Author Topic: brandEn's K4 (Read 176950 times)

brandEn · « **Reply #750 on:** November 05, 2013, 05:58:45 pm »

Thanks for the tips everyone.
Godffery I really like that option. You think there is a way to do that but space it down closer to the tire instead of mounting the fender directly to the fork brace?

tweakin · « **Reply #751 on:** November 05, 2013, 06:31:23 pm »

Awesome B... Only thing missing is the video

You know my thoughts on the fender. Maybe some IPA's in the near future so I can hear it and see it move.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #752 on:** November 05, 2013, 09:19:26 pm »

Quote from: MCRider on November 05, 2013, 04:54:19 pm

This may have been the place:
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-custom-motorcycle-chassis-fender-parts-18-19-17-inch-aluminum-roccity-front-fender-rc-alumfen19.html

Or this, available in sizes:
http://www.britishracer.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1103

Both of those look good....

Godffery · « **Reply #753 on:** November 06, 2013, 08:56:18 am »

Quote from: brandEn on November 05, 2013, 05:58:45 pm

Thanks for the tips everyone.
Godffery I really like that option. You think there is a way to do that but space it down closer to the tire instead of mounting the fender directly to the fork brace?

Perhaps you could use some standoffs (basically a short peace of tubing) as a spacer between the fender & brace, then longer screws to attach them.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #754 on:** November 06, 2013, 03:20:22 pm »

Quote from: Godffery on November 06, 2013, 08:56:18 am

Quote from: brandEn on November 05, 2013, 05:58:45 pm
Thanks for the tips everyone.
Godffery I really like that option. You think there is a way to do that but space it down closer to the tire instead of mounting the fender directly to the fork brace?

Perhaps you could use some standoffs (basically a short peace of tubing) as a spacer between the fender & brace, then longer screws to attach them.

I thought the same thing, maybe sculpted out of rubber or polyurethane to give some vibration resistance....

brandEn · « **Reply #755 on:** November 06, 2013, 03:41:01 pm »

Thanks for the tips. I am thinking of options now.

brandEn · « **Reply #756 on:** November 08, 2013, 03:39:58 pm »

Will bigger slow jets help with popping on decel? I have my airscrews only 1/4 turn out from 1/2. Bike seems to like 1/2 turn better. I have the stock size 40 installed. So 42's?

brandEn · « **Reply #757 on:** November 09, 2013, 04:50:14 am »

Anyone?

cheftuskey121 · « **Reply #758 on:** November 09, 2013, 05:04:20 am »

I have no concrete evidence or experience but it seems logical

Stev-o · « **Reply #759 on:** November 09, 2013, 06:23:26 am »

Quote from: brandEn on November 08, 2013, 03:39:58 pm

Will bigger slow jets help with popping on decel?

Yes.....well maybe, cause is lack of back pressure, my K4 is similar with Action Four exhaust.
Another cause could be you that you are running lean? Good read here....

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=108153.0

tweakin · « **Reply #760 on:** November 09, 2013, 06:28:03 am »

Quote from: brandEn on November 08, 2013, 03:39:58 pm

Will bigger slow jets help with popping on decel? I have my airscrews only 1/4 turn out from 1/2. Bike seems to like 1/2 turn better. I have the stock size 40 installed. So 42's?

That might help.
Have you sealed up all the exhaust joints? Often decel pop is caused by exhaust leaks. Take it to Tower and put it on the dyno would be your best bet B.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #761 on:** November 09, 2013, 06:33:34 am »

I also run a 4-1 MGP pipe that pops on decel but is it an open (non-baffled) pipe. I'm not sure if you can outright avoid it.

Godffery · « **Reply #762 on:** November 09, 2013, 07:50:50 am »

If the Mixture screws are only 1/4 turn out (witch leans the mix) then increasing the slow jet size doesn’t seem necessary? If you want to go richer, back the screws out. Stock is somewhere in the rang of 1&1\2 turns out.

