Author Topic: Mongrel (Read 40154 times)

grcamna2 · « **Reply #125 on:** November 21, 2014, 06:32:49 AM »

Quote from: Damage Inc on November 19, 2014, 01:49:27 AM

And the winner is "Kemp".
One internal bolt I missed in the manual.
2 taps and split.
Thx guys for your tips.

That's good you found it rather than pulling your hair out

Damage Inc · « **Reply #126 on:** November 21, 2014, 03:17:29 PM »

Quote from: grcamna2 on November 21, 2014, 06:32:49 AM

Quote from: Damage Inc on November 19, 2014, 01:49:27 AM
And the winner is "Kemp".
One internal bolt I missed in the manual.
2 taps and split.
Thx guys for your tips.

That's good you found it rather than pulling your hair out

I'm glad I resisted the urge to follow the advise of a friend to drive a flat head screwdriver between the cases.

I want to remove this bearing before I pressure wash and paint strip the case. Thinking a bit of heat and it may drop out. The slide hammer didn't move it.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #127 on:** December 02, 2014, 03:13:11 PM »

I've been removing paint from the engine cases and the sump cover. One of the fins on the cover is ground down.

Is this normal and required for some clearance? If not I'll build it up to match the others.

How prone are the head studs to stretching? Is there merit in replacing them?

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #128 on:** December 02, 2014, 10:08:55 PM »

The studs are prone to stretch. HD studs will allow you to torque down the head tighter. In my case, it cured a leak issue.

calj737 · « **Reply #129 on:** December 03, 2014, 02:37:42 AM »

All studs stretch, so that's not really an accurate concern. Warpage of the block or head are more likely to generate a leak than stretched studs at this point. The studs were installed and torqued into the block, then nuts to the studs at a design spec, which built into it the stretch factor. Once stretched, they stop stretching due to the limited torque.

Hard to be certain from your picture, but there seems to be some corrosion on the shafts of a few, plus some at the base. I'd replace them purely for durability concerns. At this point they're 40 years old, they're inexpensive parts, readily accessible, and critical for the proper operation of your motor. No other reasons matter in my judgement...

Damage Inc · « **Reply #130 on:** December 12, 2014, 06:39:04 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on December 03, 2014, 02:37:42 AM

All studs stretch, so that's not really an accurate concern. Warpage of the block or head are more likely to generate a leak than stretched studs at this point. The studs were installed and torqued into the block, then nuts to the studs at a design spec, which built into it the stretch factor. Once stretched, they stop stretching due to the limited torque.

Hard to be certain from your picture, but there seems to be some corrosion on the shafts of a few, plus some at the base. I'd replace them purely for durability concerns. At this point they're 40 years old, they're inexpensive parts, readily accessible, and critical for the proper operation of your motor. No other reasons matter in my judgement...

Thx cal, I think your spot on. I'm thinking of replacing the rod bolts as well.
I'm waiting for a replacement crank, should be here in a couple of weeks.
Next order is bearings(main and rod) cylinder studs, rod bolts, new case bolts and a oil seal kit. Better work through Christmas to afford these.

calj737 · « **Reply #131 on:** December 12, 2014, 07:41:41 PM »

If you're changing cranks, wait to order bearings until after you've verified tolerances with rods and journals (in case you didn't know this).

Damage Inc · « **Reply #132 on:** December 13, 2014, 12:40:59 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on December 12, 2014, 07:41:41 PM

If you're changing cranks, wait to order bearings until after you've verified tolerances with rods and journals (in case you didn't know this).

Hey thx, I would've forgot abou that and gone ahead and ordered some. Good call.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #133 on:** December 31, 2014, 10:10:48 PM »

My replacement crank arrived at the door, really happy with its condition. Much better than the original. Just need to get the dimension of the journals, cases and rods to see what bearings I need.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #134 on:** January 05, 2015, 06:36:36 PM »

Removed cylinder studs today

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #135 on:** January 05, 2015, 09:24:42 PM »

Nice and clean.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #136 on:** January 19, 2015, 10:55:50 PM »

Cases taped up and ready for paint.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #137 on:** January 20, 2015, 09:06:14 PM »

Painted and drying

Damage Inc · « **Reply #138 on:** April 03, 2015, 08:17:47 PM »

I sent my side covers off to the platers, to have the crappy chrome removed.

