Author Topic: CB466 Street racer done, now with float issues! (Read 18850 times)

kyre · « **Reply #25 on:** March 29, 2013, 04:16:03 PM »

Got a lot of the small stuff completed in the minimal amount of time I've had lately. Wiring harness cleanup is coming up next on my list. I need to get some bullet connectors from vintage connections. I'm so ready for this to be "done" so I can ride!

kyre · « **Reply #26 on:** March 29, 2013, 04:22:14 PM »

Also since I put small headlight ears on (to hug the headlight close to the frame) the stock bucket doesn't fit. Rather than buy a new headlight I'm going to trim the bucket in and reinforce the inside with fiberglass then paint black.

Powderman · « **Reply #27 on:** March 29, 2013, 06:04:08 PM »

Couple questions. What did Hondaman do to your swing arm? Would you mind taking the measurements of the Yoshi pipe? Diameter, length before and after the bend. Those are usually ungodly expensive for what I could make for about $20.

Mugen_Stumpo · « **Reply #28 on:** March 30, 2013, 01:14:53 PM »

woah... amazing job!!!

kyre · « **Reply #29 on:** March 31, 2013, 09:08:00 AM »

Powderman, Hondaman rebuilds the stock swingarm and adds bronze bushings and a whole lot more, check his site for more info - http://tinyurl.com/dyenwjh

Also see attached for the yoshima measurements. If you can build one of these for $20 you'll have a lot of customers! Please post results if you get around to building one.

kyre · « **Reply #30 on:** April 01, 2013, 07:47:30 AM »

Modified the headlight bucket to fit the smaller ears, also made a bracket to fit the acewell speedo. Love how compact its starting to look in instrument area. Now I have to relocate the key switch. Bought one from a cb350f, hoping to relocate near the horn under the tank.

I also started tackling the #$%* show of a wiring harness. It's been messed with big time by the previous owner. Always worked but its a mess and I'm reducing some wires. No front blinkers, no clutch safety and no starter.

On the last pic when eliminating the starter solenoid should I just solder the two large wires together that go to the battery?

kslrr · « **Reply #31 on:** April 01, 2013, 07:58:26 AM »

You could fab up a post to terminate the 2 wires on so that you have a +12v power tap for any future needs.

kyre · « **Reply #32 on:** June 22, 2013, 04:40:04 PM »

Long time, but I have finally finished my bike and its running pretty damn good, but still needs finesse of course. It's scary fast compared to a stocker and sounds amazing with the yoshima.

A few things I'm dealing with are...

1. Front brakes (dual disks from a 550 with thinned rotors) that ever so slightly still rub. I feel the piston isn't retracting as much as it should or having the thinned rotors makes the piston come out too far?

2. I'm getting some fuel overflow (stock 21mm height) only when I run the bike and stop look down. I see some dribble on the exhaust and it looks to be all 4. I need to take apart again and look for cracks on the brass tube. Doesn't leak just sitting still even with gas on. New honda oem floats on all 4 too with new seats.

3. Last thing is this bike runs HOT. Yes it was mid 80's today but still. No oil cooler (yet) and no temp gauge. I'm using straight 30w break in oil from Penn Grade. When I stopped riding the bike I checked the oil (had to use gloves to open the dip stick it was so hot) and the oil dripped like water. So thin. Normal? I know a 466 with bored carbs and an open exhaust will run hot, just hope I'm not damaging it. Runs amazing but I haven't taken it out on a long ride yet due especially because the fuel overflow issue. That and a super hot engine don't instill confidence quite yet.

kghost · « **Reply #33 on:** June 22, 2013, 09:34:23 PM »

Looks really nice!

Mugen_Stumpo · « **Reply #34 on:** June 23, 2013, 05:45:06 AM »

WOHA

knowsnothing · « **Reply #35 on:** June 23, 2013, 03:11:56 PM »

Bike looks great. Be careful, leaky gas + hot engine = fire. That would be a real shame....

kyre · « **Reply #36 on:** June 23, 2013, 03:49:45 PM »

Yeah it's a bummer the floats are overflowing. Took them apart today and checked the brass overflow tubes in the bowls and there are no cracks.

The float needle valve and seats are new oem on all four. I did notice today that the new valves were all metal and no rubber tip. My old valves never leaked and are rubber tipped. Wondering if I should try putting the old valves in or somehow try to lap them to their seats. Top is new, bottom old.

I definitely don't want to run with fuel overflowing.

knowsnothing · « **Reply #37 on:** June 23, 2013, 06:08:51 PM »

I am having a similar issue with my 350f. Gas on, no overflow. Gas on running with choke, overflow. Gas on, running no choke, 90% no overflow. It also isnt always the same bowls, it jumps around. Its the weirdest thing.

I have to pull the carbs again myself to try and figure out what the hell is going on.

iron_worker · « **Reply #38 on:** June 24, 2013, 07:27:39 AM »

The metal needle almost looks longer than the rubber tipped one. Is it the correct part?

