Author Topic: POD Filter Tuning  (Read 3158 times)

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Offline Mighty550

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POD Filter Tuning
« on: April 05, 2012, 04:41:47 AM »
Ok, so i have read almost every pod filter post that i can find on this site.  I read almost all 40 some pages of the pod filters thread.  There is tons of back and forth as to who likes them, and who doesnt and why.  Bottom line is, some of us like these things and want to make them work.  So Im asking that for this thread, people post up their full set-up that is working well for them (bike year, model, exhaust, main jet, pilot jet, needle setting, and other mods).

I have a 76 CB550F that has 4-2 open exhaust.  No other mods
I am going to use the 35mm, 2 3/4" long emgo pod filters
Set-up I think will work (after all the reading)
   Main Jet - 110  (98 stock)
   Pilot Jet - 40   (38 stock)
   Needle - stock position

So post up what you got and how its worked for you!  Lets keep this just tuning set-ups, there are other threads for the pod/stock airbox debate.
« Last Edit: April 05, 2012, 06:47:31 AM by Mighty550 »

Offline db22

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Re: POD Filter Tuning
« Reply #1 on: April 05, 2012, 06:32:04 AM »
I have a '75 CB550K, running UNI pods trimmed and re-glued to fit the frame, not oiled.  Carbs are '77 PD46A, stock jets were originally 90/main and 38/slow, currently running 98/main and 38/slow, factory needle setting.  Exhaust is a 4-into-2 set, probably MAC, fitted by some PO.  I think the UNI foam pods restrict airflow a bit more than Emgo mesh pods.  UNIs are sturdier and a better fit, once they are shortened a bit to fit the frame.  I doubt that the coarse metal mesh in Emgo pods provides much filtration of the incoming air. 

The biggest immediate benefit of using pods is the increased ease in removing the carbs.  It is argued that you would not need to remove the carbs nearly as often if you used the factory airbox.  That may be so on a newer bike, but the assertion doesn't apply so well to my 37-year-old cobbled-together machine.
1975 CB550K (rider)
1975 CB550K (shaping up, slowly)
I may be goin' to hell in a bucket, but at least I'm enjoyin' the ride. . .

Offline Lostboy Steve

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Re: POD Filter Tuning
« Reply #2 on: April 05, 2012, 08:56:39 AM »
77cb550k  4 into 2. No Idea what brand. UNI pods. I did 105 mains 40 slows stock needle. I didn't ride it much yet but it feels ok. My biggest problem is a rich idle. But I'm yet to tune the carbs 100% I have another set torn down for detailing and powdercoating. When I get them back I will set it up right.
1968 Honda Z50
1977 Honda CB550K
2018 Indian Scout

Offline Lostboy Steve

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Re: POD Filter Tuning
« Reply #3 on: April 05, 2012, 09:02:19 AM »
I should add that I ported the hell out of my head with full valve job, and am using stock points type ignition with new components. (I'm sure a lot of tuning issues come from ignition, valve sealing, engine wear, etc.)
1968 Honda Z50
1977 Honda CB550K
2018 Indian Scout

Offline db22

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Re: POD Filter Tuning
« Reply #4 on: April 08, 2012, 10:07:52 AM »
Swapped out my 98 mains for 105s yesterday, and will change the 38 slows to 40s as soon as payday rolls around.  Twistedengineering has the right formula, I'm thinking -- throttle response is way better at highway speed.  I was running too lean.
1975 CB550K (rider)
1975 CB550K (shaping up, slowly)
I may be goin' to hell in a bucket, but at least I'm enjoyin' the ride. . .

Offline Retro Rocket

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Re: POD Filter Tuning
« Reply #5 on: April 10, 2012, 02:43:53 AM »
Quote
  Bottom line is, some of us like these things and want to make them work.

I would like a dollar for every time i have heard that, a side note to all the threads you claim to have read is that a fair percentage of the guys that started those threads have changed back to the original set up simply to find out how easy it is to tune these bikes with the stock setup.The problem  is that most people here that think their bike runs well with pods, really don't know how well these bikes really run and how easy they are to tune when set up properly. If you have read all the info on this site and still wish to persist, you will be settling for second best, your bike will never run as good as the stock set up with stock carbs and airbox {reasons are clearly stated in posts you have already read, it's physics not opinion} , if thats what you want then proceed and have fun.....  The closest you will get is to find pods with inbuilt velocity stacks, not perfect but better than anything else.
750 K2 1000cc
750 F1 970cc
750 Bitsa 900cc
If You can't fix it with a hammer, You've got an electrical problem.

Online dave500

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Re: POD Filter Tuning
« Reply #6 on: April 10, 2012, 02:45:59 AM »
i never post comments reguarding pod tuning,,,DOH,i just posted.

