Topic: Any Briggs & Stratton experts here?

[Cuts Crooked]

I've got an old tiller with a Briggs & Stratton motor. vertical single cylinder, only numbers are 130202 -0821. Can't find any thing about it on the Briggs home page. Need point/plug gap and part numbers

It runs , but is need of a tune up!

[333]

Go to the Briggs website, plug in that number, and you can get the owners manual which will have your answers.

BTW, you posted 2 of 3 parts of the complete number.  The 3rd, and last part has it's birthday encoded in it.  Of 7 or 8 digits, the first two are year, second two are month, third two are the day, and the last ones have to do with which plant it was made in.  The rest goes like this(from a Briggs book from the late 70s;

13 = displacement, in cubic inches
0  = Basic Design Series(no idea what this really means)
2  = Crankshaft orientation/Carb/Governor.  2=Horizontal shaft/ Pulsa-Jet carb/Gov, not defined
0  = Bearing type/Reduction gears/Aux drive.  0= plain bearings/no reduction/ no Aux Drive
2  = Starter type  2= rewind starter

The second part of the number is the "type", and has to do with more specific differences of construction, a list that I don't have.

[mark]

Point gap .020"

Plug gap .030"

[Cuts Crooked]

Well I finally found two more numbers, under some rust, on the engine,130202-0821-01 and when I go to the Briggs site and try them it takes me to the Antique Engines section and stops there, no way to go any further. The site is not very well thought out

Mark, Thanks, that's the sort of info I needed. I could also use the correct setting for the carb needle?
(the carb is one of those old ones with a "pull choke")

[Don R]

If it has points it is an antique. If you can find the parts used you can switch to the newer flywheel and magnitron coil. No points. We ran them in our jr dragsters, I got that same engine to run well. I think ours was 232 it had  a bearing in it. Yours probably has an aluminum cylinder and bearings like our Honda cams.  We bored ours .100 and put in a sleeve, used an aftermarket ball bearing side cover and a 33mm Mikuni on methanol. A 3hp size flywheel with a rare earth magnet. If I dropped a tool near that side of the motor it would always stick to the flywheel. Lol.

Oh, and you can mill the stock head, use a copper head gasket and grind a fire slot between the flat area above the valve and the piston area. There is a 3" stroke crank available with a billet rod and wiseco piston too. sorry, I got a little excited.

[scottly]

Starting point for the needle is 1 1/2 turns out, then adjusted midway between lean and rich, then back out slightly from the mid-point.

[Cuts Crooked]

BLESS YOU SCOTTLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It's alive!!!!!!!!

Took the head off today, cleaned some serious carbon out of there, set the points (used the old ones after filing them smooth), gapped the plug, adjusted the carb needle, put it all back together. And it runs great now! BTW, that danged flywheel was a B!+ch kitty to get off!

Thanx again friends!!!

[faux fiddy]

I have replaced a bent crank in a vertical B&S, pretty simple but for you have to order a gasket.

I have a horizontal shaft on an old school craftsman edger. I used to have to tune it constantly to engage the blade without it dying.  Come to find the blade was worn to a nub and  with a new blade It didn't load up the motor as much to pull the lever to engage it to cut.

[333]

Okay, so is the choke pull vertical of horizontal?  Vertical is a Pulsa-Jet, and horizontal is a Vacu-Jet.  Either, as you have already been told, 1 1/2 turns out is the correct initial setting.

If "01" is the beginning of the date code, that equates to 2001, not so antique.  But a pull choke (either one of the above) says older.  The first 13 CIDs were begun in 1979, also not "antique", and concluded in 1995.

As for the Briggs website, things seemed to have changed since I was there, doing this very same inquiry about 2 months ago.

[Cuts Crooked]

It the horizontal pull choke, out on the back end of the carb.

And I KNOW it's older than 2001 because I bought it, used, long before that. Says "Gambles" on the frame!

It just never needed any attention until now, other than changing the air filter, blowing out the cooling fins, and changing the oil every year. I think it may need the carb rebuilt though, it gushes a bit of fuel out past the choke when I shut it down.

I suspect that Briggs & Stratton calls anything that uses points & condenser "antique"

[Don R]

We started buying them new in 92, they were all magnatron by then. At least the 5hp engines we used. I had some old ones from equipment which had points but we removed them. On a 12.90 class engine for the 8 and 9 year olds it didn't take much more than a carb and a flywheel to run the class minimum ET. We split one in half at the biggest race of the year under the lights, in front of a packed house. The metal is very brittle.

[faux fiddy]

I ran mine, the horizintal  today, 2.5 horse bs craftsman edger.. It runs .  It has a four positipon choke, full  4 starting anytime, a brief half choke and then off.  Cuts and wants to die if overwork it.  It doesn't want to start without full c\hoke as  warmed up as it is. Leaves a bit of stragglers on the sidewalk unlike the new string trimmers, and I really wish there was a string head available for it. That being said, it's from a pawn shop, sticker says $39 so paid less likely.


But like any old thing you love you figure out what's cool about it besides old.  It has a gearshift, shoots sparks and makes loud noises and still reasonably does it's job, and would be a mini-bike motor.

Bla Bla Bla, point is there's a guy in your neighborhood pawning one of these eedgers for $10. That is a minibike motor. He's getting rid of something in the way, you have to let the guy at the pawn shop double his money. Or quadruple it. Hear it run and drop it in to the bike.