Topic: brought it home for $300...

[jessezm]

If I read his post above right, I think I would need to split the cases to get to the part he mentioned....  It does look like that basket comes off by removing the tabbed thrust washer and a snap ring, but I don't know for sure...

[grcamna2]

I think it should slide right off once you remove that snap ring.

[CycleRanger]

Shouldn't be a snap ring for that year motor.

[jessezm]

I thought I spied one behind the washer, but I'll have to look again when I get home.  Not that this means anything, but the original owner told me that he was pretty sure it did not have the stock clutch in it, but one that accepted a plate or two more, and that this was done by his engine builder.  I'll have a closer look this afternoon though. 

[faux fiddy]

Don't I know it. I'm up to 14 bikes now, and you?   

Five at home and two  and a half at a friend's shop.  Hardly even got into them, mostly disassembly so penetrating oil is a main expense, except for the lifetime supply of carb kits and the other random $100 a month stuff off e-bay.

[jessezm]

Well check this out!  PO said he had pics of the bike when it was originally a chopper.  A little googling and I found them!!!

http://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.php?fbid=262229547137512&set=a.192069477486853.57727.100000514064851&type=3&theater

http://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.php?fbid=266808966679570&set=a.192069477486853.57727.100000514064851&type=3&theater

[CycleRanger]

Before those without FB start grousing.

[jessezm]

Thanks!

[jessezm]

Shouldn't be a snap ring for that year motor.

Quite right.  I just took off the washer and the basket slid off.  Here's what I found:

[grcamna2]

I'm not as familiar w/ CB750's well enough to know what model/year K that clutch is meant to fit...

[HondaMan]

The "metal hub" thing I'm referring to is on the other side of the primary drive shaft: sorry for the confusion...it is inside the cases, too.

The metal tamping you still have is pretty rare! They disappeared with the 'old factory' K1 bikes. Those clutches had just 6 friction plates, 7 metal plates. The later ones have 7 friction plates, and the top plate changed from a steel one to the aluminum top hub pressure plate itself, by reversing the order of the plates as they were installed and having the inner hub's fingers shortened at the back to make up the extra distance needed (about 1mm) to make the stack-up come out right. Chances are, if that stamped ring is the original piece from this clutch, you also have the reinforced primary drive hub as well, because they came together.

So, search around for a K3-K6 center hub and pressure plate, and get the 6 steel and 7 friction plates setup. If you decide to go Barnett anyway, their kit contains 6 of each plate, stronger springs, and thicker fiber plates. You will need to scrub them with some steel wool before using, too, as they otherwise generate lots of fibers in their first 500 miles, which go through the oil pump and are hard on the rotors. 

[LesterPiglet]

and thicker fiber plates. You will need to scrub them with some steel wool before using, too, as they otherwise generate lots of fibers in their first 500 miles, which go through the oil pump and are hard on the rotors. 

And there was me thinking about running without an oil filter.   

[jessezm]

Great, thanks!  I think i'll use the stock Honda plates with Barnett springs.  That is setup I've got in my cb400f/466 and it works really well.  So on assembly, what do I do with that tabbed metal ring?  Is it the second piece of the sandwich like it shows in the fiche?

The "metal hub" thing I'm referring to is on the other side of the primary drive shaft: sorry for the confusion...it is inside the cases, too.

The metal tamping you still have is pretty rare! They disappeared with the 'old factory' K1 bikes. Those clutches had just 6 friction plates, 7 metal plates. The later ones have 7 friction plates, and the top plate changed from a steel one to the aluminum top hub pressure plate itself, by reversing the order of the plates as they were installed and having the inner hub's fingers shortened at the back to make up the extra distance needed (about 1mm) to make the stack-up come out right. Chances are, if that stamped ring is the original piece from this clutch, you also have the reinforced primary drive hub as well, because they came together.

So, search around for a K3-K6 center hub and pressure plate, and get the 6 steel and 7 friction plates setup. If you decide to go Barnett anyway, their kit contains 6 of each plate, stronger springs, and thicker fiber plates. You will need to scrub them with some steel wool before using, too, as they otherwise generate lots of fibers in their first 500 miles, which go through the oil pump and are hard on the rotors.