Topic: Rough Idle 1975 CB360T

[GreenHornet74]

Hey guys I'm hoping ya'll 360T experts can help me on this one. My buddy has a 75 cb360t running pod filters, 2-1 exhaust with no baffle, and 130 main jets. We've adjusted the cam tension, rebuilt the carbs, cleaned the tank of debris and valve adjustment. A mechanic did the timing on it as well. I cut back 1/4in on the spark plug wires for better connection. The problem is keeping a steady idle. After adjusting the idle it will run fine but then either rev up or down. When it sounds like its idling too low I'll try to give it a twist on the throttle and it will instantly kill the engine. At normal speeds it performs fine. Any help or ideas? Also how many turns out on the idle mixture screw should one do?

[grcamna2]

It'd be good to check the color of the spark plugs to see if you're jets are the right size..also check you're spark advancer unit and see if the springs are stretched out;I have a nice spark advance unit w/ very low miles...

[GreenHornet74]

Will do. Do you happen to know how many turns out on the idle mixture screw?

[grcamna2]

Well the stock adjustment for the idle mixture screws wouldn't apply at this point seeing that you have pods & open aftermarket exhaust.The float height should be set to factory specs though w/ a decent float level gauge.Have the carbs been rebuilt ?

[CycleRanger]

I didn't see carb sync included in your list, if that hasn't been done.
And check for vacuum leaks.

Also, you might check over at http://www.hondatwins.net/forum/ for more advice.
 

[thrutheframe]

Do the WD40 trick on the carb to head inlets.  If the idle goes up when you spray WD40 on there you have an air leak.  Make sure to isolate the spray when doing this, you don't wanna be chasing your tail by getting it into the carbs via the pods.

[grcamna2]

GreenH,
     When you rebuilt the carbs were you thorough and clean out All the passages & jets along w/ All new O.E.Honda O-rings & set the float height & check the slide diaphrams for pin holes or cracks ?

[GreenHornet74]

When I rebuilt the carbs I made sure every orifice was clean, checked with visually & with compressed air. OEM kit was purchased through Z1. I adjusted the floats to OEM specs, the diaphrams were the clean (no pin holes/cracks). I performed the carb sync, used all the extentions we had  . Checked the spark plugs and they look fine (tan color). Sunday is the next day we could work on it so I'll check the  spark advancer, timing & point gaps, and vacuum leaks.

We also notice that during the rough idle there are times when the carbs want to shoot back or pop off. Not sure if i'm describing it correctly.

[grcamna2]

It would be good to adjust the valves(engine cold)and do a compression test(engine hot)w/ throttle held wide open during the test.

[GreenHornet74]

It would be good to adjust the valves(engine cold)and do a compression test(engine hot)w/ throttle held wide open during the test.

Done the valves and compression test (dry & with oil) when the engine was cold. Cylinder 2 was a tad on the lower side but not crucial. I'll try the compression test when hot.

[grcamna2]

Yeah, let us know how those compression numbers turn out.

[GreenHornet74]

Latest news: So the main problem seems to be the foam filters. Apparently filter oil was seeping in with the air mixture due to over-oiling. The bike seems to run better with no air filters. Still haven't done the compression test. Theres a new problem now, got a flat over the weekend 

[grcamna2]

That over-oiling,well...I've been guilty of that in the past w/ a K&N filter in my Yamaha it definitely fouled my plugs,etc.

[thrutheframe]

You get your flat fixed?

[GreenHornet74]

Haha, yeah got the flat fixed. Over the weekend we ran into an electrical problem. It was running fine, then everything died. No power :/