Topic: Mongrel

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

it is easier to get the frame and engine mated at this stage when you can lay the motor on its side and the frame over it. Then get it into a roller.

[Damage Inc]

Yup, gotta do all those things. 

Personally, I prefer to install the engine in the frame first. I assemble the front end partially, then lift the neck, slip the front end in, then do the same with the rear. Then it's a roller. I save wiring until last.

Make sure you clean the powder coat off for some bare metal grounds to the frame.

The service manual states the rear hanger mount as the earth grounding point.
Do you have other points in mind also?

it is easier to get the frame and engine mated at this stage when you can lay the motor on its side and the frame over it. Then get it into a roller.

I thought the engine would be next. Here are the parts I've got to order before I can begin the assembly.
Main bearings
Big end  bearings
Conrod bolts
Head studs
Oil seal kit
Piston pins and clips
While I'm making an order, to save postage. I need.
Fork tubes
Fork seals and clip
Chain
Parts I've already purchased
Top end gasket set then a full gasket set
New Pistons
Replacement crank
New valves
Dyna s ignition
Carbys rebuilt
Stainless fasteners
Parts that might need to be replaced, now that I've gone this far.
Gearbox bearings
Primary chain
Cam chain
Sprockets

I'm sure there are parts that I haven't considered.
So if anyone can see any obvious ones missing. Give me the tip..??

[calj737]

New rings?
Definitely want new cam and primary chains.
Not sure why you'd need con rod bolts?


As for bare metal grounds, definitely at the rear hangar, but depending upon how you wire it, if you have painted the bars, etc., then you should be prepared to for some other bare metal spots along the backbone or trees for proper grounds. You can clean these when you decide where they should be.

[Damage Inc]

New rings?
Definitely want new cam and primary chains.
Not sure why you'd need con rod bolts?


As for bare metal grounds, definitely at the rear hangar, but depending upon how you wire it, if you have painted the bars, etc., then you should be prepared to for some other bare metal spots along the backbone or trees for proper grounds. You can clean these when you decide where they should be.

Thx calj,
Yes, didn't mention that I've got new rings to.
Not sure if it was advice from the forum or elsewhere, some one said I should consider replacing the conrod bolts also. My problem is that coupled with my lack of mechanical experience and the abundance of advice and opinions. I tend to take it all onboard.

[bwaller]

The upgraded rod bolts & nuts are not expensive and are a bit of insurance especially if you don't know the engines history.

[Damage Inc]

The upgraded rod bolts & nuts are not expensive and are a bit of insurance especially if you don't know the engines history.

I'm hoping that once this engine is reassembled, that I won't be pulling in apart anytime soon.
So I'm prepared to spend the extra now for a bit of insurance.
The only history I have been able to determine is that a PO got the cam modified to a mild street profile. So they were in search of extra HP, so possibly gave it more of a flogging.

[Damage Inc]

I removed the spokes from my front rim today.
I'm planning to powdercoat the rims. I had planned to pull the hub apart to polish and paint, I just had the thought that perhaps I could do this without dismantling the hub. ( save time or perfect time to replace parts. i.e bearings)

What's the wiser move, to pull apart or leave assembled? ( it appears in good order )

Has anyone had any experience with painted spokes? ( durability, longevity)

On the subject of front brake disc, is there any performance increase or decrease when the disc is drilled?
Is there a more effective drilling pattern to another?

Any help,opinions or thoughts appreciated.

Damage Inc

[calj737]

It's always best to disassemble a hub if your painting or powder costing it, but simply polishing does not necessitate this.

I've seen folks powder coat their spokes, some have rattle can sprayed them. It's all in the prep...

Drilling a disc does improve wet braking as it provides an escape for the moisture that is otherwise being caught between the pad and disc. It does also (though neglible) reduce the weight of the rotor which promotes slightly better handling (not really measurable in a single disc application). He's to keep the pattern sensible. Too many holes and you will crack the rotor. Check the Services Offered section, there's a few listing for this service.

[Damage Inc]

It's always best to disassemble a hub if your painting or powder costing it, but simply polishing does not necessitate this.

I've seen folks powder coat their spokes, some have rattle can sprayed them. It's all in the prep...

Drilling a disc does improve wet braking as it provides an escape for the moisture that is otherwise being caught between the pad and disc. It does also (though neglible) reduce the weight of the rotor which promotes slightly better handling (not really measurable in a single disc application). He's to keep the pattern sensible. Too many holes and you will crack the rotor. Check the Services Offered section, there's a few listing for this service.

Thx calj.
I'll go with the disassembled hubs, as I'll get them powdercoated.
I'm going to paint the spokes as I think powder will be too thick and give me grief in the reassembly.
Jury still out on the rotor.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I wonder if powdercoating spokes post assembly might require one to re-true the wheels?

[Damage Inc]

I wonder if powdercoating spokes post assembly might require one to re-true the wheels?

The trick is that the spokes will be a different color than the hub and rim.

