Author Topic: 1972 CB500 hasnt ran in 15 years... (Read 19034 times)

Accolay · « **Reply #25 on:** May 15, 2012, 12:11:48 PM »

Welcome.

It's always good to find another Mpls guy on here. I have decent carb pics if you need them. http://s581.photobucket.com/albums/ss258/accolay_accolay/1977%20CB550F/Carbs/

If you need to borrow something let me know i.e. I have a carb synchronyzer if needed once you get those carbs going.

samIam · « **Reply #26 on:** May 15, 2012, 12:28:43 PM »

Cool, I'm in Bloomington close to the MOA. Nice pics of the carbs, I'm be using yours for the rebuild. Do you have a local place to get a gasket kit from? So I got most of the carbs apart and I'm soaking the bottom part. One thing I do notice is that a couple of the vent tubes in the float bowl are cracked all the way down. Still usable or will they leak into the vent lines?

This is what I have going on with the carbs. I couldnt get the emulsion tubes out but this should clean them up.

Accolay · « **Reply #27 on:** May 15, 2012, 12:53:52 PM »

No problem. OEM Honda parts closest to me is Honda Town. If you need a couple things, you don't have to pay for shipping, but if you need a whole lotta parts, I say buying online is cheaper. Remember to check dealer prices to see if parts are still available before buying on Ebay, because they are usually cheaper from a dealer.

I think there is a suggested fix for your cracked vent problem in the Carb FAQ.

TwoTired · « **Reply #28 on:** May 15, 2012, 01:25:19 PM »

Cracked stand pipe tubes WILL leak. Use acid core solder to seal them up again after cleaning any film off the surrounding surface to bright metal.

samIam · « **Reply #29 on:** May 16, 2012, 09:30:18 PM »

Can I use JBWeld for the stand pipes? Tested the plugs for spark and they are sparking.

TwoTired · « **Reply #30 on:** May 17, 2012, 12:23:48 AM »

Quote from: samIam on May 16, 2012, 09:30:18 PM

Can I use JBWeld for the stand pipes?

Well, you can. But, I wouldn't rely on JBweld for durable repair, given it will be bathed in fuel. (ethanol)

Accolay · « **Reply #31 on:** May 17, 2012, 01:13:46 AM »

I forgot to say that maybe if you take the MSF course your better half might feel more comfortable about the bike. Dakota County Tech offers a MSF course for beginners. I didn't take the course there, but I can only assume since the MSF logo has been applied, it's probably legit. I think it fills fast, so the sooner you apply, the better.
http://www.dctc.edu/continuing-education/public-safety/motorcycle-safety.cfm

LesterPiglet · « **Reply #32 on:** May 17, 2012, 03:16:00 AM »

Quote from: samIam on May 14, 2012, 06:35:56 PM

and it looks like there is a little tube that goes into the fuel tank, mine doesnt have one, like it broke.

I thought my fuel strainer was missing until I looked inside the tank with a torch and seen it was still attached inside. I then looked at the petcock connection and noticed the plastic sleeve in there. I had to use a tap and screw it in to remove the strainer, be careful, those things are fragile.

samIam · « **Reply #33 on:** May 17, 2012, 05:00:08 AM »

I'll have to read the back of the box for JBWeld, see if it will work in gas. Is the fuel strainer the part that goes into the tank off the shutoff valve. Mine doesnt have a pipe at all that goes into the tank. Also, I was thinking of running little fuel filters until I know the tank is clear of anything left behind. Sound good?

Wifey will be alright, dont have the money to do the test yet. It is in the plans though.

CBGhia · « **Reply #34 on:** May 17, 2012, 05:13:39 AM »

I used JB weld on one 4 years ago and it holds up fine. Just make sure you get the real JB weld and not the JB Quick.

LesterPiglet · « **Reply #35 on:** May 17, 2012, 06:44:11 AM »

There should be a pipe on your petcock, without this you will not have a reserve fuel supply. The strainer fits over the pipe with a bit of extra room for the reserve outlet.

samIam · « **Reply #36 on:** May 17, 2012, 07:24:33 AM »

Alright, I'm gonna look for a pic and see whats missing/broken on mine.

LesterPiglet · « **Reply #37 on:** May 17, 2012, 07:47:35 AM »

Is it this type?

http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb500-500-four-k2-usa_model461/partslist/F++10.html#results

Scott S · « **Reply #38 on:** May 17, 2012, 05:01:13 PM »

Quote from: samIam on May 14, 2012, 10:18:00 PM

To get the emulsion tubes out so you can clean them (and trust me, you'll be glad you did), loosen the bolt/lock tab that's on the shaft. Slide the shaft over just a little, remove it from the "arm" that attaches to lift the slide and loosen the other bolt/lock tab. Now you can use a thin, magnetic screw driver to loosen/remove the screws that hold the plate onto the slide. That arm on the shaft should pull back and you can pull out the slide now. Har to explain in words and sounds daunting, but it will make sense when you're in there.

Be careful....there are various springs, plugs, etc., in there. Take note how they come out and put them in a safe place. A zip lock bag or bowl or something.

Take a wooden dowel or a bamboo skewer, etc., place it in the top of the emulsion tube and tap it out from above. It will come out of the post where you removed the main jet.

samIam · « **Reply #39 on:** May 17, 2012, 05:57:27 PM »

Lester, the one pic'd is a little different. I'll take a pic of mine when I can. It doesnt have a dome at the bottom, just flat.