Offline Mighty550

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Re: POD Filter Tuning
« Reply #7 on: April 10, 2012, 04:23:52 AM »
Quote
  Bottom line is, some of us like these things and want to make them work.

I would like a dollar for every time i have heard that, a side note to all the threads you claim to have read is that a fair percentage of the guys that started those threads have changed back to the original set up simply to find out how easy it is to tune these bikes with the stock setup.The problem  is that most people here that think their bike runs well with pods, really don't know how well these bikes really run and how easy they are to tune when set up properly. If you have read all the info on this site and still wish to persist, you will be settling for second best, your bike will never run as good as the stock set up with stock carbs and airbox {reasons are clearly stated in posts you have already read, it's physics not opinion} , if thats what you want then proceed and have fun.....  The closest you will get is to find pods with inbuilt velocity stacks, not perfect but better than anything else.

I dont want to be a dick here, but I have read the posts that say exactly what you just said.  I understand that argument, and I understand its validity.  I understand that you will never get the exact same performance with a set of pod filters that you will with the factory setup.  Simple fact is, I like them.  I like how they look.  I like how they allow you to clean up the look of the bike.  If I was looking for a performance bike, I would have gotten a new Ducati, not a 70's honda.  So please, if you have a set-up that you are HAPPY WITH, please post it.  Otherwise, there are plenty of threads that already argue their usage.

Offline db22

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Re: POD Filter Tuning
« Reply #8 on: April 10, 2012, 05:33:21 AM »
One of the pleasures of working on a bike, as opposed to a car, is the accessibility of the engine.  A klutz like me can barely change the oil on a modern auto, but I learned to do complete tune-ups on my old Honda.  I tried pods, then went back to the factory induction setup, and found that I needed to fiddle around with the carbs as much with the airbox as with pods.  Remember that my '75 engine came with '77 carbs (I'd love to know how that happened!). 

The UNI foam pods seem to be a good compromise -- clean air to the engine and smooth running.  It now accelerates to 75 without a cough, and a timid old geek like me isn't likely to push it any further.  If the airbox could improve performance, I would be hesitant to use the additional speed anyway.

Mighty550 brought up the aesthetic issue.  There is something appealing about the stripped-down and simplified approach to a motorcycle -- frame, wheels, engine and little more.  Maybe a SOHC4 isn't the best platform for this, but a CB550 is what I have.  I guess I'll keep an eye out for a big single.
1975 CB550K (rider)
1975 CB550K (shaping up, slowly)
I may be goin' to hell in a bucket, but at least I'm enjoyin' the ride. . .

Offline Retro Rocket

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Re: POD Filter Tuning
« Reply #9 on: April 10, 2012, 04:09:45 PM »
Quote
  Bottom line is, some of us like these things and want to make them work.

I would like a dollar for every time i have heard that, a side note to all the threads you claim to have read is that a fair percentage of the guys that started those threads have changed back to the original set up simply to find out how easy it is to tune these bikes with the stock setup.The problem  is that most people here that think their bike runs well with pods, really don't know how well these bikes really run and how easy they are to tune when set up properly. If you have read all the info on this site and still wish to persist, you will be settling for second best, your bike will never run as good as the stock set up with stock carbs and airbox {reasons are clearly stated in posts you have already read, it's physics not opinion} , if thats what you want then proceed and have fun.....  The closest you will get is to find pods with inbuilt velocity stacks, not perfect but better than anything else.

I dont want to be a dick here, but I have read the posts that say exactly what you just said.  I understand that argument, and I understand its validity.  I understand that you will never get the exact same performance with a set of pod filters that you will with the factory setup.  Simple fact is, I like them.  I like how they look.  I like how they allow you to clean up the look of the bike.  If I was looking for a performance bike, I would have gotten a new Ducati, not a 70's honda.  So please, if you have a set-up that you are HAPPY WITH, please post it.  Otherwise, there are plenty of threads that already argue their usage.

Did you read the last line.? There was some good advice there, velocity stacks with filters is the best way to go, the Honda carbs were designed to work in unison with velocity stacks and still air, you won't get still air with pods but you can get some K&N's with inbuilt stacks.
Of the 20+ Honda 4's i have owned the stock air box has been without doubt the best induction system and i am HAPPY WITH it.....{because it works properly}  It looks like you don't understand "performance" either, it isn't going fast in this instance, its the bike OPERATING or performing without hesitation in the lower RPM, no holes in Midrange and , well pods usually work better at the top of the rev range as that is what they are designed for. There is no one setting for pods so you will have to go the Trial and error route as most guys here do,  before going back to what works properly   :P....
750 K2 1000cc
750 F1 970cc
750 Bitsa 900cc
If You can't fix it with a hammer, You've got an electrical problem.