Author Topic: Greetings and Grovelings (Read 3252 times)

Klark Kent · « **on:** June 09, 2006, 01:48:11 PM »

I didn't feel right introducing myself before I had the pic, so I finally got my digital camera out and snapped my new ride. This forum was a huge help in my search for my first bike and ultimately steered me towards this 550 that had been sitting for two years (have not named her yet, but have taken to calling her the dragon lady- especially when she wasn't running) as opposed to a fully running DOHC 450 (that and the vast price difference.-dude wanted 1500USD for his 450) With your help, I learned to see my future bike as an experience in education as much as transportation, and opted for this 550 even though it was not running. (It was also a texas bike for most of its life and looks real purdy even when not moving.)

After cleaning out just the float bowls and freeing up the floats from underneath I got it to stop pissing gas out the overflows and started right up with some new gas and a new battery, but would not run with the choke down. Seafoamed the gas and oil- then changed the oil. Couldn't get the rounded oil filter bolt to break free so left it in (As I am sure the preivious owner had been doing- scared to run on the unknown junk that lies inside. That satisfied me for a couple days.

Then I adjusted the valve gaps (to .003 and .004 on a friends suggestion- I suppose this is to insure against lean running at the expense of mileage, but please tell me if this is a good/bad idea and why.) After working up the confidence (hours and hours of reading all of your carb tips and posts) I disassembled and dunked the carbs in permatex (very effective stuff that I reluctantly got after not finding any of the recommended brands I've read about here.) It now starts and runs with the choke down- is this because of the valves? am i basically now running with full time choke via the valves or did clearing out the jets do this for me?

The clutch was about half an inch out of adjustment and was slipping, adjusted it until the marks lined up on the crank case and it seems solid. Did this up on the center stand - still have never ridden a bike in my life! $:-\$ but while doing so I noticed the swaying rear wheel. I found out that this is probably the swingarm bushings and have placed an order with my local cycle salvage for new brass bushings. I am waiting on those and my friend's mercury sticks and timing gun to synch and time.

What else should I be doing with a newly aquired 550 that has been sitting for 2 years, but looks like the previous 29 were very very good to it?

I also need a right side cover if anyone has extras? $:-\$

Also- here comes the noob- does the big f in 550Four mean it's an F, as opposed to a K or whatnot? and ANY other info about this particular model, comments, criticisms, and general musings welcome.

One last thing-
Signed up for the safety course at 9am on day one of summer registration, before I even had a bike (or the scratch to get one,) but it's done by lottery or something because I got an August date. Chances are I will have this thing running well before then. So anyone in the baltimore area who is an instructor or just has a strong teaching streak is more than welcome to get in touch and help me get my clandestine kicks in before the MSF.

Looking foward to fulfilling a long time dream of owning and riding a UJM, in large part due to the wisdom found here and the confidence it has given me to get in there and make it happen.

Peace and much respect,
-KK

csendker · « **Reply #1 on:** June 09, 2006, 06:09:34 PM »

That's a K from the pic of the sidecover - F's had a more triangular cover. You can ice whatever it is by posting the VIN - frame preferably - on the steering coulmn tube, engine # too - left hand side. What year? Nice looking ride!

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #2 on:** June 09, 2006, 06:36:31 PM »

Klark Kent,

I know it's spelled differently, but everytime I see your name I think your Avatar should be a photo of Superman and Lois Lane.

Klark Kent · « **Reply #3 on:** June 10, 2006, 01:31:01 AM »

yeah and the lock on the front wheel isnt even kryptonite. whatayagunnado.
-KK

toycollector10 · « **Reply #4 on:** June 10, 2006, 01:33:56 AM »

Nice ride KK, welcome aboard....

Klark Kent · « **Reply #5 on:** June 10, 2006, 01:58:18 AM »

Quote from: csendker on June 09, 2006, 06:09:34 PM

That's a K from the pic of the sidecover - F's had a more triangular cover. You can ice whatever it is by posting the VIN - frame preferably - on the steering coulmn tube, engine # too - left hand side. What year? Nice looking ride!

csendker-
thanks

... the vin # on the title is CB5501209387- too dark and drunk out to look up the tiny numbers on the bike, but I think they match... its a '75 built in '74.

By the Way:
I will definately be taking more pics of it- It rained on my photo shoot and that's the only one i got before camera and bike were covered up. If there is a particular part of the bike that you would want to look at based on my questions let me know and I will get close ups of those things next time.
peas and rice-
-KK

Klark Kent · « **Reply #6 on:** June 10, 2006, 03:38:50 AM »

how's that for name specific avatarin'
-KK

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #7 on:** June 10, 2006, 03:39:49 AM »

There you go.

csendker · « **Reply #8 on:** June 10, 2006, 06:29:51 PM »

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CB5501209387

That would be a 1975 CB550 K1, just like mine.

