New tapered headstock bearings are well covered on this site on various articles, inclusive of pics.
In answer to your Q. = bearings are easily installed with aid of mallet and suitable sized drift - such as the old bearing casing. There will be a subtle size change from the stock balls...meaning a gap of about 2mm at the fork ear base...unless you do something tricky to sort that out. I didn't, but he gap is not noticeable excet to purist.
Note - the top of the tree doesn't have a deep recess - so the new tapered part sits up proud.
All old bearing parts can be worked out with drift. Putting bearings into freezer and tree into pie warmer may help to install. Get quality bearing grease and use it plenty. Don't be tempted to bash on the new bearing at all.
When tightening up - do the 1st retaining nut up to hand tightness. DON"T crank it up with a socket or wrench. Although...you can crank it down to begin with..just to seat the bearing - but not too hard - pressure on the bearing is not good for it...loosen it back off and retighten by hand...The top chrome nut does all the holding down - torque that one down. Test the bars fall freely form centre point to left and then right. Don't tighten everything up 1st time...as you will likely go back and adjust the locking nut to loosen or tighten some more. I put on a leather glove to tighten..and finally used a hammer and chisel to "tap" another 1/16 turn to get it just right....once I had the bars etc all back on.
Needs to be rechecked after 1st few rides. Likely might need a tighten after 200 miles or so. Easily done without a teardown...just crank up the front offf the ground, remove bar mount and loosen all 4 tree bolts and stem bolt to allow you to TAP the top tree up with a soft mallet to get access to the retaining nut.
Regards
Mark
