Author Topic: 76 550 rectifier / regulator  (Read 1252 times)

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Offline andymum

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76 550 rectifier / regulator
« on: March 23, 2012, 11:15:00 AM »
Hi

can anyone help please I have low power on lights and horn checked connections and all found earths, but when i run a wire from battery direct have full lights and horn.

could this be regulator or rectifier issue if so how do i check them ???????????????????????????????????????

cheers

Offline KC3

  • Nature abhors a change in flux - David Griffiths
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Re: 76 550 rectifier / regulator
« Reply #1 on: March 23, 2012, 11:23:14 AM »
When you run the wire are you running power, ground, or both? Where exactly are you running it? What is your battery voltage? I would recommend first checking all connections for corrosion (especially the fuses).
Whether you think you can, or think you can't...You're right. -Henry Ford

Offline TwoTired

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Re: 76 550 rectifier / regulator
« Reply #2 on: March 23, 2012, 11:28:37 AM »
Between the battery and the powered device there are two pathways for current flow.  One from the POS battery terminal and the other from (or to) the Battery NEG terminal.

Voltage loss in either pathway is the result of in line resistance which may occur in one place or many places.  Finding the voltage losses is a matter of using a voltmeter to probe incremental points along the pathway to see where the losses accumulate the most, and then reducing the magnitude of those resistance points.

A wiring diagram is of great assistance, as it allows a map of the electron roadway on the bike, where you can make notes as to what voltage exists at any point where you have probed the system.
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline KC3

  • Nature abhors a change in flux - David Griffiths
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Re: 76 550 rectifier / regulator
« Reply #3 on: March 23, 2012, 11:35:49 AM »
Between the battery and the powered device there are two pathways for current flow.  One from the POS battery terminal and the other from (or to) the Battery NEG terminal.

Voltage loss in either pathway is the result of in line resistance which may occur in one place or many places.  Finding the voltage losses is a matter of using a voltmeter to probe incremental points along the pathway to see where the losses accumulate the most, and then reducing the magnitude of those resistance points.

A wiring diagram is of great assistance, as it allows a map of the electron roadway on the bike, where you can make notes as to what voltage exists at any point where you have probed the system.

+1 well put, TwoTired. I believe electons move from negative toward positive, for future reference. :-) Benjamin Frankin was incorrect when defining the charge carrier the way he did, therefore all of us have to suffer for all of eternity.

Anyways, find that potential drop andymum, and minimize it!

Cheers,
KC
Whether you think you can, or think you can't...You're right. -Henry Ford

Offline andymum

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Re: 76 550 rectifier / regulator
« Reply #4 on: March 25, 2012, 06:22:24 AM »
I have bypassed the origional wireing loom put diff switches on earthed to frame and run pos power striaght to switches battery good

Offline TwoTired

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Re: 76 550 rectifier / regulator
« Reply #5 on: March 25, 2012, 10:00:44 AM »
Let us know when you've measured the voltages about the system.
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline CoachDoc

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  • 1974 CB550, 2005 GL1800, 1997 Valkyrie Standard
Re: 76 550 rectifier / regulator
« Reply #6 on: March 25, 2012, 03:04:42 PM »
This would be a good time to get yourself some emery and a .17 cal rifle bore cleaning wire brush. Take out all your fuses and use the bore cleaning brush to clean the insides of all the fuse holders. Corrosion can build up imperceptibly there over the course of decades, and rob current. Then take apart your headlight bucket and clean the male bullet connectors with the emery, females with the wire bore cleaning brush. Do the same to all connections at the fuse panel, rectifier and regulator. Also battery terminals and ground. Hook everything back up and see how much better your headlight and electrics perform. Made a huge difference for me.