Author Topic: Mongrel (Read 40381 times)

OneWheelDrive · « **Reply #25 on:** June 04, 2012, 01:48:02 PM »

Don't bother spending the coin to get full rebuild kits with jets until you open them up and see if there's anything broken. You will likely just need the o-ring kits, they're much cheaper!

Damage Inc · « **Reply #26 on:** June 05, 2012, 12:42:19 AM »

Quote from: OneWheelDrive on June 04, 2012, 01:48:02 PM

Don't bother spending the coin to get full rebuild kits with jets until you open them up and see if there's anything broken. You will likely just need the o-ring kits, they're much cheaper!

Thx OneWheelDrive, I'm a big fan of advice that saves me coin!
I'm in saving mode after spending close to a grand on the top end. I think it was worth it.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #27 on:** December 02, 2012, 04:08:26 AM »

Quick update

I've given up on the idea of a reassembly of the motor, for a test run, before a bare frame strip down.
I want to clean up the bottom case for a paint before I put the top end together.

Someone is homeless now

I've got a rolling frame ready, to mock up my rear sets, remove some tabs ie seat lock and hinge, rear seat hoop and anything else that comes up. I've been looking at many images, trying to decide what's the best way to with centre and side stand???

I dont know if my fork tubes can be saved, or will I need to look for new ones

Damage Inc · « **Reply #28 on:** December 23, 2012, 01:15:06 AM »

I removed the generator cover yesterday to find surface rust on the inside surface of the stator coil, the field coil has rust all over it and the generator rotor has rust on its surface

If anyone can tell me if this needs to fixed and how, it would be appreciated. Just another question. Is it ok to post these sort of questions in this forum(project shop) or should I be going somewhere else?
My brotherinlaw called over a couple of days ago, to show me his new VFR. Very nice. Thought I'd share it. It has inspired me to pick up the pace.

What? Me jealous! Never.

Roach Carver · « **Reply #29 on:** December 23, 2012, 03:32:42 AM »

This is your project thread. You can post pics of projects, questions, or.really anything you want as long as its not a naked lady. Strange rule, I know. As far as that rotor goes, well I am not sure. I would be inclined to clean it up but I am not sure if it has to be done or not. If you want to remove it there is a special tool for the job.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #30 on:** December 23, 2012, 04:19:19 PM »

Thx roach carver. I appreciate the feedback. I was thinking steel wool or fine emery paper, to clean off the rust. I just want to avoid doing something that might do some Damage.

Roach Carver · « **Reply #31 on:** December 23, 2012, 04:50:53 PM »

I dont think you can really hurt it with a little sandpaper. Hopefully we will get someone with more experience with this to chime in.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #32 on:** December 24, 2012, 05:45:10 AM »

Merry Christmas all. It's 12:42am Christmas morning, I,ve finished assembling the little ones toys and it's time to try a get some shut eye. Wishing you all a safe and happy day.

mono · « **Reply #33 on:** December 24, 2012, 05:56:16 AM »

Merry Christmas! I have a whole day to wait yet...

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Tews19 · « **Reply #34 on:** December 25, 2012, 05:34:49 PM »

Very interesting build. Have you decided to split the cases? Maybe even look Into a running engine? The head work you had done would be ashame to see it go to waste and a nasty bottom end.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #35 on:** December 25, 2012, 11:58:53 PM »

Splitting the case would probably be an option, with what I've found behind the side cases,it's probably a good idea. As far as getting a running motor. It's hard to get any parts over here in Australia. These bikes are reasonably few and far between. Being my first project, I was trying to minimise the mechanical work on the motor and the costs. I'm not sure how much I've spent on the motor so far, I think it's over $1500 with the new pistons, electronic ignition, polished stainless fasteners, cam grind, head works ,new valves, barrel honed, rockers ground and full carb kit. It adds up quickly, but I want to do it properly. If I've got to split it I'm fine that, just thought if I don't need to I wouldn't . As it turns out it may be the only way to get it cleaned up for a nice paint finish.

Tews19 · « **Reply #36 on:** December 26, 2012, 09:01:23 AM »

Not sure where you are down under but you have Dave500 on this site. He is from Aussie and is the 500/550 man.. You may want to send him a PM he may be able to help you out...

Damage Inc · « **Reply #37 on:** December 27, 2012, 02:09:28 AM »

Thx Tew19, I'm about as far south as you can get on the mainland and Dave500 is about half way to the northern tip, a couple of states away. He's probably still well worth my while contacting. You have prompted me to pm one of the guys on the forum, who is from my state. Hopefully I get some good info there.

rb550four · « **Reply #38 on:** December 31, 2012, 10:56:57 AM »

I've been keeping up with your thread,and I think Tews19 is right, you've gone this far into a rebuild and have found allot of oxidation in the cases. It would be a shame to put it all back together only to find that shifting forks are rusted and needed cleaning(poor shift/no shift), or tons of rust that could have been removed before effecting other parts, Piece of mind that comes with the inspection all bearings and mating surfaces, removal of rust deposits from all gear surfaces, examination of partials in the oil pan, changing out shifter and kick start seals, pan seals....clutch,you'll want to take that apart, get the rust and spent clutch particulate out of there. This is stuff that won't be costing another thousand dollars that you can take care of, such a waste it would be to come this far and fail. You are in a good position right now to do this and the choice is up to you. I'm sure there is enough knowledge here to help you through it. I would most certainly take the lower end apart, inspect, clean every part,then this machine will never be a stranger to you and you'll know what to expect with confidence.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #39 on:** December 31, 2012, 03:08:03 PM »

