The definition of contact ignition dwell is: 'the number of degrees of distributor rotation with the points closed'.
Hmmmm... which distributor would that be?
The Honda lost spark system is somewhat equivalent to a 2-cylinder engine with a distributor. One "distributor rotation" is two turns of the crankshaft and each 360 degree full turn of the crank is 180 distributor degrees. Thus 90 degree dwell would have the points closed for half the turn.
Increasing dwell isn't necessarily good. You need enough closed time to ensure the coil saturates, Kettering systems characteristically give weaker spark at high RPM as the coil gets less and less time with power appplied. At high RPM you also need to leave the points open long enough to let the spark discharge, the spark isn't instantaneous upon the points opening because of the capacitor which essentially delays the spark a bit so that the points are open enough that there's no spark across them.
If you're reading 52 I would assume this means actual 104 degrees dwell and your points gap is a bit small, not horribly small though. If it really IS 52 degrees then something is badly amiss in the points area.
The points, plate and engine are imperfect so the points sets are never - maybe occasionally by accident - exactly 180 degrees from each other. Usually one sets both gaps to spec and then sets the 1-4 timing, after that the 2-3 timing can only be adjusted relative to the 1/4 by adjusting the 2-3 points gap... so only very rarely is the 2-3 points set to exactly the "spec" gap (or dwell angle). Really anal tuners will try to have one points set a bit wide and the other a bit tight.
If your points cam is in good shape, you can set the points gap via dwell. If you know gap vs dwell on a good cam you can tell a worn cam by measuring both and comparing.
For a street engine I would set the 2 gaps as close as possible to spec and see if I can get the timing correct... OK, honestly, I would install an electronic ignition and forget what dwell means.
You can use the dwell meter to check for points problems, it should stay constant from idle to redline. Futzing around at high RPM usually means the points are bouncing off the cam and need to be replaced - worn out springs.