Topic: brandEn's K4

[brandEn]

Yea I have a feeling this is gonna be the last build I start for a bit. I have some projects around the house that have been put on the back burner plus there are a few things I would like to change on TAO.

[brandEn]

Here are the specs of my top end courtesy of MRieck.

Head:
Cycle X bronze guides
Cycle X OS (33.5) intake valves
Cycle X standard exhaust valves
Kibblewhite springs
OEM guide seals
OEM retainers
Serdi valve job
Head surfaced .004"

Cylinders:
Cylinder decked .005"
Cylinders bored to .002" clearance
Wiseco 836 piston kit


So that leads me to jetting specs using the stock round top carbs. I am going to use the stock airbox with a K&N filter. I modified the back of the lower section of the airbox with three one inch hole. After all the recent discussions of a modified airbox I am thinking I might be better off just using one that isn't modified.

Here is how I set up my carbs. I think it should be a good starting point. Opinions GREATLY appreciated.

Floats set at 26mm
Needle clip set at one step below the middle clip
Main jets are 128
Air screws one turn out
Idle jet 40





Rebuilt and painted. New stacks.

[madScientist]

When's Isle of Vishon? :-D

It was just a few weeks ago. It's usually the end of August or the first of September.

Next year then.

[brandEn]

Really? Your gonna come out for it?

[madScientist]

Depending on my work schedule absolutely!

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Really? Your gonna come out for it?

Wouldn't that be great. A F'n gathering!

I'm curious about the airbox differences, how they comparatively function and how cutting holes in the different styles actually functions. My airbox (which I NEVER posted a picture of as promised when I saw your's was different) has the intake running below the box and the air enters the front vs your's that enters the rear. I figured by cutting holes in mine at the rear it would provide 'air equalization' all the way around but what do I know!  I want to see how your tuning goes with it that way. Do you have a latter style to try also? 

[brandEn]

Nope this is the only one.  I'm gonna get one that's not drilled and try them both.

[nvr2old]

Thanks everyone. Kinda bummed about where the tips of the stripes ended up, oh well. I still love the way it is all coming together. Pictures just don't do the paint color justice. When its finished I will get some decent pictures of it outside in the daylight.

I noticed the stripes on the first pics of the tank that you posted and was wondering if the seat would cover the tips but didn't want to say anything and sound like a pompous a-hole..  The parts look real nice, though brandEn.  Blue is such a cool color that doesn't get used often enough.  Looking forward to finished pics.  Nicely done, man.

[Stev-o]

No I didn't but thanks!

Hey, just installed my speedo cable and it hits the allen heads on the rotor just slightly..... Any ideas?

Would button heads screws solve the issue?

[Godffery]

No I didn't but thanks!

Hey, just installed my speedo cable and it hits the allen heads on the rotor just slightly..... Any ideas?

Would button heads screws solve the issue?

Actually they are button head allens.
They just barely touch so I have ran them as is without any issues.

[MCRider]

No I didn't but thanks!

Hey, just installed my speedo cable and it hits the allen heads on the rotor just slightly..... Any ideas?

Would button heads screws solve the issue?

Actually they are button head allens.
They just barely touch so I have ran them as is without any issues.

The dimensions seem to fluctuate depending on the model hub used and such. I ran my bolts in from the other side and used a thin 8mm nut. Also, I think the backside of the speedo drive can be ground a tad for clearance.

"An inch ( or a few thousandths in this case) is as good as a mile" as the saying goes.

[Godffery]

No I didn't but thanks!

Hey, just installed my speedo cable and it hits the allen heads on the rotor just slightly..... Any ideas?

Would button heads screws solve the issue?

Actually they are button head allens.
They just barely touch so I have ran them as is without any issues.

The dimensions seem to fluctuate depending on the model hub used and such. I ran my bolts in from the other side and used a thin 8mm nut. Also, I think the backside of the speedo drive can be ground a tad for clearance.

"An inch ( or a few thousandths in this case) is as good as a mile" as the saying goes.

