Topic: CB466 Street racer done, now with float issues!

[kyre]

So I've owned this bike for 8 years and have been a member on here since 2005 (although I dont post much since I usually find everything I need) but have never modified the engine since it's always ran great stock (although re-jetted with stacks from previous owner). I've recently had major head gasket leakage and figured it's engine rebuild time with the 466 big bore kit from eBay and other expensive bits.

I've already done a cb550 front end swap with tapered roller bearings, dual disk, 18inch front rim, progressive front springs, Gl1000 Master, clip-ons, works performance rear shocks, i handmade the fiberglass rear seat hump since at the time there wasn't any i liked out there with taillight/blinker combo and a free paint job that my old neighbor paid for since he knocked my bike down with his car and I found out. Oh and I found a YRS Yoshima exhaust (finally) on eBay a few months ago and got it ceramic coated black.

Here's the bike before "operation engine tear-down" and some pictures of the Yoshima and baffle I made since the one it came with fell apart.

[kyre]

Heres some photos of my head, cam and rockers. I'm getting head work from MRieck (and sent these photos to him) but wanted to post condition and if anybody else can tell from these photos if the wear is acceptable or not. Or if you need more info. This will be my frist engine rebuild but I'm pretty thorough and confident in the rebuild, but will be asking questions.

So far the hardest thing to get off are the old carb boot screws on the head. They won't come loose, even with an impact driver. tips? I'm not reusing them.

[OneWheelDrive]

So far the hardest thing to get off are the old carb boot screws on the head. They won't come loose, even with an impact driver. tips? I'm not reusing them.

Just drill them out, the head will fall off.  You could also just use a dremel to cut off the clamps as you say you're not re-using them.

Cam bearings and rockers look good to me.

I'd love to see a shot of that seat hump from the back.  Looks great!

[kyre]

Yeah I'll drill out the screws if I have to, thanks. I also bought the wrong sized flywheel puller 16mmx1.5mm so I have to return and get the correct size 18mmx1.5mm.

Here's a couple different shots of the seat hump.

[lucky]

Nice looking CB400F. Who did the seat?

The cam will be ok but just needs polishing. Rocker arm faces are ok too.
Remember the cam only turns 1/2 the speed of the crank max.


Ask the machinist if there is enough meat on the end of the cam for a needle roller bearing. Go to a bearing supply house and see what they have.
They used to put needle roller bearings on the old CB350 twins and they would rev to 10,000 or more.

[kyre]

Thanks Lucky. I made the seat myself but had a hotrod upholsterer do the vinyl.

That's interesting about the needle roller bearings, I'll look into it.

Not sure if you or anybody else knows but I need a flywheel puller and the one I bought from Z-1 isn't the right size. Apparently Honda changed the size through production runs. I bought a 16mmx1.5mm and I need an 18mmx1.5mm. Z-1 has a couple different ones.

http://www.z1enterprises.com/Flywheel-Puller-18mm-x-15mm-RH-Internal--Kawasaki-2163.aspx

http://www.z1enterprises.com/Flywheel-Puller-18mm-x-15mm-RH-Internal-Hollow-Honda-2175.aspx

I know one says it's for a Kawasaki but it's the same diameter and thread pitch but just looks longer. The shorter one says hollow.

This is the 16mm one I bought
http://www.z1enterprises.com/Flywheel-Puller-16mm-x-15mm-RH-Internal-Honda-Kawasaki-Suzuki-Yamaha-2176.aspx

My question is, should I just get the longer 18mm one since the 16mm looks to be about the same length? I just dont want the short one to be too short and I don't think I need a hollow one.

Any tips would be appreciated, this is slowing my tear down!

[Kevin]

Subscribed

[kyre]

ok Kevin, you motivated me to at least post a few progress picts. Got some lovely parts from Kevin TTR, powdercoated various parts, got my cb550 rotors thinned and drilled (seriously both now weigh the same as one stock). I have my cases glass blasted and started to put the bottom end together but am waiting on a few extra parts (hopefully this week). Mike Rieck also just emailed and said my head is ready! so this should be ready just in time for the first snow fall! ha.

Will update more as I progress.

[BCBarker]

NICE! I have a 350F that is just starting to leak from the head. This is GREAT inspiration.

[Mugen_Stumpo]

i love this bike...

just a question: why you're brake seems to be mounted backward, i mean facing the rear...

[MRieck]

Just stumbled upon this thread. Nice work D . I ;Dt should go as good as it looks!

[kyre]

Yeah Mike I'm super excited to get this all together, but am not going to rush it.

