Topic: Help me install tapered bearing kit

[killersoundz]

I know there are already numerous threads on this but the search doesn't seem to be working? Sorry in advance for beating a dead horse.



I've already got everything disassembled, all the races out and even the race off the bottom of the steering neck came off relatively easily. I managed to save the little rubber seal in case I can use that?

From here it's straight forward enough I just have a few small questions. When I put the steering neck in my frame without any bearings at all, up the furthest it can go it will move freely and hit the stops correctly without any obstructions. With that said, will I need to use a washer on the bottom? I'm thinking no.

Where do the seals go that are included in the kit? Very bottom and very top of the assembly?

They could have really took the time to include a little guide with the kit.

That's all for now

[killersoundz]

Any specific kind of packing grease I should be using on these, or just whatever I can find?

[cmonSTART]

Those kits are a bit light on instructions IMO.  A picture from the manufacturer would help! 

I did mine a couple months ago so bear with me.  I do have a washer on the bottom, though I forget which one.  And, I do have the seals top and bottom of the assembly. 

Any normal multi-purpose #2 grease will be fine. 

[Old Scrambler]

I used the thick washer on the bottom for my K3 and Lithium grease, its white and does not degrade or mix with moisture.  The washer acts as a spacer so the top triple-clamp will seat properly.

[killersoundz]

Ok. Assuming my k4 is same as your k3 I'll shoot for the thick washer..

Just thinking about it doesn't seem like that would leave enough thread for the 'big top nut' to thread into. The top tapered bearing won't seat all the way down it sticks up like 1/2" out of the neck, leaving even less thread.

[CycleRanger]

You can use the thick washer to aid in driving on the lower race.  Any quality bearing grease will be fine.
This is a from my 750K5 btw.

[killersoundz]

Use the thick washer to aid in driving on the lower race.  Any quality bearing grease will be fine.

Ok, so you've got the thin washer. one of those seals, and then the bearing? Sounds about right.

I noticed the two seals that are included are slightly different but basically the same size. Does it matter which one gets used?

[CycleRanger]

One fits the larger bearing and the fits the smaller bearing.

[killersoundz]

One should fit on the bottom and one on top.

I could have sworn they're like the exact same size except for one has a ridge around the outside. I'll check it out again!

[SohRon]

I know there are already numerous threads on this but the search doesn't seem to be working

That's very strange because, using the Google search function, I came up with 511 results (using the search parameters "install tapered bearings").

Here's the most pertinent: a 22 page thread that will answer every question you have:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=1516.0

Use the search! 

[killersoundz]

I did not see the google search bar before. I clicked on the forum search.

Still, I gathered some info right in here that wasn't as clear in that thread, so I call it a win

[shorty24]

I literally just installed this bearing set on my bike two days ago.  I've never done anything like it before, and the instructions that came with it were garbage (it honestly didn't even have install instructions), but it only ended up taking me about a half hour.  I had a lot of help from shinyribs, so here are a few tips he gave me I will pass along. 

1.  The order of the parts from the bottom of the neck up are: spacer washer (my 550F used the thin spacer), rubber cup seal (with the rubber cup facing up, towards the bearing), bearing, race...then for the upper set; race, bearing, rubber cup seal (with the cup facing down, towards the bearing), spanner nut, top triple, stock washer and nut.

2.  Keeping the old lower race is a great help in installing the new one; just get the new race started in the neck, then place the old one up against it and pound it the rest of the way in.  The old race will force the new one all the way up into the neck, but shouldn't go up far enough into the neck that it will get stuck back in itself.  Also, the top race should stick up out of the neck a little bit, that's normal.

3.  You can put the triple and the new races in the freezer, this may help when installing the parts (I also used some lithium grease to help everything slide into place). 

4.  You can differentiate the lower bearing parts from the uppers due to the fact that all of the lower parts should be a slightly larger diameter. 

I think that's pretty much everything.  I forgot to re-route my cables and some wires around the forks before I reinstalled the forks, so I had to take the forks back off...

[matt mattison]

Make sure you measure the height of the old bearing stack before driving anything onto your triple tree neck. You need to pick the correct shim from your kit. Do not assume someone with the same bike uses the same thickness shim as you will. Measure twice, drive once! Freeze the lower triple overnight, and install everything else onto the lower triple warm, this will keep the pounding to a minimum.

[DJ_AX]

I've installed these bearings on my 550 and my 750. Both times I didn't heat or freeze anything and they went on fine.
Just don't let 'em get cock-eyed and crooked!

[killersoundz]

I have to admit, I don't really have the old bearing parts laying around in an orderly fashion where I can check out the stack height. I'm going to pray and use the thin washer? Sound good?

[DJ_AX]

My 550 and 750 both worked with the thinner washer.

[killersoundz]

My 550 and 750 both worked with the thinner washer.

Thanks. Yeah I'm confident on the thin washer.

[matt mattison]

LOL, I chucked my bearing stack too when I did mine. This is what I did, for the bottom of the triple tree tube you need to take a measurement. I used my caliper and measure from the bottom of the tube up to the shoulder/stop inside the tube. Write down that measurement. Now put together you bearing stack on your bench with one of the two shims provided. Measure the stack. Write it down. Now remove the shim and add the other one. Take and write that measurement. Use whatever shim that puts you closest to that lower inner triple tree measurement. The dimension of the bearing stack and the inner lower tube dimension probably wont match up exactly, so use whatever configuration that has the closest dimension.

[SohRon]

Still, I gathered some info right in here that wasn't as clear in that thread, so I call it a win

So, did you look at the other 510 results? None of them answered your question?

[shinyribs]

You''ll be fine with the thin washer. I have even done one (750)with no spacer washer at all. It was accidentally left off and it still cleared fine.

[lucky]

I know there are already numerous threads on this but the search doesn't seem to be working? Sorry in advance for beating a dead horse.



I've already got everything disassembled, all the races out and even the race off the bottom of the steering neck came off relatively easily. I managed to save the little rubber seal in case I can use that?

From here it's straight forward enough I just have a few small questions. When I put the steering neck in my frame without any bearings at all, up the furthest it can go it will move freely and hit the stops correctly without any obstructions. With that said, will I need to use a washer on the bottom? I'm thinking no.

Where do the seals go that are included in the kit? Very bottom and very top of the assembly?

They could have really took the time to include a little guide with the kit.

That's all for now

People keep complaning that the search feature does not work.
All you have to do is go to Google and type in the words and it will show you SOHC articles. No problem.

[killersoundz]

Got it installed. It's very stiff! It seems like the bottom bearing is rubbing up against the seal pretty hard. I was expecting it to be smooth as glass. Is it ok to have stiff steering like that? Doesn't matter how tight or loose the top nut is either really.

Could also be that they're freshly heavily greased?

[Old Scrambler]

Its most likely rubbing on the frame.........solved by using the thick washer.  Do not tighten the collar more than SNUG.......

[killersoundz]

Its most likely rubbing on the frame.........solved by using the thick washer.  Do not tighten the collar more than SNUG.......

Not rubbing on the frame at all

[killersoundz]

I think my expectations were too high of how smooth it would be. I backed off the main nut a little and it takes a strong pinky finger to turn it but it's not that stiff I guess. I was just expecting it to rotate super easily.