Topic: 1st Ride report - please advise

[stereosilence]

I just got done with the carb rebuild/sync (among other things) and rode it around. I moved the needles one notch richer, so now the popping on decel. is gone.

I am used to riding my 1000cc V-twin sport bike, so I am not sure how it is supposed to feel, so give me your thoughts.

The bike seems to really be happy around 5-6k. If I try to ride 1st gear below 3, it goes down and dies. If I am cruising and want to accelerate, I need to give it a good amount of gas to get it to go (which is does quite nicely, I think). Between 3k-5k, it is pretty anemic but it goes.

Other than that, my master brake cyclinder is leaking down the brake handle (coming from inside somewhere) and when I hold in the clutch and hit a bump, or shift down into 1st, I here a *dong* sound.

A penny for your thoughts? Whatever the case, I am SO glad to be back on the road!

[ekpent]

If you have nice paint that you like then watch the brake fluid. 

[TwoTired]

Is this the 1975 Cb550K?
Stock air filter and exhaust?

The bike seems to really be happy around 5-6k. If I try to ride 1st gear below 3, it goes down and dies.

You mean it won't idle?  --clogged pilot jets.
What did you set the pilot mixture screws to?

If I am cruising and want to accelerate, I need to give it a good amount of gas to get it to go (which is does quite nicely, I think). Between 3k-5k, it is pretty anemic but it goes.

You drive these bikes with the transmission and your left foot as well as the throttle.  If you want to scoot, down shift a gear or three.  Anything below red line is fair game (9200 RPM).  They have about 1/4 the torque (or less) than a big V twin.

... when I hold in the clutch and hit a bump, or shift down into 1st, I here a *dong* sound.

Loose chain whipping about and hitting the plastic guard.  Check chain for proper tension and replace if it has "tight spots" along its travel.

[DJ_AX]

... I'm interested to hear what others say.
 
I just got my 75 550 running well ...I think.

I'm not entirely sure as the only thing I have to compare it to right now is my 750 which is running great.

My 550... the lower rpms are noticeably weaker than on the 750... the 550 pulls yes but... really begins accelerate fast over 4k to 5k right up to the redline.

I recently had  a partially clogged idle jet which emphasized the lower rpm weakness... while still (sort of) running ok. ... it ran similar the way you describe but didn't die below 3k when warmed up. While warming up or cruising #4 pipe would only get warm. Re-cleaned all orifices... smoothed out very nicely... 550 runs much better...  I can get going with 1st gear engaged and over 5k pretty quickly... and then easily fire through the next few gears.

but still...
the pull  does feel ...different... then that of the 750 to me.

At any rate... I would make sure it can stop ... before I make it go fast!

[stereosilence]

I just did a carb rebuild, so everything is clean. I have unipods. Stock needles and jets. Idle screws out 2.5. It idles just fine, you just can't ride it with the clutch out at 3k or below.

Sounds like I am about in the same place as DJ_AX. The chain is a POS. I have new sprockets and my new chain is in the mail. I guess I just had high expectations about what it would be after I cleaned my carbs, synced, and set timing. Like DJ_AX, if I pop it up to 5k and above, it will really zip. In the future, if I get frisky I may try to up the main jet some.

DJ_AX, what is your airbox/exhaust/jet setup?

btw, my rear brake works very nicely so stopping is not a problem.

[Tews19]

You may have cleaned the carbs but how does the inside of the tank look? All the hard work of cleaning carbs goes to waste when the tank is dirty. Did you clean out the fuel lines? The bike shouldn't struggle at 3k and below. I would follow TT leads... Which 550 do you have? Set up? Do you have spark to all cylinders?

[stereosilence]

Just cleaned and resealed the tank. Fuel lines are brand new. I have spark in all cylinders. '75 550k. I was pretty sure the low end issue was due to the pods. Do the idle screws affect the low end performance?

[Tews19]

When I am dealt with a problem like yours .... I always cool off. Take a day, #$%* take two.... relax then get back to her. Always better to work clear headed then all flustered

[TwoTired]

I just did a carb rebuild, so everything is clean. I have unipods. Stock needles and jets. Idle screws out 2.5. It idles just fine, you just can't ride it with the clutch out at 3k or below.

That's what mine did when I tried to turn the air bleed screws are out too far.  How did you arrive at 2.5 turns out?
The idle must be set over rich, because the carbs have no accelerator pump.
Try about 1 1/8 turns out from seated.  That should at least improve the off idle throttle response.  But, you'll never be able to snap the throttle open more than one half the remaining travel, due the the mechanically linked slides and no accelerator pump.