I had plans to paint them to match the crank cases. The plater decided to give them a polish, and now the conundrum is whether to go with the polish or paint them???

Trad · « **Reply #139 on:** April 03, 2015, 08:41:45 PM »

My vote is to leave them polished. That bottom end is looking great!

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #140 on:** April 04, 2015, 01:08:58 AM »

The polished covers look pretty damn good. They will oxidize, so you will have to keep them clean with a periodic polish, but they look nice.

rb550four · « **Reply #141 on:** April 05, 2015, 01:26:41 PM »

I use Mothers polish on the polished parts, keeps them looking good.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #142 on:** April 06, 2015, 10:34:57 PM »

Quote from: Trad on April 03, 2015, 08:41:45 PM

My vote is to leave them polished. That bottom end is looking great!

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on April 04, 2015, 01:08:58 AM

The polished covers look pretty damn good. They will oxidize, so you will have to keep them clean with a periodic polish, but they look nice.

Quote from: rb550four on April 05, 2015, 01:26:41 PM

I use Mothers polish on the polished parts, keeps them looking good.

Thx for your thoughts guys.
I originally planned the polished side covers for the project, but after doing the carby bowls realised how much work is involved with all the sanding of the different grade grits. I thought all black with s/s fastners. Which I think looks pretty cool. I'm thinking their polished now and most of the hard work is done, so I'll run with it.
I'm not sure if this link will work, but has anyone used this or similar product

Damage Inc · « **Reply #143 on:** April 07, 2015, 04:54:06 AM »

Sorry
I was trying to post a link to,
GripAce.com
Wondering how these would go.?

calj737 · « **Reply #144 on:** April 07, 2015, 06:21:19 AM »

If they're simple momentary switches, sure, they'll work. I didn't see a "controller" for them? You could also couple them with an m-unit from motogadget for a super trick and programmable solution.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #145 on:** June 05, 2015, 10:38:29 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on April 07, 2015, 06:21:19 AM

If they're simple momentary switches, sure, they'll work. I didn't see a "controller" for them? You could also couple them with an m-unit from motogadget for a super trick and programmable solution.

I think they have their own controller, from what I read about them.

I've been trying to save enough coin, for the parts I need to to put the engine back together. I'm planning to get a shipment from David silvers. I realise I'm going to need parts for the forks and frame as well so I'll need to bundle to save shipping.

While I'm saving I've stripped the frame down to get it ready for powder coating. An expense I can cover at this time.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #146 on:** June 29, 2015, 05:32:43 AM »

Took frame, centre stand, kick stand and swing arm to the powdercoaters today.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #147 on:** June 29, 2015, 07:32:59 AM »

Quote from: Damage Inc on April 07, 2015, 04:54:06 AM

Sorry
I was trying to post a link to,
GripAce.com
Wondering how these would go.?

That's the company owned by the brother of stunter Jason Britton. It's my understanding that the switches have their own programmable controller.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #148 on:** June 30, 2015, 03:35:31 AM »

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on June 29, 2015, 07:32:59 AM

Quote from: Damage Inc on April 07, 2015, 04:54:06 AM
Sorry
I was trying to post a link to,
GripAce.com
Wondering how these would go.?

That's the company owned by the brother of stunter Jason Britton. It's my understanding that the switches have their own programmable controller.

I agree, they mention a controller on their website.

I got my powder coating back today. It's really encouraging to get some forward movement with this project. Feels like an assembly beginning, of sorts.

Question for those with multiple build experience, what is your opinion on assembly sequence? ie front end, rear end, engine, wiring. Any tips appreciated.

calj737 · « **Reply #149 on:** June 30, 2015, 05:45:22 AM »

Yup, gotta do all those things.

Personally, I prefer to install the engine in the frame first. I assemble the front end partially, then lift the neck, slip the front end in, then do the same with the rear. Then it's a roller. I save wiring until last.

Make sure you clean the powder coat off for some bare metal grounds to the frame.

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Author Topic: Mongrel (Read 40154 times)