Scott, I got the carbs apart but cant hit the tubes out, they're in there pretty good. Now that they have soaked it in carb cleaner, maybe I'll try it again.

samIam · « **Reply #40 on:** May 17, 2012, 11:12:37 PM »

Got the emulsion tubes out but...I messed one up. It was stuck in pretty good and I damaged the inside of the tube. Where do I get another? I will say that I'm glad y'all kept on me about getting them out, they were pretty nasty.

faux fiddy · « **Reply #41 on:** May 18, 2012, 01:08:59 AM »

Quote from: Scott S on May 17, 2012, 05:01:13 PM

Take a wooden dowel or a bamboo skewer, etc., place it in the top of the emulsion tube and tap it out from above. It will come out of the post where you removed the main jet.

Ball point pin is soft enough for that.

Quote from: TwoTired on May 15, 2012, 01:25:19 PM

Cracked stand pipe tubes WILL leak. Use acid core solder to seal them up again after cleaning any film off the surrounding surface to bright metal.

I maybe don't know what a stand pipe is, but if what I'm thinking it is wasn't there a thread where some people that were streching a brass shell casing over them? Might use a few terms like .45 or caliber in the search.

There is also laser welding threads if you have money for that.

sir funk · « **Reply #42 on:** May 18, 2012, 08:11:31 AM »

Quote from: samIam on May 17, 2012, 11:12:37 PM

Got the emulsion tubes out but...I messed one up. It was stuck in pretty good and I damaged the inside of the tube. Where do I get another?

Google 16012-323-004
That's needle jet set honda part number for those carbs. Comes with Emulsion tubes, needle and needle clip. This first google result, powersportsplus.com tends to have the lowest prices. I usually get parts from them in about 5 business days after the order.

On the cheap, for the emulsion tubes, I don't think you'd have any problems with aftermarket ones either. Most of the complaints about aftermarket kits are regarding needle taper and jet size. Those kits usually go for $15-20 for the whole kit (per carb)and will have all the carb parts and gaskets. You can find them on ebay, z1enterprises.com and some others.

Deltarider · « **Reply #43 on:** May 18, 2012, 08:20:43 AM »

Only if you have to go in there, I'm curious to know in what position your needles are. BTW, I'm curious to know from all 500 owners in what position their needles were, when they went in there for the first time.

samIam · « **Reply #44 on:** May 18, 2012, 08:21:54 AM »

Well, I just found a local guy that has tons of CB550 parts and he's a honda restoration guy, too. Going to get it now. Delta, what do you mean by position? open or closed?

Duanob · « **Reply #45 on:** May 18, 2012, 08:38:46 AM »

As far as electricals go this guy's website has helped me out quite a bit.

http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/index.html

He has all kinds of parts for 4 cylinder vintage japanese bikes and his FAQ is a spot on diagnosis.

Delta, what are you so afraid of taking carbs apart? There are o-rings in the fuel Ts that are 35 to 40 years old. They do crack and leak and they need to be replaced eventually. If the o-rings are in the carb gasket kit then replace them while the carbs are off the bike instead of later after you're all done. It's not rocket science. If I've done it then anybody can.

samIam · « **Reply #46 on:** May 18, 2012, 09:31:29 AM »

I've had plenty of people tell me not to take the carbs apart but I found it not to be hard. A guy in this thread posted a link to his photobucket that is very detailed about EVERY piece inside the carb. I'm pretty comfy with this because I build GM racing motors but anybody that can pay attention and take your time can do this. That photobucket album, the free service manuals and this forum would make sure you get it back together correctly.

Deltarider · « **Reply #47 on:** May 18, 2012, 11:04:28 AM »

Quote

Delta, what are you so afraid of taking carbs apart? There are o-rings in the fuel Ts that are 35 to 40 years old.

As I've posted before: mine are 35 years old and still don't leak, maybe because Honda put in two at each side, who knows? I have new ones ready, but why should I fix something that isn't broken???
It is this ridiculous echoing in the internet in general and in this forum in particular that goes on and on. Everybody passes secondhand "knowledge" and "experiences". For instance: I have read I don't know how many times here the primary chain will be at it's end in so and so many kms. Why is mine still in there after > 130.000 kms? What did I do wrong? I have a copy of an article about a Dutchman that had already done 220.000 kms and at that time was still daily riding his 500.
How many of you have bought inferior Keysters where I have not yet replaced one jet or needle, not one! O-rings around the main jet yes, and that's it.
SamIam I would like to know if the circlip of your needles is in the 3rd or in the 4th position from top. But only if you are going there. I would like to hear that from more members. What position were the needles in when you opened carbs. And I would like to know how many turns your airscrews are out. It has to do with conflicting data concerning 500 carbs and I have a suspicion where it is originated.

Duanob · « **Reply #48 on:** May 18, 2012, 12:08:14 PM »

"As I've posted before: mine are 35 years old and still don't leak, maybe because Honda put in two at each side, who knows? I have new ones ready, but why should I fix something that isn't broken???"

You have a pretty special bike but unfortunately most of the bikes out there aren't so lucky. There are many posts of fuel leakage from between the carbs and it's because of cracked or worn out o-rings mostly. Being broken and wearable parts replacement are two different things. Like I said this isn't rocket science it's not hard to replace all o-rings in the carb for at least a piece of mind. It took me an extra 20 minutes to take the carbs off the bracket and change out the o-rings and I had never done it before that.

Deltarider · « **Reply #49 on:** May 18, 2012, 12:15:01 PM »

Quote

It took me an extra 20 minutes to take the carbs off the bracket and change out the o-rings and I had never done it before that.

20 minutes? Serious? And another 20 minutes to assemble? Wow!

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Author Topic: 1972 CB500 hasnt ran in 15 years... (Read 19034 times)