What position is the slide needle clipped to?  What's the main jet size?  Are your carbs 022a?  Stock exhaust?

Cheers,

[stereosilence]

I think I'll try turning the idle screws back in. I had them turned out because it seemed to make it idle better when I first got it running. The carbs are whatever is stock for a 75 cb550k. You can see them on my build thread.

I have stock (38/98, I think) jets with the clip on the richest setting and drag pipes.

[mronegear]

You should also experiment with the needle setting. Stock ist 2nd notch from the top.
My setup with v-stacks is 3rd notch from the top, so your needle setup seem a little extreme to
me.
Get back closer to the stock setup und work step by step from there on. Will make it much easier to
figure out which carb setup your bike needs!
cheers!

[TwoTired]

You should also experiment with the needle setting. Stock ist 2nd notch from the top.

True only for the 069a carbs found on the F model.
K model 022a carbs have the stock position at 4th notch from the top.

With unknown quality/performance pods and drag pipes, it may never run as well on the street as when in stock tune.  Depends entirely on how much effort and money the tuner is willing to spend on making the design changes "work".

And yes, a poorly tuned Cb550 will have lots of ill operating behavior.

[stereosilence]

I had popping when it was on 4th notch from the top. That is why I moved it to the last one when I cleaned them.

I'm not saying the performance is bad, I just don't know what to expect. I hope to get together with some Atlanta guys and maybe they can take a gander and let me know how it is doing.

[Tews19]

Can post a vid of the bike running

[lucky]

I just got done with the carb rebuild/sync (among other things) and rode it around. I moved the needles one notch richer, so now the popping on decel. is gone.

I am used to riding my 1000cc V-twin sport bike, so I am not sure how it is supposed to feel, so give me your thoughts.

The bike seems to really be happy around 5-6k. If I try to ride 1st gear below 3, it goes down and dies. If I am cruising and want to accelerate, I need to give it a good amount of gas to get it to go (which is does quite nicely, I think). Between 3k-5k, it is pretty anemic but it goes.

Other than that, my master brake cyclinder is leaking down the brake handle (coming from inside somewhere) and when I hold in the clutch and hit a bump, or shift down into 1st, I here a *dong* sound.

A penny for your thoughts? Whatever the case, I am SO glad to be back on the road!

Which motorcycle?
What year?
Idle jet?
Etc.etc.

[lucky]

... I'm interested to hear what others say.
 
I just got my 75 550 running well ...I think.

I'm not entirely sure as the only thing I have to compare it to right now is my 750 which is running great.

My 550... the lower rpms are noticeably weaker than on the 750... the 550 pulls yes but... really begins accelerate fast over 4k to 5k right up to the redline.

I recently had  a partially clogged idle jet which emphasized the lower rpm weakness... while still (sort of) running ok. ... it ran similar the way you describe but didn't die below 3k when warmed up. While warming up or cruising #4 pipe would only get warm. Re-cleaned all orifices... smoothed out very nicely... 550 runs much better...  I can get going with 1st gear engaged and over 5k pretty quickly... and then easily fire through the next few gears.

but still...
the pull  does feel ...different... then that of the 750 to me.

At any rate... I would make sure it can stop ... before I make it go fast!

To me an engine with a clogged idle jet is unrideable and i won't take it out of the shop.

[stereosilence]

Nothing is clogged or dirty. Inside of the tank is spotless, new fuel lines, complete carb clean, fresh gas.

I think I already mentioned this but:

1975 550k
Jets: 38/98 (stock)
Needle setting: Richest notch (was lean one notch up)
Unipods
drag pipes (w/ new exhaust gaskets)
Spark present
timing, valve clearance, oil change, cam chain tension adjusted, proper electrical wiring all within the last few hundred miles (if that much)
Fully charged battery + strong charging system

It does need a new chain. I have sprockets ready and am waiting for the chain in the mail.

Thus, I think it is just a what to expect + what to shoot for when carb tuning thread.

[mono]

from everything i've read, i think you probably need to up your jet sizes.  sounds like you've taken care of all other tuning operations that you can.  i'm in a similar place with my bike and need to increase my jet sizes.

PS - they're also going to ask you where your float bowls are set 

PPS - no one seems to have addressed the brake issue, but it sounds like you need a MC rebuild.  kits are pretty cheap - around $20, and you'll need some circlip pliers.

[TwoTired]

1975 550k
Jets: 38/98 (stock)

No K model ever came with #98 main jets in stock form.  They were all #100, as specified for the 022a carb set up profile.

