Author Topic: Now What? (Read 18377 times)

shade · « **Reply #100 on:** May 03, 2012, 04:35:09 PM »

A small bit of progress can make a big mental difference. Lightly sanded the fuse holders and replaced the fuses...

shade · « **Reply #101 on:** May 03, 2012, 04:36:03 PM »

The replaced Fuse Box:

shade · « **Reply #102 on:** May 03, 2012, 04:55:03 PM »

So I guess I need to do a compression test. I have to buy a tester, which I will probably just get off of ebay or maybe a flea market over the weekend. The question I have now is can I do a compression test without the electric starter working?

grcamna2 · « **Reply #103 on:** May 03, 2012, 06:45:28 PM »

Yes..but it's a lot of excersize for your right leg..and you have to kick it very fast until you reach maximum pressure.

Accolay · « **Reply #104 on:** May 04, 2012, 12:51:37 AM »

Quote from: shade on May 03, 2012, 04:35:09 PM

A small bit of progress can make a big mental difference. Lightly sanded the fuse holders and replaced the fuses...

Mr Burns - Excellent

So, I can't remember- does your starter not work? What happens now that you have power? What other maintenance have you done? I think I remember you changed the oil and spark plugs...did you set static timing? I can't remember. You also need to adjust the cam chain tension, adjust the tappets etc. 3000 mile maintenance items.

shade · « **Reply #105 on:** May 04, 2012, 06:55:37 AM »

The electrical starter does not work. I figure I should start working on that if I want to do the compression test. Doing research but any suggestions?
As far as maintenance goes so far I have:
Changed the oil.
Replaced the Spark Plugs.
Cleaned and set the points.
Cleaned the gas tank and fuel filter.
Replaced the battery.
Replaced the fuses.
Replaced the key.
Removed and cleaned the carburetor (2x) I haven't done a full "soak."

I think that's it.

shade · « **Reply #106 on:** May 04, 2012, 08:23:10 AM »

Morning Update

Took apart the Right Handlebar Controls and with a little jiggling the electric start works. Should have a compression tester by this weekend, and might remove the carburetors again today.
I also just got a used Air Cleaner Chamber because mine was cracked and had a big hole in it. So I will switch that out too.

Sorry if I am over-posting, and thanks for all the help.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #107 on:** May 04, 2012, 10:12:53 AM »

When you do the compression test, just to be sure you know it's:
start w/ a fully warmed up engine,remove all the spark plugs & install the compression gauge in one hole at a time,have the choke butterfly's full open and crank over w/ the starter while holding the throttle wide open until the compression numbers level off..record the results for each cylinder.

Accolay · « **Reply #108 on:** May 04, 2012, 11:00:11 AM »

-adjust tappets
-adjust cam chain
-you replaced the plugs, but did you set the spark plug gap? Just checking.
-clean the air filter

Then you can make sure the brakes work and are adjusted, replace the tires/tubes and get the carbs synched, adjust the clutch, lube the swing arm, check the drive chain and adjust, fork oil...

shade · « **Reply #109 on:** May 04, 2012, 02:32:59 PM »

I did set the spark plug gaps, but thanks for asking.

I appreciate the enthusiasm but I am not going near the brakes, tires, etc until the engine runs. Does the engine have to be warmed up to perform a compression test? That will be problem as the bike does not run.

Today I checked the floats and one was off so set that properly, not doing anything else until I do the compression test...

grcamna2 · « **Reply #110 on:** May 04, 2012, 02:37:48 PM »

The engine needs to be warmed up to do a compression test..if you do it with out running the engine first, your readings won't be accurate;what's keeping it from starting ?

shade · « **Reply #111 on:** May 04, 2012, 02:43:00 PM »

Quote from: grcamna2 on May 04, 2012, 02:37:48 PM

The engine needs to be warmed up to do a compression test..if you do it with out running the engine first, your readings won't be accurate;what's keeping it from starting ?

I have no idea what is preventing the bike from starting...

grcamna2 · « **Reply #112 on:** May 04, 2012, 02:51:13 PM »

It's good that you've got the electric start to function..and w/ the rest of these items on the list it should go.Folks have done a "cold" compression test, but they always read too low...;adjust your valves before you do the compression test, whether w/ warm engine or cold.

shade · « **Reply #113 on:** May 04, 2012, 02:53:40 PM »

Quote from: grcamna2 on May 04, 2012, 02:51:13 PM

It's good that you've got the electric start to function..and w/ the rest of these items on the list it should go.Folks have done a "cold" compression test, but they always read too low...;adjust your valves before you do the compression test, whether w/ warm engine or cold.