Rushoid · « **Reply #9 on:** June 11, 2006, 10:51:17 AM »

Quote from: Klark Kent on June 09, 2006, 01:48:11 PM

What else should I be doing with a newly aquired 550 that has been sitting for 2 years, but looks like the previous 29 were very very good to it?

Above all else, make sure the brakes work well.

Also, check your lights, turn signals and other electrics. Then go for a little ride and see what happens. I took my first ever ride in this February - my biggest thing was trying to figure out what to do with each hand/foot at which time. I rode around my subdivision probably 10 times before I ever went out on a main road. Just use common sense and you'll do fine.

Welcome aboard! Good looking bike!
Lee

Klark Kent · « **Reply #10 on:** June 11, 2006, 11:30:51 AM »

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Above all else, make sure the brakes work well.

Also, check your lights, turn signals and other electrics.

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I rebuilt the front caliper as it came to me wrapped in tin foil in a ziplock bag

, new pads, bled the line and reattached the caliper. seems to be in perfect shape, doesn't seem spongy to me. the rear brake is a good cm from lining up with the red arrow. Turn signals are off the bike (came that way) and i was debating on whether to fit it with more streamlined ones. I have seen some nice ones around the board and one of the rears is scuffed from what appears to be a minor moving laydown. I will put them on before I hit the open road, and will hit the switches when i practice, but I have gotten used to the good looks of the naked bike and want to try and keep it looking like it does, but safe and visible at the same time- suggestions welcome on makes/models of indicators for my bike. All electrics that are in place are fully functional.

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Then go for a little ride and see what happens. I took my first ever ride in this February - my biggest thing was trying to figure out what to do with each hand/foot at which time. I rode around my subdivision probably 10 times before I ever went out on a main road. Just use common sense and you'll do fine.

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thanks lee. that is really helpful. You are the first person- on or off the web- that has told me something usefull about their first ride. Some people have said who taught them, or when and where, but never "this aspect of riding gave me the most trouble" or "i had to concentrate on doing this, which became second nature after a lot of practice." more comments like this one would be great. I intend to use one of the many large unused parking lots in my neighborhood (gotta love post industrial city living

) If anyone can remember back that far- or more likely if it hasn't been that long since you first put a bike in gear- I would love to hear the details- it may help me keep the rubber on the parking lot.

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Welcome aboard! Good looking bike!
Lee

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thanks lee and to all that have complimented the bike, i haven't seen a bike on here I couldn't say the same thing back to. thank you all for showing me the way to what is indeed a good looking bike.
-KK

csendker · « **Reply #11 on:** June 11, 2006, 02:31:09 PM »

I live in a typical subdivision with a zillion stop signs. Normally, I hate them, but it's great to learn starting & stopping. I went out late nights and practiced while nobody else was out. Much better to stall out at a deserted stop sign than a busy street. My biggest problem was remembering to turn the indicator off - my buzzer is gone, but it came with time. Once I hit traffic, I was surprised how naked you feel, especially when you're at a red light, in heavy traffic, next to a Semi. And my comfort level with speed has increased considerably over time.

Rushoid · « **Reply #12 on:** June 11, 2006, 06:17:22 PM »

Every time I go out, I try to practice my riding "skills." The stop signs are definitely good practice. I also like to go to the church lot behind my house to practice slow-speed riding. I try to follow the lines as slowly as I can without putting a foot down. The first time i went there, I was noodling around and decided to see what the bike would do under certain situations. I would get going and lock the rear brake (not good on the tire, but it's not great anyway) and try to go a little faster each time. Same with the front (not locked but hard braking). This way I'm not as surprised when I have to do it for real. Today I started experimenting with countersteering. It's not nearly as hard as I thought it would be.
Had a bit of a goof today: From a stop, I had to start on a hill and turn right. Couldn't decide if I should hold the bike with the front or rear brake. I went with rear so only 1 foot on the ground. I took off fairly smooth but as I was turning, I was creeping toward the oncoming lane. I slipped the clutch but apparently twisted the throttle too: RPM shot up as I let in the clutch, rear tire squealed and then caught, and the bike wobbled a bit - but i didn't drop her! Only hurt my pride

Guess I need to practice those hill starts some more

Chris Schneiter · « **Reply #13 on:** June 12, 2006, 12:57:18 PM »

Looks really nice! Most of us have to work forever to get them to look that nice! Parking lots are great! When I got my 750, I had let my cycle endorsement lapse. When I got it the first time, all you had to do was do a figure 8 and stop. I did it on a Yamaha 250 Enduro that weighed nothing. Now I had to take a full obstacle course (the test has gotten much more thorough) on a 500lb. 750! Yeah my parking lot helped a lot!
I'm not sure if it's the same side cover, but I saw them in the JC Whitney catalogue for $29.95.

