Author Topic: CB550F Wiring Issue (Read 4150 times)

JoshuaJames · « **on:** March 04, 2012, 10:12:26 AM »

Hi,

I was attempting to finish up wiring on my 1976 Cb550 F yesterday, when i ran into a couple issues.

1. the taillight will not stay on, no running tail light
2. there are two "brown and blue" female connectors where the controls connect. not sure what these are supposed to connect to.
a. one of the BR/b wires has 12v, the other has nothing.

Bit of info: running aftermarket controls. we have tested the hi lo switch, kill switch, starter, and turn signals, they all work fine. No flashing on the turn signals, but i have not installed the electronic flasher relay yet.

not sure what else to post, hopefully someone can point me in the right direction. see photos for the two brown and blue wires.

anyone know where i can get the junction box for under the gas tank?

stereosilence · « **Reply #1 on:** March 04, 2012, 08:25:45 PM »

I am almost done redoing the electricals on my '75 550. It's been a trip.

I am looking at the schematic for the '77 CB550 and it has the Brown and Blue wires as the turn signal buzzer. Depending on which ends are male and female, one may take a male from the signal switch and one may take a male from the buzzer (the schematic shows two interconnects). When you turn on the turn signal, it connects Br/B with orange with completes the path to ground through the turn signals. Thus, it should buzz each time the signal flashes on. Therefore, the Br/B that has 12 V should be the one coming from the buzzer. However, on the schematic, it also looks like there is a Br/B coming from the tail light fuse. It looks mislabeled as one end says Br/B and one says Bk. So, that could be part of your taillight problem.

Check your tail light to make sure you have the correct bulb. It should have two filaments. If one is broken or if it only has one filament, you will not get two intensities of light. There should be three wires: Brown, Green/Yellow, and Green. When the key is on, Brown should have some voltage, Green should be grounded to the frame, and Green/Yellow should have voltage when you press down on either brake. So, checks those things out and start tracing the problem backward.

JoshuaJames · « **Reply #2 on:** March 05, 2012, 10:23:48 AM »

thanks for the advice.

I will take a look tonight and see if i can figure it out with your tips.

do you have a build thread going, any photos of your electrical?

thanks,

stereosilence · « **Reply #3 on:** March 06, 2012, 06:25:50 AM »

I don't but I should probably start one...

The electrical stuff is really the first thing I have done.

JoshuaJames · « **Reply #4 on:** March 06, 2012, 02:14:09 PM »

keep us posted.

JoshuaJames · « **Reply #5 on:** March 07, 2012, 09:10:23 AM »

alright, 2 steps forward, one step back.

1. Taillight is now fully functional. dim regular, light sup when i hit the brake.
2. I am getting twelve votes at the all three fuses.

However, now when i hit the left or right turn signals, both sets of signals come on. if i turn on the high beam, the signals come on as well. I also installed a new 3 prong electronic relay, and i am still not getting any flash. wired this way P-ground, X - Black, L - Grey.

lastly. i have no clutch switch, will having this red and green female connector left open make a difference?

stereosilence · « **Reply #6 on:** March 07, 2012, 07:38:59 PM »

I would start with the headlight. The turn signals shouldn't be connected to the headlight at all. Only blue, white and green should be connected to the headlight. Green is always ground. Find the blue and white wires coming from the handle bar. When the switch is set to high beam, the blue wire should get 12 V. When lo beam, the white wire should get 12V.

Are you using the stock turn signals or LED ones? I would make sure the turn signals are lighting up when the switch is in the correct position before you work on making it flash.

As to the clutch, I think it might keep your electric starter from working.

You should be able to get a J-Box at radio shack or an electronics store.

JoshuaJames · « **Reply #7 on:** March 08, 2012, 09:10:53 AM »

Headlight works fine.

not using stock turn signals, using LEDs. i have in line resistors and an electronic flasher relay.

using aftermarket controls.

Does it matter where each ground goes?

messeduptriple · « **Reply #8 on:** March 08, 2012, 09:18:06 AM »

Good info.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

stereosilence · « **Reply #9 on:** March 08, 2012, 10:29:02 AM »

Somehow you have the signals wired to the headlight. Make sure the headlight has only the blue white and green wires. The signals should have others. You should probably check your controls to make sure you know which wires get connected depending on switch position.

All the grounds should end up being connected to ground (the frame) if ever you aren't sure, use the continuity mode of the muiltmeter to test green to the frame.

Accolay · « **Reply #10 on:** March 08, 2012, 10:04:55 PM »

For your tail light problem, is your fuse box melted? You might want to take it off and look at the back side to make sure.

JoshuaJames · « **Reply #11 on:** March 09, 2012, 07:07:10 AM »

I am getting only 6v at my turn signals, any ideas why? could this have something to do with the electronic flasher?

also, fuse box is fine. I actually bought the honda man blade type fuse box (and have three spares).

JoshuaJames · « **Reply #12 on:** March 09, 2012, 05:28:29 PM »

update:

With standard flasher relay in, all the lights work, every one. just no flashing (using LED signals). When i install a 3 prong electronic flasher relay, it screws everything up. When i install a 2 prong flasher relay, the turn signals are not working correctly. i will get one flash out of one side, and none from the other. i am getting 6 volts at each signal, but still no light.

whats next?

stereosilence · « **Reply #13 on:** March 10, 2012, 09:57:25 AM »

Did you double check the schematic to make sure everything is wired right?

