Topic: Look What Happened While Riding!

[steam-powered man]

if the lower fork clamps are free enough to let your forks slide up, the only resistance to twist of your fork tubes are the top clamps and the fender "brace".  you might even be able to grab the front wheel with your knees and twist the bars.  something's amiss.  imho of course!   

[736cc]

Another tip re: forks and trees tightening and alignment:
Tighten the lower tree pinch bolts 1st (leave the top pair loose) then put your wheel at right angles up against a wall. Push up and down on the forks as hard as you can while holding the front brake. Now you can tighten the top tree bolts, as the trees will now be aligned.
Also don't over-tighten the front fender bolts and stays one at a time when re-installing it. Put them all on first just a little snug at first (not too tight), then when everything is on, bounce the front end like earlier described, then torque everything down.
This will allow free slider movement and truer tracking.

[Old Scrambler]

Good advice and you say a replacement tree has arrived..............Mine will hang in the garage for another day.

[754]

 I dont know if I subscribe to those methods plus tightening stem nut first, I think last is better..

 I will throw this out there. I think first the lower tree should be snugged up without wheel on, THEN  slide upper tree on , LOOKING for any binding or drag, while pushing it in place.. this allows you to SEE any misalignment, and catch it and CORRECT it BEFORE continuing..

 This as opposed to blindly assembling it with BINDING components, because someone said that is the trick way to do it..... not saying its bad, just carefull examination while assembling, can go a long way in catching a problem SOONER..rather that later

[Terry in Australia]

well, glad you didn't fall off that's for sure!

am wondering why the lower triple clamp bolts failed to hold the fork tubes in position?  clamping surface is bigger, bolts are stouter (at least on my k6 they are).       

That is an excellent observation. A+  Those lower steel triples do a lot more gripping than the uppers,wonder if the lowers were too loose if that could have added some stress and flexing to the aluminum uppers.

Right, no way the forks would move up if the lower bolts were secured. ..Larry

Correct Larry, if correctly torqued, the bottom clamp wouldn't move.  The bottom triple does most of the clamping work, and the top triple just keeps things straight. I agree that if the bottom bolts were loose, the twisting forces could well have caused the top clamp to break.

Tighten your bottom clamp Andy, or you'll do it again. Cheers, Terry.

[Roach Carver]

This is likely irrellivant but I know on my old bmw the top plate doesnt "clamp" at all. Its just a steel plate that holds the forks in line.

[754]

 I agree with that, what I meant and didnt say is tighten stem , then back off slightly or  back to snug..allowing the tree to move with the slight clearance in hole.. I agree it must be in plane already. When its in thatr position. lower should be loosened on at least one side, then slide the tube out of the top tree, and back up..observing wether it slides in straight or bends slightly siding in ..ie fighting its way in meaning something is out of line, and should then be corrected..