Author Topic: '76 400F Supersport Project (there is 2 of them...)Pictures Now Posted (Read 12430 times)

Kwality · « **Reply #25 on:** May 17, 2012, 10:17:14 pm »

Subscribed!

I have Bridgestone Battlax BT45's on mine. No complaints!

Leigh

sopo400f · « **Reply #26 on:** May 18, 2012, 04:20:29 am »

Just put on a pair of gs-11 on my 400. Very happy.

Operator · « **Reply #27 on:** May 18, 2012, 06:11:06 am »

Thanks for the input, I wanted to go with Dunlops but they are pricey north of the border and expensive to ship.

Mugen_Stumpo · « **Reply #28 on:** May 18, 2012, 10:10:39 am »

i picked up these... german tyres so problably you'll not find them in canada...

heidenau k65

Stev-o · « **Reply #29 on:** May 18, 2012, 08:12:42 pm »

^^^ Those look nice! ^^^

Operator · « **Reply #30 on:** May 22, 2012, 06:22:34 am »

Productive weekend.

Carbs have been torn down and cleaned.....pics to follow, I have to remember which member told me about using a guitar string to clean out the jets, but thanks goes out to them.

Sorted out the seized front brake piston. Rust vs hammer.......hammer wins. Thanks Phil

Switched out the aftermarket brake caliper for the stock one on the other bike.

TWO QUESTIONS!

1. The rubber boot on the lever end of the brake piston....is it required?? I tore it trying to unseize the piston and need to know if I need to replace it or if it is just a dust boot.

2. When I attached the stock caliper and tightened things down, there is some drag on the wheel. Do I need to tear down the caliper to compress the cylinder back to its proper position or will that happen when I run the new fluid into it. That is the direction I was going to go, but I don't want to take it apart if I dont need to. Note. I know nothing about brake systems, or anything else for that matter. Manuals only tell you how to take things apart, not unseize them!!

Waiting on parts now

Thanks guys!!

MoMo · « **Reply #31 on:** May 22, 2012, 07:02:24 am »

Quote from: Operator on May 22, 2012, 06:22:34 am

Productive weekend.

Carbs have been torn down and cleaned.....pics to follow, I have to remember which member told me about using a guitar string to clean out the jets, but thanks goes out to them.

Sorted out the seized front brake piston. Rust vs hammer.......hammer wins. Thanks Phil

Switched out the aftermarket brake caliper for the stock one on the other bike.

TWO QUESTIONS!

1. The rubber boot on the lever end of the brake piston....is it required?? I tore it trying to unseize the piston and need to know if I need to replace it or if it is just a dust boot.

2. When I attached the stock caliper and tightened things down, there is some drag on the wheel. Do I need to tear down the caliper to compress the cylinder back to its proper position or will that happen when I run the new fluid into it. That is the direction I was going to go, but I don't want to take it apart if I dont need to. Note. I know nothing about brake systems, or anything else for that matter. Manuals only tell you how to take things apart, not unseize them!!

Waiting on parts now

Thanks guys!!

1. boot not necessary

2. When you had the caliper apart did you clean out the groove where the seal goes? replace the seal? The corrosion will cause the piston to drag and not return, and if the corrosion is real bad it can cause the brake to lock-that happened to me once. Have fun with the 400...Larry

Operator · « **Reply #32 on:** May 22, 2012, 07:08:39 am »

1. boot not necessary

2. When you had the caliper apart did you clean out the groove where the seal goes? replace the seal? The corrosion will cause the piston to drag and not return, and if the corrosion is real bad it can cause the brake to lock-that happened to me once. Have fun with the 400...Larry
[/quote]

Thanks Larry

I was not able to get the whole assembly apart but I did manage to get it moving without much resistance, the manual shows a circlip that holds it all together but I could not see it. Any Advice??

MoMo · « **Reply #33 on:** May 22, 2012, 07:19:29 am »

You did not take the caliper apart? You should do that if you have not.

Get small pick and scrape all the rust and crud out of the mc, you will then see the circlip. You also may not be able to see it because the clip that holds the rubber boot is still there. Honda sold a special pair of bent nose circlip pliers to make removal easy. Harbor Freight has a set that may work, Motion Pro sells a tool similar to the old Honda one. With the mc in a vise, use a flat punch to push the cylinder down while simultaneously squeezing the circlip with the tool. It is very easy once the rust is removed and the proper tools are on hand. ...Larry

Operator · « **Reply #34 on:** May 22, 2012, 07:43:41 am »

I know there are a set of circlip pliers around here somewhere..........

Thanks again Larry, I will try it out tonite.

zachz · « **Reply #35 on:** May 24, 2012, 09:54:06 am »

For tires - I've got a mix of tires on mine. Currently have an Avon Roadspeed on the back, and a Dunlop(?) BT45 in front. Personally, I prefer the roadspeeds, and have run them on a couple of other bikes previously.

Operator · « **Reply #36 on:** May 24, 2012, 11:58:26 am »

Quick update, went with the Dunlop 404's, both tires installed balanced with tubes, around $250.00. Local bike shop is having a tire sale. 30% off all tire orders.

MoMo, picked up a new set of 6 in 1 circlip pliers at the Napa next to the bike shop from the bargain bin, reg $20 got em for $7. Score one for me!! Went back to the bike shop and spent the money I saved on a master cylinder rebuild kit. This bike is being fixed up for my wife so no half assing here, do it once-do it right. Thanks for the advice.

Thanks again to everyone who has chimed in here and PM'd advice or answered questions.

And on that note.....
Two new questions

Whats the concensus on in line fuel filters?

