Topic: How do you keep from melting your clutch cable?!? CB750F

[Tugboat]

Ugh... BRAND NEW Motion Pro -3" clutch cable just melted against my pipes. Again. The cable is the perfect length for the "euro" bars that I have on the bike, being pulled fully tight when turned all the way left. When you turn all the way right though - and maybe not even all the way - it pushes out against the pipes. I've tried zip-tying it tight to the frame but that makes it bunch up between the frame and the neck. Most recently I used some of those velcro cable wraps (for guitar cables and whatnot) and loosely had it strapped to the frame; but just now while sitting in traffic the heat from the pipes melted the velcro and now I have another melted clutch cable. Any suggestions?!? I'm tired of replacing these!

[LesterPiglet]

Is it routed properly? I don't know about the 750 but my 550 cable goes over the top of the engine and between the carbs.

[Tugboat]

750 goes thru the top clamp between speedo/tach and down left frame.

[Gonzowerke]

Zip tie it tight against the frame tube, so it won't flop over and touch the pipes, worked for me!

[Shane72]

My only suggestion is to get the next cable an inch or two longer.

It won't need to move as much with the bars then, allowing your zip ties to be a bit more effective at holding it in place.

Good luck,

Shane

[MRieck]

I use the spring metal clamp from an early Z900/KZ1000 part # 92037092

[scottly]

I used to have my cable zip-tied to the frame tube, but it put it into a slight bind. I made a guide for the cable, fastened to the motor mount. I'll try to post a pic tomorrow...

[MCRider]

I had to run mine in front of the instruments, to let it loop out front rather than pushing the slack into the pipes down low. It rubbed a mark on the HLight shell, but it didn't melt.

[bollingball]

I had to run mine in front of the instruments, to let it loop out front rather than pushing the slack into the pipes down low. It rubbed a mark on the HLight shell, but it didn't melt.

I have mine routed the same way and it is zip tied to the bracket at the horn that the tach cable goes through and the triangle motor mount down lower doesn't touch the pipes

                                                Ken

[KB02]

Zip tie it tight against the frame tube, so it won't flop over and touch the pipes, worked for me!

+1

[Rigid]

I use one of the Honda aluminum straps with the plastic covering from the wiring harness under the tank and install it loosely just above the front engine mount.  This allows it to flex and move but not contact the pipe.

[scottly]

Here are a couple of pics of the guide I made; cut it from some thin aluminum, and slipped some heat-shrink tubing over it.