Topic: Clutch Adjustment Screw Will Not Budge *NOW BROKEN*

[Tamothy]

In my efforts to adjust the clutch I found that the adjustment screw in the side case will not budge.  I loosened, and removed, the set nut and the screw won't move.  Where do I go from here?  I have never done ANY clutch work except for adjusting cables.

Bike is a 1977 CB550F

Thanks!

[dave500]

back all the slack of the cable,,then carefully try and rock that screw back and forth,make sure your screw driver is correct and sharp.

[Tamothy]

Sorry Dave, Are you saying to have the cable completely slack or no slack?

[TwoTired]

If you can move the short lever on the case at all by hand, then the tension is taken off the adjustment screw.  If it still won't budge, you'll need to take off the clutch cover to find out why.  Drain the oil first.

Have you tried some penetrating lube on the screw stud.   50/50 atf and acetone works as well as if not better than many.

Cheers,

[dave500]

make the cables slack,the screw dosent actually thread into the case,it screws inside in the release lever,if it too tight dont force it,as tt said youll have to remove the cover and have a look,those slots in the screw break easy.

[Tamothy]

Well, I've done it this time.  The screw adjuster has a broken ear.  Yes, they do break easily.  I know, I know, I know. . .damn.
So, I guess this means I need to take the case off and look into fixing it.

This bike was last plated in '88, until today!  Running on a cylinders 1,3, and 4 (kinda) when I got it.  Rebuilt carbs, new throttle cables, fuel lines, valve lash adjustment, battery. . .runs on all four!  Did a compression test this afternoon (first time), and got readings from 111 to 121. . .something between 8 or 9% difference.  Not too good. . .

I rode it yesterday after I got it fired up. . .seemed to be dragging.  Maybe the clutch is suspect?

Any tips on removing the clutch case and fixing this broken clutch adjuster?

Two Tired, my bike is the same blue as the one in your picture.

Thanks

[luap]

Impact driver to bust the old screw loose, going to need to get a clutch cover gasket once you pull it, id get some new ecb plates/springs  an clean the metal plates with steel wool, repair what broke an when putting back together remember to have the spring behind the lever , an its easier to clean the old gasket off with the clutch basket off an out of the way
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=102331.0
 good pictures on that thread

[Tamothy]

It appears that I have to remove the header to access some of the clutch cover screws with an impact driver.  Am I missing something here, because I haven't found where any manual says this is necessary?  But there is no way I can an impact driver straight on some of these screw behind the header.

[Tamothy]

I had to remove the header.  What I found was that the adjuster screw had been backed out all of the way to where it flanged apart (at the end to stop screw from being fully extracted from the cylinder pivot).

Has anyone had to deal with this issue?  I found a whole lever assembly for sale, but it would be great if I could get that cylinder pivot adjuster screw out of the lever and just replace those.  I can't let this bike get too pricey! It is already getting away from me a little bit.

I could grind the flared (flange) end of the adjuster screw and then remove it, possibly salvage the pivot cylinder (rod, bar, you know what piece I am talking about?).  But finding  something to replace the adjuster screw could be taxing.  Maybe find some threaded rod and tig weld a washer on it.

Like I asked, has anyone had to deal with this before?  I am thinking DEFINITELY people have had to deal with this! 

One more quick thought, I could cut the other tab off, drill a hole in the end of the screw and insert something.  Maybe I little rod with a "T" at the end for an adjustment handle.  Solder the rod into the screw and solder the "T" joint.  I would definitely need to find a friend that could help machining a centered hole in the end of the screw (it's pretty small!) and help me solder it.  I have soldered non-ferrous metal (some years ago), but have no experience or equipment and materials to do the job.

Sorry for these long explanations.... 

Photo 1 - Broken tab
Photo 2 - Flange on screw behind pivot cylinder
Photo 3 - Lever assembly before removal

[Tamothy]

And this is the screw I speak of!  How can I replace this little bugger?  Is there a name for this type of fastener? It would not need to be flanged or cut for a flat head screw driver.

[dave500]

just get a new lever with the screw on it already.

[Tamothy]

Dang!