Klark Kent · « **Reply #14 on:** June 12, 2006, 01:59:22 PM »

Left town for a couple days and very happy to return to some good advice. Wednesday I am synching carbs, adjusting the timing and replacing the swingarm bushings. Thursday I may ride. Thanks for the helpful hints and life saving wisdom The nitty gritty details really demystify the process and turn my paranoia into preparedness. All i can ask for is MORE MORE MORE! best ego bruising story wins my undying respect. Someone has dropped a bike and I want to know why!

Really, you could save a beautiful bike from unsavory scarring. Next time you see the bike, you can say- because i was able to swallow my pride and describe my initial difficulties and mistakes, this bike is still intact- not to mention the rider.

-KK

Klark Kent · « **Reply #15 on:** June 12, 2006, 08:02:18 PM »

oneotherthing,

surprised no one has commented on stting the valves at .003 and .004 (asopposedto .002 & 3). Never before have i flown in the face of convention and met with such little naysaying. what gives- should I take it that my (admitedly not bright) friend is right on in his overcompensation of the valve kind? well then...

--KK

Noel · « **Reply #16 on:** June 12, 2006, 10:22:57 PM »

I know some folks run their valves slightly loose. I don't see the point, but it probably won't hurt anything. Were it my bike, I'd set them to spec; you are trusting your "not bright" friend's opinion over the "pretty damn bright" Honda engineers.

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What else should I be doing with a newly aquired 550 that has been sitting for 2 years, but looks like the previous 29 were very very good to it?

I'd give the complete standard tune-up.

Plugs (I'd just put new ones in)
Drive chain adjust/lubricate/replace?
Control linkage check and cable lube
Steering play check
Points adjustment and cam lube
Timing (Folks will disagree with me but IMO static timing is adequate)
Cam chain adjustment
Fuel petcock filter
Air cleaner cleaning or replacement
Spoke tension
Oil and filter (they all come with stuck bolts. Be a REALLY good idea to replace the oil and filter; do a search on "filter bolt" to get that out of your way)
Oil screen/pan filter
And pretty much every nut and bolt you can find.

Personally, I always want to know compression and/or leakdown first thing, but that may be just me.

You may want to replace the wheel bearings at some point in the not-too-distant future. You can almost certainly get along with the current bearings, but 30+ year old bearings -- especially in the front -- give me the willies. Again, maybe just me.

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I also need a right side cover if anyone has extras?

They turn up on Ebay pretty regularly. The aftermarket ones are just okay; they're made with slightly junky ABS plastic and need to be drilled and bolted on. For the price, you can find a decent OEM one on Ebay, if you're patient.

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...and ANY other info about this particular model, comments, criticisms, and general musings welcome.

Great bike, man. Maybe the best of the bunch. Welcome aboard and have fun!

Noel · « **Reply #17 on:** June 12, 2006, 10:35:39 PM »

BTW, the only possible weakness that I'm aware of with these bikes is the camchain, and I'm not thoroughly convinced it's a big deal. Some folks will tell you that the chain is only good for 30,000 miles. But OTOH I don't know too many folks who've actually broken one.

I eventually worried enough about it that I replaced mine (40,000 miles).

FWIW.

bryanj · « **Reply #18 on:** June 13, 2006, 05:52:39 AM »

Can do yo a copy of the genuine workshop manual on CD for $10 including the airmail and i will liook to see if i have a RH sidecover in your colour about, i have some NOS ones BUT they cost me a lot (about $40 each if i remember right) Email me direct to blj@blj.org.uk if you want a manual

Klark Kent · « **Reply #19 on:** June 13, 2006, 02:13:37 PM »

Maybe bright was the wrong word. HE isnt the sharpest tool in the shed, but the most useful tools never are. As opposed to me, who is a smart ass with some mechanical ability, he wouldn't be considered brain surgeon material, but if my brain was made of metal and ran on gasoline i would want him in there. mechanically very bright. so i was just looking for some more explanation as to why it is a good idea, or some info to the contrary: ie bad idea. cam chain doesn't seem to be complaining- only 22,000 miles- what should one look out for as far as noises etc that indicate what will soon be a broken cam chain?
thank you for your very helpful posting and the compliments are always nice. just out of curiosity, i love the bike (now that its running i have christened it the superpickle), but what is "best of the bunch"y about the 550K1 (?)

i AM looking for the shop manual and have found bound copies for $40. would rather a physical item, but i suppose given the cd i could make one at kinkos, a lot of time and similar m oney to just shelling out for the bound copy. If there was a free pdf version on the web i wouldnt mind doing the legwork as much. Best bet for securing a shop manual I can have with me in the garage? the haynes manual wont even be good toilet paper im afraid, but it has kept me aware of terminology as a i use this board to fill in its massive holes.

