Topic: Bike won't start. What do I need to check

[CafeWild34]

I have my bike completely back together but can't get it to start, it is something electrical. I have a Hondaman ignition, and I also have an aftermarket right side switch. The new switch didn't have a g/r wire in it so I don't have the g/r wire hooked up to anything, do I need to hook this to something? Nothing happens when I hit the starter button and I couldn't start it by kick starting. I read the manual and tried the tests it said, and when I took out a spark plug and laid it on the cylinder head and kicked it over it had no spark. I also took the point cover off and touched the points together and I got a spark? I also touched the two screws together on the starter solenoid and got sparks there but it didn't start, not even sure if I need to do this but I did. I also tried two sets of coils and it didn't work. I'm not sure what I need to check? Do I possibly have the coils or something hooked up wrong? I checked the connections and they looked right but I'm not sure what else to check? Please any help is appreciated I would love to start this up tomorrow. Thanks

[Randy]

What kind of bike?...

[CafeWild34]

Sorry it is a 1975 cb550k. I looked under where the starter solenoid is and the g/r wire isn't connected to anything. Does it need to be to start? What would cause the coils to not get power or cause spark? Also when I had the plug out and re connected the wire to the plug it got a spark when I bridged the gap in the points but wouldn't get one from kick starting. Not sure whAt would cause this. I have been searching and can't find anything to help me

[trueblue]

If you get a spark when you bridge the points but not when you crank, your points aren't adjusted properly, when you adjust the gap ensure that the points are on the top of the point cam, ie the points are the farthest open they will go.

[CafeWild34]

I adjusted the points according to the manual but I may have done it wrong so I will check it again when I get home. Would that cause the starter button to do nothing also? Thanks

[lucky]

Whoa....This post has been read 62 times. Not many answers.
Because there is not enough information and no photos.

Do you have a manual with a wiring schematic???

QUOTE
"I have my bike completely back together" From scratch?

First question.
Did you check the fuses?
Next..IS the battery fully charged?
Does the engine turn over?
Do any of the lights work?
Does the horn work?

If it does turn over, why do you think it is an electrical problem?
ALSO the green wire that is not connected...Where does it come from?
Where does it go to?
For instance is it a large green wire or a small green wire?
Is the green wire near the electrical panel or up by the steering head?

Just not enough info.

BTW...To check a spark plug to see if it is firing just put a clamp on DC timing light on ANY spark plug wire.

If you DO NOT have a clamp on DC timing light just take any old spark plug and put one of your spark plug wires on that old spark plug and ground it to the engine.
No need to remove the spark plug from the cylinder head.

The engine and frame needs a ground going to the negative battery post.
Maybe that ground IS for the battery or solenoid. Is it a large green wire?

[CafeWild34]

Sorry for the lack of info I am a noob and wasn't sure what all was needed. I didn't put it together from scratch it was complete when I got it. I did put new turn signals, switches, headlight, taillight, and a hondaman ignition and a fuse box from him also. The fuses are good and the battery is charged, I charged it a coupl days ago. When I hit the starter button nothIng happens and I cannot get it to start by kick starting it. All the other electricals are working, horn, headlight on/off and high beam, blinkers, taillight and brake light, and all of the dummy lights work.

The wire I was talking about is actually the green with a red stripe. The old switch had it going to the starter button but my new one didn't have a wire for it. There Is also one for the clutch operated switch which I no lonager have either. I have hooked the green with red stripe wire that comes from the wiring harness in the headlight bucket hooked to ground based on a post I read while searching. At the fuse box area there a green with red stripe wire that looks to come from the starter solenoid but it isn't hooked tO anything. Does it need to be? The bike used to start when I first got it not very easily but it did.

I don have a timing light so I did the test that you are talkIng about where I take the wire off and hook a plug in it and see if it sparks and it didn't. While I still had the plug layIng on the head I tried the points test and got a spark at the points and it also caused a spark at the plug that was laying out. And like I think I said when I take a screwdriver to the two screws on the starter solenoid it sparks and acts like it wants to turn over.

Hopefully that is enough Info if not please let me know and I will be glad to give more. I can get pictures of the green with red stripe wire at the fuse box area or anything you need a picture Of. Thanks for any help.

[CafeWild34]

I was looking again and the wire under the fuse box area is actually just a green. I believe this is just an extra ground wire based on another post I read by hondaman where he said he usually by passes the starter safety unit by hooking the green with red stripe wire that comes from the starter solenoid to the extra green wire. So maybe just extra. Is that what I need to do maybe? Does anyone have any thoughts? Need more info? I'm headed to work and when I get off in the A.M. I am going to look at this some more. I don't have a volt meter or anything. I may need to borrow one from my dad. Thanks

[trueblue]

Ok I will repeat, if it sparks when you jump the points but not when you kick it over, the points aren't adjusted correctly.  That is the only thing it can be, because it is the only thing that is different.  On my 650 the red and green is part of the neutral safety circuit, I'm not sure if it is the same on the 550, it will need to be hooked up before your starter button will work. 

[CafeWild34]

Did some messing around, cleaned some connections, rechecked the point gap and IT LIVES!!!! I found a wire in the headlight bucket that was connected wrong and the points for the 2nd and 3rd cylinder had a little too big a gap, thank you trueblue. Now I just have a couple more kinks to work out. I am leaking a little gas from the carbs, some oil from under the alternator cover because I put the plug in the wrong way. Also there is quite a bit of white smoke coming from the right side exhaust? I did some searching and couldn't really tell what it implied. Does anyone know? It also has a really hi idle when I take the choke off, is that just because the carbs need adjusted? It was like really high, like I hit the kill switch to turn it off because I was worried it wasn't going to stop and the throttle was closed. Anyways it is almost there hopefully another day or two and I can finally take it out. Thanks!

[cgswss]

Well don't make any appointments to take your bike to in the next few days... you have a start.

Your going to have to take the carbs off and do a major cleaning.  The gas leaking from the carbs is almost for sure the needle seats above your floats.  I'm sure you have a lot more cleaning to do on those carbs before you will be out running around

I'm also thinking you have some problems with the cylinders on the right side.  Did you have heavy smoke from both right side pipes? 

Have you done anything about you cables?  An old trick on cables is to disconnect them at the handle bar then make little cardboard "funnels" around the end.  then hang the cables up and put oil in the cardboard funnels and let it run down into the cable case all night.  That will make it much easier to open and for the return spring to close.

[trueblue]

No worries mate, before taking your carbs off give the float bowls a tap with a screwdriver handle, sometimes it takes a bit to make the float valves seat, the white smoke is possibly caused by it flooding, if it is running slightly rich and can't quite burn all the fuel it will blow black smoke, it is is way to rich and can't burn the fuel at all it will blow white smoke and if it is burning oil it will blow blue smoke.  With the high idle, just wind back the idle screw a little  .

[CafeWild34]

Well like I said I am a noob so the fuel leak was from the fuel line going to the carbs. It was leaking because I got new fuel lines but I never put clamps back on the ends so it just wasn't tight enough at that connection. I did also have a float bowl leaking but like you said trueblue I tapped it with a screwdriver and it went away also. The carbs should be good I completely rebuilt them with all new jets and everything so I hope after all the time I spent on that I won't have to do it again anytime soon. I got the Plug for the oil leak I had turned around and no more leak there. Backed the idle screw out a lot because I had it turned all the way in (I think for bench synching?). Started her up and the smoke in the exhaust is gone! I was happy. Now just a couple more things like bleeding the front brake mainly and I think I will take it for a ride tomorrow!! Thanks everyone

[trueblue]

Good to here it is all coming together

[Rigid]

Once again.............sling blade