JoshuaJames · « **Reply #14 on:** March 10, 2012, 10:31:21 AM »

Yes, I have double and triple checked. When I put the original relay in, everything works, but no flashing. This should be confirmation that the wiring is correct. Not to mention the blown up and laminated copy of the wiring diagram , broken down by system, and the link proved above for the interactive systems.

The only variable that I notice is the relay, or perhaps the LEDs...

JoshuaJames · « **Reply #15 on:** March 10, 2012, 02:42:04 PM »

So, the entire system appears to be connected correctly. with the regular signal relay in, i am getting 12 volts everywhere, and all the switches work (but do not flash).

When i install the new 12v electronic flasher (i have two new ones, neither works, so i know it is not the product), i only get 6 volts at the wire going to the signal. I am getting 12 out of the flasher, 12 into the left hand controls, 12 out of the controls to the signal. wire then hits a y-tube for the idiot light and the turn signal. i get 12 here, and then it appears as if each light (turn and idiot) is pulling 6v.

is this correct?

i disconnected the idiot panel to see if that would help. it allowed 12 v to get through to the turn signal, which then came on, but no flashing.

JoshuaJames · « **Reply #16 on:** March 11, 2012, 02:43:50 PM »

new update:

Incandescent bulb flashes with the new relay (not the old ones), still nothing with the LED.

here is a photo of the flasher relays i have. Any ideas?

stereosilence · « **Reply #17 on:** March 12, 2012, 10:33:35 AM »

If you only get 6V at the V+ of the LEDs, they probably won't turn on. I don't really know how electronic flashers work, but you might read up on that and see if you can figure out what is going on. If I remember right, the old flasher won't work because of the impedance of the LEDs.

One thing to try is to try to remove the signal and flasher from the system and see if you can get them to work solo.

JoshuaJames · « **Reply #18 on:** March 12, 2012, 10:53:22 AM »

thanks stereosilence. i am getting 12 everywhere, i have read everything on this form pertaining to this issue, but no solution.

the only thing left, would be to test the flasher outside of the bike.

Does anyone know how i could do that?

stereosilence · « **Reply #19 on:** March 12, 2012, 11:33:44 AM »

Try this before you continue:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=14946.0

I put my money on it being a current issue due to the load. I bet if you put some resistance in serious it will work.

JoshuaJames · « **Reply #20 on:** March 12, 2012, 12:21:01 PM »

i have one of those flashers, no luck.

New update, if i install an incandescent bulb on either side (one LED and one Reg) everything flasher beautifully. (on that side). Two LEDs is a no go, even when both have in line resistors....

if the flasher works with the incandescent, does that mean it is functional? just wondering if a 6th flasher may cure what ales me....

LesterPiglet · « **Reply #21 on:** March 12, 2012, 12:27:01 PM »

I think I read somewhere you can only have 2 led's due to the 550's weak charging system. I may be wrong.

stereosilence · « **Reply #22 on:** March 12, 2012, 12:45:13 PM »

No, it isn't the charging system. LEDs use less current than incandescent.

From the linked post:
"Electronic 2-prong flashers use an electronic circuit to control a relay, this gives a more consistent flash rate. They still need fairly high lamp current to operate. They usually work OK if you have one normal lamp and one LED signal. They will not work with both front and back using LED lamps. There are 2 types of 3-terminal flashers. One type has no ground connection; there is a power terminal, a signal terminal, and a pilot terminal for the dashboard signal indicator. This type is no improvement over the 2-terminal one for LED use, it just has 2 outputs.
The type we want has ground, power, and signal terminals. The power to make it flash is independent of the lamp power draw. Most SOHC4 bikes have a loose green ground wire hanging beside the flasher, this is perfect for connecting a 3-terminal flasher.
Looking at a rack of flashers at your local Pep Boys it's hard to tell which 3-terminal flasher is the right grounded type and which is the other type which will just blow a fuse if you try connecting it with a ground wire. The electronic type is better than the thermal type, it uses less power and has a constant flash rate as it ages.
The easiest way to know you have the right one is to find one with the terminals numbered. These numbers are a JSO or DIN (not sure which) standard, I haven't been able to find a list of what the numbers mean but they are consistent.
You need a flasher with the terminals numbered 31, 49, and 49a. If you see these numbers, you have the right one! Other numbers means it is the wrong type."

Do you have the right one?

JoshuaJames · « **Reply #23 on:** March 12, 2012, 12:51:14 PM »

yes i do. i actually have about 5 different ones, but i do have the 3 prong 31, 49, 49a one, in addition to another 3 prong electronic and 2 prong electronic.

they all work with the incandescent, but not for the LEDS

stereosilence · « **Reply #24 on:** March 12, 2012, 01:23:34 PM »

That is rough. The only other thing I can think of is to try measuring the resistance. Something changes when you have the other incandescent plugged in.

After that, take the signal and flasher off and try it out. You will should hook one flasher lead to ground, one to the LED red wire (LED black wire should be ground too), and then apply a voltage (probably 12V) to the last.

News:

Author Topic: CB550F Wiring Issue (Read 4150 times)