How the f%%k do you get a compressed brake pad out of the caliper without pumping it out? Can't use that method untill the master cylinder is rebuilt. tried tapping the backside of the caliper but don't want to hit it too hard and crack it. Will heat mess anything up internally? Never taken one of these apart before. Being optimistic, once it is out, what would need to be replaced internally on the caliper? Bear in mind this likely hasn't functioned in a number of years.

Thanks again fellas.

Operator

OneWheelDrive · « **Reply #37 on:** May 24, 2012, 12:03:54 pm »

I've had very good luck using a grease gun with a threaded attachment to pump the piston out. Basically thread the gun onto the brake line inlet (the threads won't match, but you just need a thread or two to seal it). Give it a few pumps and it should slide right out. It makes a bit of a mess, but it's the easiest way to get it done.

Operator · « **Reply #38 on:** May 24, 2012, 12:10:20 pm »

I was considering an air compressor but I don't want to put anything into orbit!

MoMo · « **Reply #39 on:** May 24, 2012, 05:10:12 pm »

an air compressor can work unless the piston is seized...Larrh

Kwality · « **Reply #40 on:** May 24, 2012, 08:53:39 pm »

+1 on the grease gun. My piston was utterly seized after sitting idle for a long time (years), but a couple of pumps on the gun sorted that out. Be sure to clean everything thoroughly afterwards!

Operator · « **Reply #41 on:** May 25, 2012, 08:31:47 am »

Brake pad is out!!!!

I think that a few pints and a bit of thinking outside the box helped sort out the caliper. See photos below.

Apparently if you just put a wood screw into the stuck pad, put it in a bench vise, attach a big pair of vise grips and pull like you're trying to pull Dukie off your sister, it will eventually come free. Pretty gunky and rusty inside, but it cleaned up pretty well with a little bit of scrubbing. In the photos there is a white gasket/seal type of thing. Is this all that needs to be replaced and if not what else is there? I can't see anything else that would come apart.

As for the master cylinder, the circlip pliers aren't narrow enough to reach into the opening. Going to try stopping by the local shop to see if I can borrow a pair for a few minutes.

Hopefully the mailman has some goodies for me today.....

On the table for this weekend is carb rebuilld(if the parts make it here), gas tank cleanup, disassemble the petcock and filter to clear any junk, curse and swear at the master cylinder some more, go over the whole wiring assembly, and clear the brake lines.

Thanks for the tips guys! I definitely would have tried the grease gun idea but don't have one at the moment, but I make notes on everything anyone tells me and put it in the binder with my service manual for future reference.

OneWheelDrive · « **Reply #42 on:** May 25, 2012, 08:56:30 am »

If you thought you had trouble with the piston, wait until you tackle the master cylinder! There are TONS of threads on tips of how to get that damn snap ring out, but I've had the best luck with a pick set (think dental tool). They can be had for like 10 bucks.

Operator · « **Reply #43 on:** May 25, 2012, 09:16:49 am »

"bangs head against wall"....I have one of those in my bathroom!!!

Captain Obvious strkes again!!

Thanks One Wheel

socalenduro · « **Reply #44 on:** May 25, 2012, 09:50:54 am »

Quote from: OneWheelDrive on May 24, 2012, 12:03:54 pm

I've had very good luck using a grease gun with a threaded attachment to pump the piston out. Basically thread the gun onto the brake line inlet (the threads won't match, but you just need a thread or two to seal it). Give it a few pumps and it should slide right out. It makes a bit of a mess, but it's the easiest way to get it done.

This could be a nice lil took Pampadori could make and sell.... fitting the male adaptor to a greese gun theading...
Im guessing 90% of the people buying lines from him are trying to get their pistons out too

Operator · « **Reply #45 on:** May 29, 2012, 07:24:08 am »

Still can't get the master cylinder apart. Dental tool, circlip pliers...it is rusted right in there.

Went through all the threads on the subject, seem to be stuck on that right now.

Operator · « **Reply #46 on:** June 01, 2012, 07:39:55 am »

master cylinder is soaking in the WD40 in hopes that the circlip can be pried out somehow.

In the meantime, back to the brake caliper. I think I finally have it all apart. I have tried to look at the diagrams in the manual but there is not a lot of detail. Is there a sleeve that is supposed to come out? Here is the pictures of where I am at. Feel free to point out any glaring issues or if I have missed something.

Note difference after a little bit of cleaning, no serious pitting.

The last pic is where my wife asked me, "if you're fixing it why do you still keep taking things apart?"

This weekend will be spent rebuilding the m/c, cleaning up the rims for the new tires, and trying to chase down my wiring gremlin.

Operator · « **Reply #47 on:** June 24, 2012, 12:08:42 pm »

Major update!!!

It lives!! Alittle bit rough still but should be good after the carb balancing (hopefully this week)

Here is my list from the last couple of weeks
-carbs rebuilt, and reinstalled
-petcock pulled and cleaned
-got some education on the brake caliper, just waiting on a new seal and pads to put it back together.
-new spark plugs
-airbox pulled apart and cleaned
-new rear brake pads
-new Dunlop 404's, very nice tyres
-working on the master cylinder rebuild today

photos and maybe a video coming soon.....

thanks to all who put in their two cents or advice along the way.

This thing should be on the road real soon, can't wait, my wife is going to love it.

Operator · « **Reply #48 on:** June 24, 2012, 12:11:31 pm »

On another note...

Western Hills Honda, great people to deal with, be careful though, I was told my parts would be delivered in 1 - 1 1/2 weeks. Try about 4 weeks. Was not impressed

Stev-o · « **Reply #49 on:** June 24, 2012, 12:40:28 pm »

Big update..all sounds good! Need pics...

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Author Topic: '76 400F Supersport Project (there is 2 of them...)***Pictures Now Posted*** (Read 12430 times)

Author Topic: '76 400F Supersport Project (there is 2 of them...)Pictures Now Posted (Read 12430 times)