Thx rb550four, I appreciate your advise. Yours and Tew19's advise has help me decide that a bottom end strip down is the way to go. Spewing that I didn't get a full gasket kit now, but there are bottom end kits readly available. Before I go any further with the bottom end, I'll have to finish rebuilding these carbys. They've been striped down for a while and if don't get them finished, I'll forget how to put them back together. If I already haven't. I've been waiting for my blasting cabinet to be finished( another one of my projects). Nearly there. I want to soda blast the carby bodies, as soaking and scrubbing didn't get them as clean as I'd like. I'm also considering giving the bodies a coat of paint. I've got to track down a detailed assembly plan for these 627b carbies, as the service manuals are limited in their detail.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #40 on:** January 03, 2013, 01:36:36 AM »

I'm getting the carby bodies ready for a ultrasonic clean or soda blast and I'm a bit concerned about the felt seals. One came out while I was soaking and scrubbing in carby cleaner then kero. I was reading in the tech section, that the felt seal could be damage by the chemicals used in ultrasonic if not done carefully. There were none supplied in the rebuild kits, so I imagine that I've got to look after them. Is it advised not to remove them...?
I tried to attach some pictures, no success. I'll get on the PC and post some.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #41 on:** January 03, 2013, 01:46:31 AM »

I haven't done the kero clean on the left body, and you'll notice dirty tube in the throat of left one. Does this tube come out?

iron_worker · « **Reply #42 on:** January 03, 2013, 07:54:26 AM »

I think those tubes are pressed in. I don't think it will come out without damaging something.

IW

mono · « **Reply #43 on:** January 04, 2013, 05:36:22 PM »

No Those don't come out.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Damage Inc · « **Reply #44 on:** January 04, 2013, 10:09:28 PM »

Thx guys. Best I don't try and pull them out then. I'll get some compressed air set up in the shed so I can give them a blow out. Got some solutions for the felt seal questions, from the tech section. So I think I'm sorted in that area. I'd hate to think where I'd be on this project, if I didn't have access to this forum. Plenty of information, advice and opinions.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #45 on:** January 12, 2013, 01:56:08 AM »

Carby cleaning saga continues.
I decided to try ultrasonic. The guy that did the head work has a small unit for cleaning injectors. Just large enough to fit one 627b body. When I went back to see how it went, he was a bit concerned with the finished product. The chemical has leached out some of the grey/green diecast colour, which wasn't to bad but it was blotchy, as well.
Top one is the ultrasonic, the other is the soaked and scrubbed

The white box returns. My blasting cabinet is ready for a trial.

I know that I may regret this, but I decided to soda blast the bodies.
Top one is blasted(would have been happy with this finish) and bottom is not blasted ultrasonic.

Both blasted. Colour still very noticeable.

I wouldn't be happy reassembling with one odd colour carb. I'm thinking if I can polish the blotches out of the ultrasonic, ie steel wool or something. I'd have the rest ultrasonically cleaned then blasted and polished. If it doesn't polish up, I'll blast the rest, as is and paint the bodies. I like the looks of painted carbs, but not sure if its the smartest move for long term finish.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #46 on:** January 27, 2013, 04:41:16 AM »

Just what this thread needs! More carby pictures.

These carbies should be the cleanest on the planet. I started with carby cleaner, the problem I had here was a lack of availability of sufficient quantities. I wasn't able to find anything other than aerosol cans of cleaner and thought the expense required to fill a bucket wasn't justified. FIRST MISTAKE, perhaps the saga would've been avoided with a good soak. So I blasted the ultrasonically cleaned body and felt it was a finish that I was happy with. I've had all the bodies ultrasonically cleaned and now I find ONE(top right) has not lost it's color as much. I got it ultrasonically cleaned again, no change. Blast it again, no change. So I'm going for the painted finish, at this point I've got to get all the bi carb soda off. Rinse in water(cold), this doesn't get it out off all the nooks and crannies. Read in a thread that the dish washer(hot rinse) can be successful, so I give it a go(no soap or detergents). The bodies come out worst than when they went in, covered in a white powdery finish(not sure if it's the bicarb soda or just residual contamination from the washer). Now I put them in a pot of boiling water to soak and dissolve residue, with minimal results. Lastly I've soaked them in petrol and brushed them with a stiff bristled brush, which has them as close as I think I'll get them to be ready for painting.
NOOB MOMENTS APLENTY

From the electroplaters removing flakey old chrome, 4 grades(200,400,800,1000)of sanding to polishing with the buff.

Tews19 · « **Reply #47 on:** January 28, 2013, 09:23:23 AM »

Keep up the work. Soda blasting shouldn't be bad.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #48 on:** March 06, 2013, 11:26:15 PM »

Carby bodies painted.

rb550four · « **Reply #49 on:** March 07, 2013, 05:35:53 PM »

Damage, The felt that you mentioned in reply #40,They don't come in a rebuilt kit, They no longer come from the factory either, treat the ones that you have well. They are hard to come by. I'm suprised that no one has chimed in before to tell you that they are made of unobtainium.
Do you feel better about the carbs now that they are painted? Did you use a fuel resistant paint? Just wondering. What's your paint scheme for the engine? I know too many questions....I wouldn't ask if I wasn't interested. Coming along nicely.

News:

Author Topic: Mongrel (Read 40381 times)