[Damage Inc]

Having difficulty removing bearing retainer!
Is it left or right hand thread?

[calj737]

Probably your stakes are not drilled out deep enough.

[Damage Inc]

Probably your stakes are not drilled out deep enough.

Defiantly right, not drilled out at all!
Thx

[Damage Inc]

Rear hub came apart easier with my home made retainer remover

[Damage Inc]

Finally.
Managed to put together enough money for my parts list. Placed order and should be in the mail in about a month, due to some parts not in stock at present.
Progress none the less.
I've taken photos along the way, but not sure if I've taken enough.
Any suggestions of a rebuild tutorial, in the forum. That will assist with a 71 500 engine build?

[Damage Inc]

Finally got my package with all the goodies, now the engine build can begin. Excited and daunted at the same time.
Any tips or tricks that might prevent any noobie errors would be appreciated.

[Damage Inc]

So these are a couple of videos I've shot to try and determine the lift and duration.

Roughly or perhaps even very roughly.
Part1:165deg-170deg duration with.304-.307 lift
Part2:160deg-170deg duration with.307-.312 lift
Duration sounds wrong, the specs quoted were 320 duration(mild street grind) .312 lift. The way I came up with my duration number was to count the number of deg. From start of lift to the end of lift

[Damage Inc]

There is plenty said on this forum in regards to that age old question "airbox vs pods" and from what I've read airbox wins in most instances (my opinion). With the exception being when performance mods are made, ie, ports, cam, exhaust and after market carbys (cr's) as stock carbs designed for airbox airflow. With the mods I intend to have being the Mild Street cam and tuned headers, perhaps the electronic ignition is considered a performance inhancement or not.  I am wondering if I should go down the pod path. If I had the airbox with the bike when I bought the bike I would just use it. All it came with was the merge chamber, so even considered running a single filter on the back of that, which I've seen done before.
I'm very much a novice at all this and I'm not looking to re open again the airbox vs pods debate( there is plenty already said). The reasons I ask the question are one I'm a tight arse and if I have to source an airbox it will most likely be from OS and funds are ALWAYS tight. Two, can I make do with what I've got? (Chamber. + filter). Three, Do these mods justify considering pods? I've also put into consideration my ability to tune the mongrel once it breathes. I ask because I have zero experience with these bikes and I know many here have had experience with all the variations.
Not looking for long scientific responses(any information appropriated). Just as many as possible.

[Tews19]

How much is it to ship to you from 53119? I may have a spare box and csn send it your way.

[Damage Inc]

Thx for the offer Tews19, looks around $50 - $80, depending on size weight and express features. What I'll do over the next day or so is post a picture of what I've got. I think at least, I need the filter box.
I found a complete set over here awhile back, but the owner was difficult to get organised and it fell through.
It's a 500(71) in a 550(77) frame. Not that it makes a whole lot of difference. The 550 box has a breather pipe on the bottom and I don't think the 500 did.

[calj737]

You need the box to fit the 550 frame, but the carb boots to be compatible with the 500 carbs. (Just in case the airbox is from an F model or late PD carb bike). It will probably be MUCH easier to make it go than to tune for pods, especially if you're on a tight budget).

Tews, how about you ship it as a swap for Fantasy Football 

[Damage Inc]

This what I've got
Not sure what's got 500 origins or 550. Apreciate the tuning tips.  Footy fantasy went over my head though.

[Damage Inc]

So my engine assembly was come to a standstill with the discovery that I've lost some parts. I'm trying to determine their correct description, so I can find out their part number and order replacements.

When I look up the schematics for gear shift fork on CMS the parts are on the picture but not on the shopping list. 1&30 are the spring and bearing ball for the shift drum screw, they are the parts i've lost. As well as the 57mm, 52mm set rings for the transmission.

Does anyone know who stocks the spring and bearing ball?

Also the neutral light switch cam has broken it's locator lug(almost all off). I can feel when its in the right position, but should probably replace it while I'm there. I'm not sure where to find its part number either??

Any help or advice is always appreciated. 

[calj737]

So a couple of things:
If you click on the item number within the product listing, you get the detail page. There, you will see the Honda part number-
SET RING 57 MM CB500K1 FOUR 1972 USA

The 13491283000 Set Ring 57 Mmis (temporarly) unavailable. Fits the Honda Cb500k1 Four 1972 Usa. 13491-283-000 is the manufacturercode.

You can Google that part number alone, or check the online stores for Honda dealers here in the states. If you call your local Honda dealer, they can perform a nationwide inventory search by that part number too.

The shift fork spring and ball bearing you'll need to source from another member with a transmission to donate. There's a few parting out engines on the forum. I sent a complete trans off, else I'd have one to donate to you. The ball bearing, once you know its size you can source locally I'm sure.

Neutral light switch - Do you mean part #9 here:
http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb500k1-four-1972-usa_model460/partslist/E++10.html#row35753323000?