OK I will start to research how to adjust the valves, thanks.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #114 on:** May 04, 2012, 03:00:30 PM »

I'm glad you're so persistent to keep at it;sometimes these things can make you want to throw a tool..,or just walk away for a good bit.

shade · « **Reply #115 on:** May 04, 2012, 03:03:36 PM »

Quote from: grcamna2 on May 04, 2012, 03:00:30 PM

I'm glad you're so persistent to keep at it;sometimes these things can make you want to throw a tool..,or just walk away for a good bit.

after today, i am definitely walking away for a bit. maybe take the weekend without going near that bike. i smashed my finger pretty good and was ready to roll it out onto the street.
but i will not be giving up! for now...

grcamna2 · « **Reply #116 on:** May 04, 2012, 03:15:43 PM »

Good

, then we WILL get it running..

shorty24 · « **Reply #117 on:** May 04, 2012, 06:06:32 PM »

Another tip from experience "inheriting" a bike that I have to fix up: it's not a bad idea to completely replace the stock fuse box with blade style fuses. Even after I cleaned up the contacts on my fuse box they kept shorting and melting things, keeping the bike from running...

grcamna2 · « **Reply #118 on:** May 04, 2012, 06:22:23 PM »

Quote from: shorty24 on May 04, 2012, 06:06:32 PM

Another tip from experience "inheriting" a bike that I have to fix up: it's not a bad idea to completely replace the stock fuse box with blade style fuses. Even after I cleaned up the contacts on my fuse box they kept shorting and melting things, keeping the bike from running...

+1

Accolay · « **Reply #119 on:** May 06, 2012, 12:22:41 PM »

Quote from: shorty24 on May 04, 2012, 06:06:32 PM

Another tip from experience "inheriting" a bike that I have to fix up: it's not a bad idea to completely replace the stock fuse box with blade style fuses. Even after I cleaned up the contacts on my fuse box they kept shorting and melting things, keeping the bike from running...

I'd agree with the caveat that if you clean up the fuse box and it's still melting, then you need to clean up all of the rest of the fuse harness and other metal contacts to decrease resistance in the electrical system. The best reason I think to replace to blade style fuses is because they are available everywhere now, unlike the glass style fuses.

Good work Shade. The most frustrating thing when working on your only bike is hearing other bikes out in the street ride by. Keep your attitude positive and you will get this running.

shade · « **Reply #120 on:** May 07, 2012, 06:44:11 AM »

I will hopefully have my compression tester by the end of the week. I have been researching as much as I can on valve adjustment but can't find much particular to the CB550. Can anyone direct me to some good information on this subject that has hopefully been dumbed down for a novice like myself?

grcamna2 · « **Reply #121 on:** May 07, 2012, 07:27:59 AM »

Accolay · « **Reply #122 on:** May 07, 2012, 08:13:56 AM »

http://www.dansmc.com/valveclearence.htm

Dan's MC pages are a great resource. Read that bit and then use the Honda manual.

754 · « **Reply #123 on:** May 07, 2012, 08:24:37 AM »

I think they are BSing you a bit here on compression testing..
I mean you wont get a final result but you will get a TELLING reszult...ie you have a bad cylinder, or you have them all pretty close.. , you have very little compression, ot you have quite a lot..
If you have even medium compression (or any) it will probably run, , if it runs for a while, it will probably go up.
But if it has very little, then you may be looking at a lot fmore work on it, ie tearing apart..

Fairly simple.... but can be turned into complicated by some...imo..

750K · « **Reply #124 on:** May 07, 2012, 08:35:31 AM »

Quote from: 754 on May 07, 2012, 08:24:37 AM

I think they are BSing you a bit here on compression testing..
I mean you wont get a final result but you will get a TELLING reszult...ie you have a bad cylinder, or you have them all pretty close.. , you have very little compression, ot you have quite a lot..
If you have even medium compression (or any) it will probably run, , if it runs for a while, it will probably go up.
But if it has very little, then you may be looking at a lot fmore work on it, ie tearing apart..

Fairly simple.... but can be turned into complicated by some...imo..

Exactly, doing a cold compression check will still tell you something. Hopefully you will see similar psi readings across all cylinders, you want to see them within 10% of eachother. I just did a cold compression test on a kz1000 that hasnt run since 97, I poured an equal amount of oil down each plug hole and turned it over by hand first. I hit 150-155psi across all 4 cylinders, which was good to see. Pretty sure it will rise a bit once the bike is running and the motor is warm.

News:

Author Topic: Now What? (Read 18377 times)