measured at the outer edge

[jakecb420]

thank you dave and bryan for the input, i have tried adjusting it again to no avail.

i was cleaning some more old grime off the bike and discovered some sort of goo around the enge of the clutch cover.  maybe indian head shellac or something of that nature. somebody was in there at somepoint.  i will probably take it apart and measure and clean the clutch discs.  we will see how it goes.

[dave500]

have you got the manual?id look to see that the clutch pack and its spacers and bushes etc are installed correctly and not missing,clean the steel discs up well.

[jakecb420]

dave, yes i downloaded the manual off the website here, and i also have a clymer book.  that is my plan to tear into it, i thought i could avoid it, but thats not the case.  i will probably order a gasket tonite.  i will be sure to post if i find any irregularities along the way.

i read the manual and didnt see any notes about any special tools, is that the case here? also, what should i use to clean the clutch parts with? i was thinking kerosene.

[bryanj]

Impact screwdriver and cirlip pliers on top of 10mm socket with something to turn it is all you need (after thr kickstart and footrest is off that is!!

[dave500]

kerosine is my cleaner of choice,the external circlip pliers are the only sort of special tool youl need as bryanj pointed out,before you remove the circlip check the baskets end float by pulling on it in and out.

[jakecb420]

thanks again for the info fellas.  the tools i definately have so that wont be a problem.

how often is the end play out of specs.  im sure it happens but can i count on it having to much play?

[dave500]

it can be slightly over specs and be ok,,if its obviously sloppy itll need shims,which are discontinued but you could make something up easy enough.

[jakecb420]

well, i got the clutch apart.  nothing looks too out of the ordinary.  i did feel kinda noticable slop in the end play. maybe a kingpin shim from an older ford truck will work as an added spacer.  we'll see. 

the clutch discs measured pretty consistantly at .106 inches.  that is a little under spec but for now i will just use them unless i can be convinced otherwise,

the springs measure in at 1.40 inches.  those will be ok too i suspect.

the steel plates i did not check for warpedness yet. but i will.  what is best way to deglaze those, maybe a red scotchbrite pad?

[dave500]

i sandblast the steels,anything like emery paper will do,look at the steels closely and youll see how they are stamped out leaving a sharper edge on one side and a somewhat rounded off one on the other?stack them all the same way when its reinstalled,this keeps their sort of grain the same way.

i wonder what they did with the dumps(the middle wasted part) from the stamping?they would make excellent ninja star knives!