I think your misunderstanding witch bolts we're referring to; not the 8mm threw bolts, but the 6mm stainless steel button head Allen bolts holding the new rotors to the rotor carrier. 
http://www.vinmoto.org/gallery/v/VinMoto-Garage/album03/Godfferys-Garage-123/95/Brake+Rotors+_+Thinned+and+Drilled/HONDA+Front+brake+rotors+CB750+K+-+F/CB750+-+1.bmp.html

[brandEn]

Thanks everyone. Kinda bummed about where the tips of the stripes ended up, oh well. I still love the way it is all coming together. Pictures just don't do the paint color justice. When its finished I will get some decent pictures of it outside in the daylight.

I noticed the stripes on the first pics of the tank that you posted and was wondering if the seat would cover the tips but didn't want to say anything and sound like a pompous a-hole..  The parts look real nice, though brandEn.  Blue is such a cool color that doesn't get used often enough.  Looking forward to finished pics.  Nicely done, man.

Glad I got your stamp of approval Larry. I value your opinion. Thanks!

No I didn't but thanks!

Hey, just installed my speedo cable and it hits the allen heads on the rotor just slightly..... Any ideas?

Would button heads screws solve the issue?

Actually they are button head allens.
They just barely touch so I have ran them as is without any issues.

I think I am going to be OK with this. Its just the thickest part of the plastic shield thats hitting. BARELY touching. I can sand it down a mm or so and be good.

[MCRider]

"I think your misunderstanding witch bolts we're referring to;..." Oops, never mind. 

[brandEn]

Got her off the lift today to clean up the floor.

[brandEn]

Got the Venhill 888 throttle buttoned up. I can't believe how much easier it is to connect the cables to the carbs compared to CR29's!

[andy750]

Quality build!!! Loving the attention to detail. What paint did you use for the airbox?

thanks
Andy

[brandEn]

Thanks Andy!

I used SEM trim paint #39143
This stuff is amazing and worth checking out. I painted the fork lowers of FZ1 with it a few years ago and it has held up VERY well. I get it at a local auto body supply shop.

[jerry h]

VERY nice! Can't wait to see how you finish K4.  (I don't think you could change anything on TAO to make it better - it's one of my favorite bikes.   When ever you post pics, I always end up stuck there starring at it, like a moth to a lightbulb )  Hard act to follow!

[Stev-o]

Hey BrandEn - do you plan to put any badge on the side covers?
If you recall, I also had a tank and side covers painted a similar blue. Am torn on whether to put badges on or not.  My K4 is also an 836 so don't really want to put "750".

[brandEn]

No I will probably leave them as is. I like the clean look.

[flybox1]

some seriously nice work there...

[MikeKato]

Hey BrandEn - do you plan to put any badge on the side covers?
If you recall, I also had a tank and side covers painted a similar blue. Am torn on whether to put badges on or not.  My K4 is also an 836 so don't really want to put "750".

http://www.cyclexchange.net/index%20pics/836%20Four.JPG

[brandEn]

So I made a tough decision and purchased a pipe from Chris at Moto GPWerks. He just finished a run of 5 pipes for months so I knew if I wanted one it was now or never. I figure I can always re-sell if I need to. My first impression of the pipe is WOW! Gorgeous. I really wanted a stainless pipe with this build because I think the dull finish of brushed stainless matches my theme very well. These pipes mount different than other CB750 pipes in that it's a 3 piece pipe that attach to each other via a slip fit and springs. I am a little concerned after getting it installed that after some use it will either leak or become loose at the slip joints. I figured it would be an advantage having the headers attached the way they are because I could just remove the springs and pull the headers off for an oil change. That doesn't seem to be the case. I installed the header flanges first and then tried to install the pipes but I couldn't get them to seat all the way. So I removed the flanges, installed them in the pipe, and then they mounted to the head perfectly. I installed the tailpipe and the springs and everything looks #$%*in. I am a bit concerned though because even with the springs installed I can still rotate the tailpipe a bit easier than I would like. I am also concerned that the extra weight of the stainless steel will be a bit to much of a stress on the top end so I want to make a little brace that will support it. Luckily he welds a mounting boss to the pipe. I will use the boss and make a brace that attaches to the frame via a clamp. Simple yet effective. This pipe really is nice.

[brandEn]

I knew that the stock filter housing was going to have clearance issues. I am pretty sure that a spin on filter adapter will solve the problem however. This was a sacrifice I was willing to make.