Topic: Engine stuck while driving

[MCRider]

So if i'm putting the engine back together, what do i do to seal the gaskets in the best possible way? And I ordered the towers Elan found on Ebay. Should I do the oil mod or not? What are your recommendations? Still looking for a camshaft though.. Found some k4 ones, they look the same, except for the cam chain sprocket, which, in 74', didn't have holes in it. Is it safe to use one of those on my 78' bike?

Thx

If you're asking me... but there are several here with just as good advice.

Use a non-hardening type gasket sealer, like Gasgacinch. It will say "non-hardening" on its package. Realize that many here will say put them on dry, or lightly oil them, or use the NH sealer on one side only to set the gasket (that's me) or both sides. All of these methods work. You're pick. Most important: DO NOT USE a silicone based sealer that hardens. I like the one side method as much for convenience of sticking them in place, and for removal of the cover. The gasket will stick to one surface and not the other so it can be reused. No need for sealer if sealing is the only issue, IMO.

With the NH sealer, put on a very light coat and let it set for a few minutes to get tacky.

As to the mod, can't beat HondaMan for the tricks. I didn't do it as the bolts from my reinforced rocker box hits the same spots he drills. If you feel up to it sure why not?

As to the sprocket, holy or not, I can't see a reason not to use it, but i don't have first hand experience. I have some cams and sprockets, I'll see if they are holey tonight if you can wait that long.

Do you know why yours seized? Are the oil orifices in the head blocked? Is the oil pump screen clear?

[jester]

I was just wondering because i read this:

you can remove the little bolts and run without, and pick up almost a full 1 HP. I recommend replacing the shafts, though, when you do. Otherwise you will never get the valve lash set exactly right, because the worn side will keep rotating underneath the rocker.

I'm not considering replacing the shafts as that would run me into extra costs.

Thx for your advice, I'll definitely go and look for the non hardening sealer and seal it that way.
I posted a picture of the oil screen in my post somewhere. it definitely looks clear.  While cleaning the head, i did notice some dirty gunk that i cannot get off easy. Some areas seem to even have fused with the metal :p maybe that would be remnants of silicone based sealer. I'll take a picture of it later when i have time. Thx for taking time to look at the sprockets.
I'll check the oil orifices tonight.

[MCRider]

I was just wondering because i read this:

you can remove the little bolts and run without, and pick up almost a full 1 HP. I recommend replacing the shafts, though, when you do. Otherwise you will never get the valve lash set exactly right, because the worn side will keep rotating underneath the rocker.

I'm not considering replacing the shafts as that would run me into extra costs.

Thx for your advice, I'll definitely go and look for the non hardening sealer and seal it that way.
I posted a picture of the oil screen in my post somewhere. it definitely looks clear.  While cleaning the head, i did notice some dirty gunk that i cannot get off easy. Some areas seem to even have fused with the metal :p maybe that would be remnants of silicone based sealer. I'll take a picture of it later when i have time. Thx for taking time to look at the sprockets.
I'll check the oil orifices tonight.

When it comes to implementing tricks, I always try to come back to center (well, tell others to come back to center). You start one trick it leads to another and another, and soon you end up like me with a project that lasts forever and costs a fortune. 

Remember the original bike, regardless of the K series, is a pretty good bike and putting it back together fresh, but without tricks, you'll still be pretty happy.

I see the oil pump pic. Looks pretty clean, but those bits are big enough to clog the oil orifices in the head, and they had to come from somewhere. Either silicone, or rubber breakdown on a cam chain tensioner or something.

On the head oil orifices, fish some wire thru the holes and flush them out.

Do you know the history, has it been apart before?

[jester]

I don't know the history actually, I bought it a month ago and everything worked fine. When the engine got stuck and I wanted to disassemble it, I couldn't get off the oil filter though. I had to grind it off. So I don't know when the last time was the oil or filter got changed. Can very dirty oil have caused this? I included pictures of the dirty gunk that is still attached to the head after I cleaned it.

[MCRider]

Dirty enough to carry some debris, yes. But you'll be the first I've seen to seize a cam in a virgin engine. Doen't mean it can't happen.

Yeah, there are MANY threads here by people who had to go Roman on an oil filter bolt to get it off. Its not necessarily because it was too tight. Rather a chemical reaction occurs between the bottom of the flange on the steel bolt and the aluminum oil filter cover, causing them to stick. When exposed to the elements for a long time.

The gunk on your head just appears to be gasket residue and fairly common. You may need to soak it in thinner, acetone, paint remover, whatever to get it off. Not uncommon and always a PITA.