Topic: charging /how do i track it ,id the prob?cb750

[bigreno]

since I've got to work on my bike I've replaced the clutch, plugs ,wires, brakes ,fuel inlet swivel thing, ( now I'm having carb prob #2 intake boot is cracked)that's in the last week. just moved in to a place with a garage .YES!!! so my b-day was the 24 of feb..go to DMV renew my class C, find out Ive had my provisional lic. 4 a year today .long store short last Friday i go to take the test, my bike is missing but i have to make it work. IT starts loading up /well the battery was dying. tomarrow i go 4 my extension so i should have a week to fix  .so if u now about electrical will start there .thanks

[bollingball]

since I've got to work on my bike I've replaced the clutch, plugs ,wires, brakes ,fuel inlet swivel thing, ( now I'm having carb prob #2 intake boot is cracked)that's in the last week. just moved in to a place with a garage .YES!!! so my b-day was the 24 of feb..go to DMV renew my class C, find out Ive had my provisional lic. 4 a year today .long store short last Friday i go to take the test, my bike is missing but i have to make it work. IT starts loading up /well the battery was dying. tomarrow i go 4 my extension so i should have a week to fix  .so if u now about electrical will start there .thanks

Have you downloaded the manual yet? The print is in it. I have a 78 so the wiring is the same. First you need to charge the battery to see if it is any good. If that checks out then we can look into the charging system. After you charge the battery over night disconnected from the bike you want to take it off the charger and let it sit for about 2 hours then measure the voltage it has to be 12.6v or higher When you have done this post the reading or PM me and we will go from there
Ken
ps do you have a F or K model? you may get by with some duct tape on that carb boot untill you find a better fix.

[bollingball]

While charging the battery here is something to read on the charging system test
From FAQ cb750_chris on may 2005

H.   Put the fully charge battery back in the bike and do the full load test again.  A running RPM test cannot be done unless you have a fully charged battery.  If the voltage is above 12V then you can do the RPM test.
I.   Start the engine and lock the throttle when the RPM is above 4000.  If the voltage is between 14V and 15V the system is fine and the battery was to blame.  If not you have more work to do. 

IV.   If @ 4000 RPM the voltage was bellow 14V…
A.   Check for problems. 
1.   Corroded, loose, or mismatched wires.  I.e. orange and green wire plugged in to each other. 
2.   Modified or non-stock systems.
3.   Visibly damaged wire insulation.
B.   Do a system analysis resistance test. 
*.  NOTE 0 resistance = good wire. 
*.  NOTE infinite resistance while grounded to frame = good insulation.  Coils will automatically have resistance.



C.   Resistance testing of regulator wires. 
1.   While the bike is not running disconnect (-) battery lead and Black regulator wire.  Check for 0 resistance between (-) battery wire and Black regulator wire.
2.   Disconnect all regulator leads. 
a.   Test for resistance between I and F poles.  0 resistance is good.  If greater than 0 clean the regulator points. 
b.   Test for resistance between the white wire and ground.  Resistance between 4 and 8 ohms means the field coil is good.
   
V.   Testing the stator yellow leads. 
A.   Test wires 1 and 2, 1 and 3, 3 and 2 for ohm readings.  Less than 1 ohm means the circuit is good.  Greater than 1 ohm means poor connection.  Infinite resistance means that the coil has an open circuit or possibly a bad lead. 
B.   NOTE.  For GL1000 you need to disconnect/remove the permanent magnet rotor before continuing.  Set tester to insulation resistance and calibrate it to 0 to perform a wire insulation test on the stator.  Ground the negative test lead and touch the other lead to each of the three stator wires.  If the resistance is infinite then the coil is ok.  If not then the coil is shorted to ground. 
C.   Test the three stator wires in the harness of the motorcycle.  First disconnect the rectifier.  Set the tester to resistance.  0 resistance means all three wires are fine.  Greater than 0 means the wire is bad. 
D.   Check the wires for bad insulation.  Connect the black tester lead to ground.  Each wire should have infinite resistance.  Greater than infinite resistance means the wire has bad insulation. 

VI.   Check the five leads on the rectifier. 
A.   To perform a forward bias test first connect the red tester lead to the green ground lead. 
B.   With the black tester lead test all three yellow wires. 
C.   Resistance must fall between 5 and 40 ohms. 
D.   To perform a reverse bias test connect the black tester lead to the green ground lead. 
E.   With the red tester lead test all three yellow wire. 
F.   Resistance must be greater than 2000 ohms. 
G.   Connect the black tester wire to the red and white rectifier lead. 
H.   With the red test lead test all three yellow wires. 
I.   All three must have between 5 and 40 ohms. 
J.   Connect the red test wire to the red and white rectifier lead. 
K.   Test all three yellow wires with the black tester lead. 
L.   Resistance must be greater than 2000 ohms. 

VII.   Testing the harness plugs and leads. 
A.   Test each of the plug wires in the circuit for o resistance. 
B.   While the battery and rectifier are disconnected test the red and white harness rectifier wire to the (+) battery lead for 0 resistance. 

VIII.   Regulator bench test. 
A.   Remove regulator cover. 
B.   First check the core gap to be sure it is between .6 and 1mm. 
C.   Next check the points gap to be sure it is between .3 and .6mm.
D.   Clean the points with contact cleaner. 
E.   Note the 350F points gap is not adjustable. 
F.   Test the regulator leads by first placing paper on both sides of the points contacts. 
G.   Test resistance between I and F, then I and E terminals.  Check you manual for model specific resistance readings. 
H.   Test for 0 resistance at regulator points connections.
I.    While the points contact is in the upper position test between I and F. 
J.   While in the lower position test between F and E. 
K.   Note.  Do not file the points or they will quickly pit when used again.
 
IX.   Perform RPM test again.  Be sure all components meet specks before going forward from here. 
A.   Reconnect all components but leave the regulator cover off. 
B.   Start the bike and lock the throttle at 4000 RPM. 
C.   The voltage should read between 14V and 15V. 
D.   If voltage is low unlock the adjuster screw nut and turn the IN. NOTE do not run the screw into the coil winding or short the screw to something else with the screwdriver.   
E.   If voltage is high adjust the screw OUT. 
F.   For the 350F bend the arm up for and increase in voltage or down to decrease. 
G.   Replace the cover and test the voltage again as the cover can have an affect on the field of the coil. 
H.   GO FOR A RIDE!

Ken

[bigreno]

thanks guys it was a bad connection . and its a k series