This board rules
-KK

Noel · « **Reply #20 on:** June 13, 2006, 10:28:58 PM »

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so i was just looking for some more explanation as to why it is a good idea, or some info to the contrary: ie bad idea.

I honestly can't give you any valid reasons other than my opinion that the bright folks at Honda arrived at their figures for a reason. Absent solid evidence that there is a better way, I personally stick to their suggestions.

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cam chain doesn't seem to be complaining- only 22,000 miles- what should one look out for as far as noises etc that indicate what will soon be a broken cam chain?

The bastard of it is that there apparently aren't any. The legend goes that one day you'll just be riding along when your engine suddenly dies and it takes a thousand bucks to get it going again. Legend further has it that this problem begins at around 30,000 miles. I'm not a huge believer in such legends, but by the same token, it took me two hours and thirty bucks to set my mind at ease. Probably worth it, at least to me.

FWIW, I asked the good folks around here to provide first hand accounts of cam chain failures and came up with nada. That certainly doesn't mean it doesn't happen -- hell, there could be thirty guys here with broken cam chains who simply never saw my post -- but it does lead me to believe that the legend contains a certain amount of apocrypha.

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thank you for your very helpful posting and the compliments are always nice. just out of curiosity, i love the bike (now that its running i have christened it the superpickle), but what is "best of the bunch"y about the 550K1 (?)

My pure unadulterated personal opinion is that the 500 is the best SOHC out there. It's not the lightest or the most powerful or the best handling, but it combines excellent characteristics into the best overall package, again IMO. The 550 is essentially identical, but probably has a better transmission and may have a more thoroughly engineered top end, at least in the 77-78 models. Personally, I have to withold final judgement until I've actually gained some experience with the 550, but it wouldn't surprise me to learn that the 550 is a slightly better bike than the 500.

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i AM looking for the shop manual and have found bound copies for $40. would rather a physical item, but i suppose given the cd i could make one at kinkos, a lot of time and similar m oney to just shelling out for the bound copy. If there was a free pdf version on the web i wouldnt mind doing the legwork as much. Best bet for securing a shop manual I can have with me in the garage? the haynes manual wont even be good toilet paper im afraid, but it has kept me aware of terminology as a i use this board to fill in its massive holes.

Dunno about the Haines manual, but I do think the Clymer is decent, despite the howls of derision that name brings. It does contain a few errors, and some of the information isn't laid out very well, but I think as a first manual it's pretty solid. I supplement my Clymer with a Honda shop manual which is very complete albeit a bit technical. You can download the complete manual from http://www.honda4fun.com/man_officina/man_officina.html

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This board rules.

Amen, brother.

csendker · « **Reply #21 on:** June 14, 2006, 08:45:43 AM »

tintin provided this link --> http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=10576.msg99481#msg99481 to a higher resolution copy of the 500/550 Shop Manual.

Klark Kent · « **Reply #22 on:** June 14, 2006, 02:35:00 PM »

muchas gracias

that is a much better copy. i remembered a post where tintin had given the pdf link, so i searched his old posts and actually found the better quality version just before going to work this morning. (set it to print and came home to a physical shop manual

) Why isn't this a sticky of some sort, or if it is, where should i look for future technical manuals (because we all know i will eventually want a 400 and a 750 and a 350)

I have an issue with one floatbowl overflowing that wasnt before i disassembled them after reassembly but i should probably start a new thread about that after a good search to avoid redundancy. LOTS OF BIG THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO EXPRESSED INTEREST AND WISDOM ON MY BIKES BEHALF- YOUR HELP IS SO KEY.

--KK

csendker · « **Reply #23 on:** June 14, 2006, 07:02:18 PM »

Float pins will stick open with just a tiny bit of whatever. What type of gas filter are you using? The integral petcock filter should be OK if it's in good shape. I think you can still get replacements. Or try the inline versions, like I do. I don't have any problems so far, but others - many? - have reported air locks, etc. so mount them carefully and remember it's a gravity feed system.

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Author Topic: Greetings and Grovelings (Read 3252 times)