Only the F model with the 069a carbs had #98 mains in stock form.

[Deltarider]

Don't be tempted to use the airscrews to get the nicest idle possible. You will get it, but find out it will accelerate poorly. I can make my 500 pur like a kitten with the aircrews 2,5 turns out, but to have proper acceleration, they have to be 1 turn out. Unfortunately the idle then is not as nice. As TT says, that's the disadvantage of not having acceleration pumps. Alway start with standard setting.

[stereosilence]

Apparently I was cursed by the carb gods today. I turned the idle screws to 1.5x out, got it idling, and took off. I hit the interstate for a while and when I ran into traffic, my bike wouldn't idle anymore. I tried fiddling with the idle screws some more, but no luck. Once at my destination, I did more fiddling before taking off again.

If I get the bike idling, when I start going, the tach leaps up to about 4 and just stays there (due to the idle screw). When I correct the idle screw and accelerate and then pull in the clutch, the tach sinks to about 3k for 10-20 seconds and then lowers on down until it cuts off. What is going on?

[Tews19]

Apparently I was cursed by the carb gods today. I turned the idle screws to 1.5x out, got it idling, and took off. I hit the interstate for a while and when I ran into traffic, my bike wouldn't idle anymore. I tried fiddling with the idle screws some more, but no luck. Once at my destination, I did more fiddling before taking off again.

If I get the bike idling, when I start going, the tach leaps up to about 4 and just stays there (due to the idle screw). When I correct the idle screw and accelerate and then pull in the clutch, the tach sinks to about 3k for 10-20 seconds and then lowers on down until it cuts off. What is going on?

I had something really odd happen to me today with mine. Did a complete clean and sync. POsted a videos of the process and it ran great. Well today before going to the store I always liek to start the bikes up if i haven't ridden for a while. Started bike and it sounded rough. I touched the pipes, all burnt my hand minus #1..... Ice cold. confused I grabbed my spare spark plug to see if 1 has spark. it did. Then I removed the bowl. Dead dry. I was like Fchjsahdfh kidding me. with bowl off I turned teh fuel on.... No gas coming up. I was like askldjfaklsdjfklja........reomved my float and the little arrow looking thing somehow fell out. I was going to pull the brass thing it goes in.. Common sense told me to turn on gas. BOOM gas pouring out..... Put it back on and everything is great again!!!!!!!!!!

Not trying to hijack but maybe something to look into. See if all cylinders are getting gas.

[stereosilence]

Well, I was on the interstate, it went 80 as usual no problem. So I don't think it is a "getting gas" issue.

[mono]

Apparently I was cursed by the carb gods today. I turned the idle screws to 1.5x out, got it idling, and took off. I hit the interstate for a while and when I ran into traffic, my bike wouldn't idle anymore. I tried fiddling with the idle screws some more, but no luck. Once at my destination, I did more fiddling before taking off again.

If I get the bike idling, when I start going, the tach leaps up to about 4 and just stays there (due to the idle screw). When I correct the idle screw and accelerate and then pull in the clutch, the tach sinks to about 3k for 10-20 seconds and then lowers on down until it cuts off. What is going on?

the only thing that holds the float needles in are the floats.  i just did a rebuild on my carbs and ran into a float needle with a weaker spring than the others.  not saying that's your problem, but you may want to make sure the float needles are clean and functioning properly. 

I had something really odd happen to me today with mine. Did a complete clean and sync. POsted a videos of the process and it ran great. Well today before going to the store I always liek to start the bikes up if i haven't ridden for a while. Started bike and it sounded rough. I touched the pipes, all burnt my hand minus #1..... Ice cold. confused I grabbed my spare spark plug to see if 1 has spark. it did. Then I removed the bowl. Dead dry. I was like Fchjsahdfh kidding me. with bowl off I turned teh fuel on.... No gas coming up. I was like askldjfaklsdjfklja........reomved my float and the little arrow looking thing somehow fell out. I was going to pull the brass thing it goes in.. Common sense told me to turn on gas. BOOM gas pouring out..... Put it back on and everything is great again!!!!!!!!!!

Not trying to hijack but maybe something to look into. See if all cylinders are getting gas.

[Lostboy Steve]

I think its the PODs, mine was doing the exact same thing until I got it tuned to where its almost perfect. Even now sometimes it still has a hovering idle between gears or for a few seconds after the throttle is blipped. I may put the airbox back in and stop #$%*ing with it. I JUST WANNA RIDE..

[stereosilence]

I found out that I have no vacuum on my gauge when I hooked it back up. I restated all the information and started a new thread for this topic.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=107806.0