Topic: Front fork gap

[Davidov]

This is regarding my 69 CL350, but the logic applies to any bike with a standard triple clamp front fork setup.

I removed the front wheel a few months ago while working on other parts of the bike. Replaced wheel bearing, brake shoes (front drum), and the front tube and tire.
Now when going to re install, it is as if the forks tensioned inward, and the front wheel will not fit in between.

I made sure the front brake panel, bearings, axle, and spacer collar were all assembled correctly.

Is it possible that the front forks were allowed the tweak inward without the installed tension of the front wheel?

[70CB750]

How much is it over for a fit?

I suppose the tripple tree is all straight and square and forks too?

[Davidov]

I removed the spacer collar to see how it fit. The brake lever arm contacts the left fork (as viewed from the rider's position). The right side fork contacts the wheel hub.

I just installed All Balls steering bearings, perhaps the torque on the upper and lower triple clamps is causing this?

Visuals aids:

[Davidov]

This is the Right side.

[Doum]

bent fork?

[MCRider]

There is no allowable amount of "tweak". The forks should drop onto the wheel/axle with thousandths to spare. No resistance, no fudging.

If it fit before it should fit now.
Not fam with your bike, but on 4s the most common mistake is to put the axle in from the wrong side. The nut side goes on one side only, should e clear in a parts diagram fish.

If you've had the tubes out, maybe one of them was bent (Doum) and you've not replaced it exactly the same.

With the front supported, loosen the upper and lower trip tree clamps and rotate the tubes. If the bottom of the leg moves in and out the tube is bent. Set the tube(s) where the wheel will fit. Ride sparingly. Prepare to get new tubes or have the old ones repaired.

[HondaMan]

Loosen the triple tree clamps and rotate the fork legs. They may be slightly bent, causing the misalignment. This is pretty common. In the end, try to make both bends point either forward or backward, so the forks won't bind.

Or, take the tubes out and get them straightened?

[Davidov]

Not fam with your bike, but on 4s the most common mistake is to put the axle in from the wrong side. The nut side goes on one side only, should e clear in a parts diagram fish.

I checked several times, and made sure I put the axle in the correct way.

Loosen the triple tree clamps and rotate the fork legs. They may be slightly bent, causing the misalignment. This is pretty common. In the end, try to make both bends point either forward or backward, so the forks won't bind.
Or, take the tubes out and get them straightened?

Agreed, thanks to both of you. I'll try it again.

[Davidov]

2 problems that I resolved. The front brake linkage was installed facing the correct way, but the leading lever was flipped. So the brake linkage was interfering with the left fork.

Other problem was just as they called it. I twisted the upper forks until the gap was spot on, as designed. No excess gap.

[MCRider]

2 problems that I resolved. The front brake linkage was installed facing the correct way, but the leading lever was flipped. So the brake linkage was interfering with the left fork.

Other problem was just as they called it. I twisted the upper forks until the gap was spot on, as designed. No excess gap.

Good on #1. That briefly flittered thru my mind, but not familiar.

As to #2: That trick will make it work. But it also confirms one or both of the tubes is bent, if even ever so slightly. Turning the tubes should not result in any movement of the lower legs towards or away from each other. Now that the wheel is in place, you may see the bend manifest itself in the top trees. Handlebar may look offset. If it doesn't bother you, party on!   

[Davidov]

Is it possible for some models to have a slight "rake" (not the proper term)? As in a slight slope from the triple clamps to the fork lowers?

[MCRider]

Is it possible for some models to have a slight "rake" (not the proper term)? As in a slight slope from the triple clamps to the fork lowers?

Not in the tube itself.

However The angle of the tubes as they are held by the upper and lower triples, may be slightly more than the angle of the headstock. (steering neck). Measured from vertical.  This angle would be called Rake and the difference in the closeness of the clamps to the centerline of the headstock (where the neck bearings are held. is known as "offset".

I may not have all that quite right, but the answer to your question is yes. But that doesn't change the issue with a tube being bent. They are never bent from the factory.

I invite anyone to correct me. And I know I've seen some excellent diagrams of these relationships with the terms pointed out.

[MCRider]

As I thought, I did not use Rake correctly either. hre's some info:
http://www.tonyfoale.com/book/Geom.PDF

But it doesn't address your question. The angle of the tubes as controlled by the clamps can be more or less than the rake of the steering head. But i don't think it is common esp in production bikes.

[Davidov]

As I thought, I did not use Rake correctly either. hre's some info:
http://www.tonyfoale.com/book/Geom.PDF

But it doesn't address your question. The angle of the tubes as controlled by the clamps can be more or less than the rake of the steering head. But i don't think it is common esp in production bikes.

Thank you! I always like to learn something new.

I wondered if it was part of manufacturing, because once I got both fork tube in the right position, the gap was fractional. I figured it the tubes were in fact bent, the gap of the forks to the wheel would be wrong in a directions.