Topic: I didn't break it this time!

[CafeWild34]

Hello all,
I was on a couple days ago with a broken chain adjuster bolt and got that fixed up but now I have another problem, but I didn't do it this time. I went to remove the front wheel and the first step was to remove the speedometer cable. It is held in by a screw. The screw in mine is completely stripped. Literally there is no cross patern left, unless they made a circle screwdriver I am not aware of. So is my only option to drill out the screw? I really don't want to do that because I have never done it and don't want to mess anything up. So what do I need to do? As always thanks for any help

[Gonzowerke]

The cheapest solution will be a left handed drill bit of the appropriate size, this will bite into the screw head and turn it counter clockwise. Next would be a set of easy outs, a.k.a. extractors. Next would be drilling the screw out, re-tapping one size up, and using a new screw. You can use a little heat to help loosen things, but don't go too crazy, there is a seal on the backside of the drive that keeps dirt and water out. You don't want to destroy that. You can also hold a large screwdriver by the tip, and hit the screw with the handle sharply a few times to help break it loose, if you don't have a plastic faced hammer. Undo the speedo side of the cable and remove the front wheel and get it up on a workbench or table, it will be MUCH easier to do. I had the same issue, and the drill worked for me. I used an allen screw and countersunk washer  to replace it, as i hate the phillips screws Honda used. They used these damn screws so the farm boys on the line wouldn't over-torque the fasteners, according to Honda lore.

[LesterPiglet]

i hate the phillips screws Honda used. They used these damn screws so the farm boys on the line wouldn't over-torque the fasteners, according to Honda lore.

They are actually J.I.S screws, (Japanese Industrial standard), that's why they all get chewed.

[Markcb750]

Here is a little bit about JIS screws.  The bit about finding JIS drivers at hobby shops is interesting.  (Pun intended )

http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-Phillips-is-not-a-Phillips/step10/JIS-Japanese-Industrial-Standard/

[seanbarney41]

Maybe try cutting a slot with a hacksaw/file or one of those tiny dremel cut off wheels and use a flat head in a impact driver...you have tried an impact driver, right?

[Dimitri13]

I don't remember how much accessibility there is, but did you try vice grips?

[LesterPiglet]

This is a countersunk screw. I vaguely remember cutting a slot in mine and using (carefully) an impact driver.

[madmtnmotors]

I would try cutting a slot with a dremel cut-off wheel first and try a slotted screwdriver. Left-hand bit would be my next step, along with the heat generated from drilling, they will usually grab/bite into the metal and spin the screw right out. Start with an 1/8" bit, then a 3/16". Drill the 1/8" hole a little deeper than the 3/16" (not too deep) so you have a centering hole if the head comes off before the screw comes out. The countersunk portion of the screw head is typically where the "froze-up" condition exists, so the closer you get to drilling the head off, the closer you are to freeing up the screw. Drill a little with the 1/8", then a little with the 3/16", then a little with the 1/8", then a little with the 3/16", and so on. The reverse bits are the key here (drill in reverse) and they can be found at harbor frieght/Northern tool, etc. Bring your patience, I have not had one of these beat me yet. It's often easier to remove the speedo sender from the wheel (just disconnect the cable from the speedometer) so you can get it in a vise (not too tight!). Bring your patience! 

[bollingball]

Hello all,
I was on a couple days ago with a broken chain adjuster bolt and got that fixed up

Could you share what it was you did to fix it ?

[ekpent]

Those speedo screws are quite punky and can be a real problem. On the two bad ones I have had to deal with I ended up using a small sharp CHISEL and after getting some 'grip' with it on the edge was able to hammer the edge around enough to loosen it and then remove. Try that before you totall pooch the head with a drill bit.

[knowsnothing]

Maybe try cutting a slot with a hacksaw/file or one of those tiny dremel cut off wheels and use a flat head in a impact driver...you have tried an impact driver, right?

+1  I have had to do this a few times and it worked every time. 

[MCRider]

You can generally turn those out with the mechanics trick: a small 1/4 inch chisel. Set the point of the chisel in the outer edge of the screw and tap in a counterclockwise direction. That will usually get it. The chisel will dig into the head of the screw, but its ruined anyway.

[CafeWild34]

Awesome thanks for all the help! I will probably try the Dremell and the impact driver first because those are the tools I have. If that doesn't work I'll have to make a run to the store to try the other methods so hopefully the Dremel works. To fix the broken chain adjuster bolts I just bought some bolts of the same size and made my own point. Thanks again

[ekpent]

That dremel cut may also make a good impact point for the chisel if you need to go that route.

[I Zombie]

If you can weld a small nut to it & replace the screw once you get it out.

[CafeWild34]

Dremel trick worked great took less than five minutes and the screw is out. Thanks for all the help. While I am here I was wondering If I should upgrade the master cylinder and caliper? I've been thinking of getting a new master cylinder, one of the slim rectangle ones, just for looks. But lately I've been thinking if I do that I might as well upgrade the caliper. Is there any bolt on from a dual disk setup? My forks look like they are made to have a dual disk anyway, they have the same mounting holes on each fork. Thanks