IW

kyre · « **Reply #39 on:** June 24, 2013, 05:01:46 PM »

I know I'm a bit confused too. They do look different besides the rubber tip but I just double checked my order from service Honda and the new valve (top) are "correct". Part #16011-329-004

Ill have to double check the length tomorrow but the new do look a bit longer.. Not sure that would make them overflow though (only some dribbling after riding, never just sitting still even with gas on)

HondaMan · « **Reply #40 on:** June 24, 2013, 05:28:41 PM »

I know yours isn't the 750, but...in my book I show details on the "float tang dimple" problem these bikes have developed, just because of their age. Look closely on the float tangs where the valve tip presses, and you will see a tiny divot. This cocks the tip of the valve to the side and makes it not seal all the way into the seat, and the bowls overflow. VERY common. Gently file it smooth with a needle file, then polish with 400 grit (1000 is better) emery paper, or the tip of a Dremel polishing bit. This should stop it.

kyre · « **Reply #41 on:** June 24, 2013, 05:52:58 PM »

Whoa, I never would have thought of looking for that. You're talking about where the valve needle touches the float? Crazy it would affect it that much. I'll check tomorrow. Thanks HondaMan!

iron_worker · « **Reply #42 on:** June 25, 2013, 07:39:03 AM »

Makes sense. If the needle is being jammed into the seat at an angle it may just bind up instead of fully seating all the way.

Great tip Hondaman.

IW

Kemp · « **Reply #43 on:** June 25, 2013, 08:30:15 AM »

Wow, does that explain all the issues I've had with leaking carbs after a complete rebuild. I've had these issues not just with the 400/4 but with several of my CB550 cafe builds. Drove me crazy! My solution after everything else was tried and tested was to modify the float height by a "few" millimeters but it never really made sense. I actually have the Hondaman book but haven't worked on my 750 yet so.... didn't know! His solution really makes sense.

kyre · « **Reply #44 on:** June 25, 2013, 10:53:50 AM »

Yeah it does make sense. Can't wait to check tonight. Even though I don't have a cb750 I feel like I need to buy HondaMan's book. I bet there's a
fair amount of overlap that could pertain to all sohc4 models.

knowsnothing · « **Reply #45 on:** June 26, 2013, 06:44:46 AM »

Quote from: kyre on June 25, 2013, 10:53:50 AM

Yeah it does make sense. Can't wait to check tonight. Even though I don't have a cb750 I feel like I need to buy HondaMan's book. I bet there's a
fair amount of overlap that could pertain to all sohc4 models.

Did you find anything? Inquiring minds want to know.

kyre · « **Reply #46 on:** June 26, 2013, 07:18:27 AM »

I went to my shop last night and did notice little dimples on the tangs.

Hard to believe it would do anything but I did flatten out then polished.

hard to tell they're polished.

I did notice after I installed the floats back and set the height that when I put the carbs upside down the weight of the floats don't completely close the valve. Not sure this matters or not yet. They are new oem.

Also the new float valve is a bit longer than my old valve. New on right.

Anyways I got everything all together but didn't have time to ride the bike. I did start it and nothing leaked but again it never did that before. I have to ride to find out which my not happen until tomorrow unfortunately. Will keep you posted!

iron_worker · « **Reply #47 on:** June 26, 2013, 07:41:07 AM »

Do you mean the weight of the float doesn't completely compress the little spring pin in the end of the needle? If so, that doesn't matter. It's the buoyancy force of the float that holds the needle in place not it's weight. I believe the spring pin is only there to "dampen" the action of the float needle. If the fuel is sloshing around inside then then the float has a bit of room to "jiggle around" a bit (for lack of a better term) before actually opening the valve.

IW

kyre · « **Reply #48 on:** June 26, 2013, 08:32:40 AM »

Yeah the weight of the float doesn't completely compress the little spring. Thanks for clarifying, glad that's not another issue I have to deal with. Had to mention as you never know!

I'm really hoping I don't get anymore overflow while riding, but like I said I have to wait until tomorrow until I can actually ride the bike and find out.

Another completely different topic if anybody can help. My engine gets crazy hot and the oil is like water after a ride. It is super hot out right now, I'm in NYC so a lot of stop/go and I'm running straight 30w Penn Grade break-in oil with lots of zinc. Just wondering if I'm going to damage anything? Should I change to 20/50?? I've been meaning to go on a longer ride outside the city but to do so I have to travel a good distance to get out of the traffic zone and until the float issue is resolved I won't be travelling too far yet.

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #49 on:** June 26, 2013, 09:02:55 AM »

Personally I like to use 20/50 for a city bike. Since our SOHC's are air cooled, traffic is not our friend and any little bit of extra heat pretection is worthwhile. I might even consider synthetic, despite my personal belief that it doesn't play well with our wet clutch systems.

If I were to use my bike as a regular commuter here in Chicago, where our traffic is even worse than yours (I've driven in NYC), an oil cooler would be a must. I got stuck in a major accident jam a few years ago with my 550. It took me an hour to cover about 2 miles. I could smell the heat coming off the engine. I finally had to pull over and shut the engine off for about 10 minutes to cool off.

News:

Author Topic: CB466 Street racer done, now with float issues! (Read 18850 times)