Mugen_stumpo - I flipped the calipers and have been riding with them like this for about 8 years. It is/was a common mod with dual disks. Puts the hydraulic lines in the back and I guess brings the swinging weight closer to the pivot of the fork. All (most) modern bikes have the calipers running behind the forks. Use the google search for "dual disk caliper back" and you'll get a bunch of results.

I'm contemplating whether to flip them back or keep them behind the forks. The original mounting position looks a bit more period correct.

[Robbnc]

Thanks Lucky. I made the seat myself but had a hotrod upholsterer do the vinyl.

That's interesting about the needle roller bearings, I'll look into it.

Not sure if you or anybody else knows but I need a flywheel puller and the one I bought from Z-1 isn't the right size. Apparently Honda changed the size through production runs. I bought a 16mmx1.5mm and I need an 18mmx1.5mm. Z-1 has a couple different ones.

http://www.z1enterprises.com/Flywheel-Puller-18mm-x-15mm-RH-Internal--Kawasaki-2163.aspx

http://www.z1enterprises.com/Flywheel-Puller-18mm-x-15mm-RH-Internal-Hollow-Honda-2175.aspx

I know one says it's for a Kawasaki but it's the same diameter and thread pitch but just looks longer. The shorter one says hollow.

This is the 16mm one I bought
http://www.z1enterprises.com/Flywheel-Puller-16mm-x-15mm-RH-Internal-Honda-Kawasaki-Suzuki-Yamaha-2176.aspx

My question is, should I just get the longer 18mm one since the 16mm looks to be about the same length? I just dont want the short one to be too short and I don't think I need a hollow one.

Any tips would be appreciated, this is slowing my tear down!

I just used a M18-1.5 oil drain plug that I got at Autozone for $3.   It worked like a charm, I think I had to add a thick washer.

[jackseattle]

just found this, interesting build, subscribed.  Why the front end swap with a CB550 instead of something later?

[MRieck]

This bike should be a little killer. Wait till the spring I'd say. Kevin struck me as a patient, meticulous fella. It will be a little giant killer.

[kyre]

jackseattle, 550 front end because I wanted a dual disk set up with thicker fork tubes and an easy swap. I did this about 8 years ago and there wasn't much on converting more modern forks, and I'm not a huge fan of the look anyways. I wanted the period look of the 550. They work great for me.

I'm waiting on a few things still for this build, but I am making sure I replace anything that needs it. Hondaman has my swingarm and I was waiting on APE's HD cylinder studs (see below) which I just got on Friday. I "thought" I'd have my top end finally together this weekend but I can't get 7 of the old studs out! I tried double nutting (too sketchy), heat, vice-grips, penetrating oil... I think I'm going to weld a nut to the base of the old studs.

Here's a crappy photo of the half roller too (until I get my swingarm back)

[jackseattle]

thanks, I like the look with the beefier 550 fork tubes.  The old school calipers look so much better where you put them.  Big fan of Kevin's work as well.

[kyre]

Update time! 466 engine is almost ready to be put in the frame. Put the HD studs from APE in. The old studs were a PIA to get our of the case. I rented a stud puller from Aurozone and it worked really well actually.





Got the new pistons in semi-easily. I tried the hose-clamp method but decided against it as I felt like I'd break something so I put them in by hand. 2 hours and a few cuts later they're all in. Not much chamfer at the bottom with a 466 kit.


Got my MRieck Stage 2 head back awhile ago and finally got to install! Super excited about this.



I'm going to put the clutch/rotor/oil pump on when it's in the frame, but I couldn't resist putting the covers on to see what it'll look like together.



Once I get my swingarm back from HondaMan I'll have a roller with engine in it!

[iron_worker]

That engine is looking great. Very clean assembly and good color combo.

IW

[Mugen_Stumpo]

great finned cover... where do you got it?

[kyre]

I got the finned points and dyno side covers from eBay for about $90 but I found the same covers here - http://www.liquidchopperstore.com/mc2629.html

A little more money but those are the same. Mine came in the same box as they're showing. It's for the cb350f but fits the 400F the same.

[kslrr]

You might think about having the cam weld built-up and ground for higher lift and duration.  I did that to my CB350F back in the '80's, though I can't recall what the final specs are.

[kyre]

That was the initial plan kslrr, as well as Hard welding the surface area on the rockers but costs got a bit out of hand. Sticking with the stock cam for now...

[iron_worker]

Engine build costs can definitely get out of control quickly.

IW

[kyre]

Got my swingarm back from Hondaman so I was able to build a roller finally! slow and steady...