Is your timing set to stock specks or advanced? I've never had a bike with NON STOCK EXHAUST that would behave using the stock timing setting.

brandEn · « **Reply #763 on:** November 09, 2013, 08:04:41 am »

Thanks for the link.
Figure I will at least try them. I didn't even think about back pressure causing it.

brandEn · « **Reply #764 on:** November 09, 2013, 08:07:03 am »

Wait, I thought turning the screws in made it more rich ....

Pamco ignition with stock advance.

brandEn · « **Reply #765 on:** November 09, 2013, 08:09:43 am »

I have not sealed any of the joints. I suspect it's a carb tuning issue. It's not severe popping at all, just wanna play around to see if I can eliminate it.

Doctor_D · « **Reply #766 on:** November 09, 2013, 11:03:56 am »

Happy birthday, dude.

brandEn · « **Reply #767 on:** November 09, 2013, 11:25:00 am »

Thanks!

flybox1 · « **Reply #768 on:** November 10, 2013, 12:03:55 pm »

Richen it just a little. Mixture screw first. Of you're out of adjustment range, then go up in pilot size.

Quote from: TwoTired on September 15, 2005, 12:39:21 pm

The popping on decel is likely from accumulated fuel in the exhaust system lighting off. Which can occur from multiple stimulus.

- Leaks in the exhaust system can provide oxygen to enable the unburnt fuel to ignite with an ember from the piston chamber.

- If all the slides don't close evenly, some cylinders may get more fuel than others and pass that charge unburned into the exhaust. (Carb sync is needed.)
Leaning the idle mixture (turn screw out on Non-PD carbs) of the offending out of sync carb, should help abate the fuel buildup in the exhaust when the slide is in it's closed position. This is a diagnostic, not a fix of the source problem of out of sync carbs.

If carbs are in sync and there are no exhaust leaks, popping on decell is caused by a too lean mixture (normally caused by altering the inlet duct).

If the idle mixture is too lean, the cylinder will not fire the mixture at all and shove the lean mixture out the exhaust port unburnt. The rider can't tell, because he isn't asking for ANY power. However with enough exhaust cycles, there is enough fuel to ignite in a 4 to1 collector with an ember from any of the cylinders. Pop. The longer the deceleration time and the leaner the mixture, determines just how much popping occurs.
So, if the mixture is kept rich enough that the mixture fires even with no power being produced, no fuel collects and no popping occurs.
Cheers,

Popping can have more than one cause and the correction must fit the cause.

Cheers,

brandEn · « **Reply #769 on:** November 10, 2013, 12:08:22 pm »

From my understanding popping on decel is a lean condition. So I want to enrichen it up I believe...
or am I mistaken?

Godffery · « **Reply #770 on:** November 10, 2013, 06:19:00 pm »

Yes, richer.

flybox1 · « **Reply #771 on:** November 11, 2013, 08:03:41 am »

my bad, you're right.
corrected the post above and inserted the TT post that keeps me straight...

SOHC Digger · « **Reply #772 on:** November 14, 2013, 05:38:17 am »

Wow, some good info here!

brandEn · « **Reply #773 on:** November 16, 2013, 03:52:32 pm »

I had to order new oil and neutral sensors as well as side cover gaskets and Honda float valves. Got all that stuff installed as well as a set of #42 idle jets. Bike seems to idle a bit better already. Hopefully the clean up I did on the new gaskets stop the damn oil leak I had. So far the carbs haven't leaked a drop. I also ordered this sweet float gauge off ebay. Got this from the same guy I got my SS brake pistons from. Great service and products and even came with instructions. This tool makes adjusting the floats so much easier!

cheftuskey121 · « **Reply #774 on:** December 02, 2013, 06:29:32 pm »

I have that same float adjuster tool. its great for those carbs. how's the bike? haven't seen an update in a good bit now.

News:

Author Topic: brandEn's K4 (Read 176950 times)