Author Topic: I have reached the end of adjustment on the timing plate and cant get the F (Read 2169 times)

lostmykeys · « **on:** May 31, 2012, 04:17:40 PM »

Now what? does this meen I didn't do the static timing right?

Rigid · « **Reply #1 on:** May 31, 2012, 05:36:53 PM »

Adjust your point gap on 1-4 and try again. The gap will have to be adjusted, within range, to get things right.

BobbyR · « **Reply #2 on:** May 31, 2012, 05:46:01 PM »

You can make minor timing adjustments with the points. Be sure to use a timing light so that you use the minimum gap change.

lostmykeys · « **Reply #3 on:** May 31, 2012, 10:55:58 PM »

My gap is at .14 on both sets of points.
.12 is the minimum. Are you saying that I should start there?
If you have time please splain the logic in this because I know nothing.

Accolay · « **Reply #4 on:** June 01, 2012, 01:08:31 AM »

Do you have TEC points or the Daiichi points?

dave500 · « **Reply #5 on:** June 01, 2012, 01:49:54 AM »

use an electronic unit.

BobbyR · « **Reply #6 on:** June 01, 2012, 06:24:49 AM »

Quote from: lostmykeys on May 31, 2012, 10:55:58 PM

My gap is at .14 on both sets of points.
.12 is the minimum. Are you saying that I should start there?
If you have time please splain the logic in this because I know nothing.

No what I meant was you set your points correctly say .14. You use a timing light. Using the timing plate get the timing as close as you can. For that last little bit you can adjust the points for those cylinders that are out to give you that last little bit. This is not feeler gauge work.

There is a second option people have done. You can make the slots longer using a round file which will give you extra adjustment. At some point you will want to go electronic.

Lil Red · « **Reply #7 on:** June 01, 2012, 07:19:10 AM »

Take alook here about 7 or 8 down by two tired....it may help...

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=5752.0

Oh and spring for a HondaMan ignition kit so you only have to do all this once or twice in your lifetime.

80 bucks. About what ? Three sets of high quality points...and not that it's better per say...it just sounds to me that you dont enjoy dealing with these issues....some people LOVE it...

Tugboat · « **Reply #8 on:** June 01, 2012, 09:10:08 AM »

Cam chain stretched?

lostmykeys · « **Reply #9 on:** June 01, 2012, 10:11:58 AM »

Their TEC points and plate.
I managed to get 1/4 & 2/3 lined up on the F mark at idle By moving the 2/3 points plate a bit.
I'm still getting alittle ping when the bike is fully warmed up.It takes about 15 min of riding for it to start pinging and its only hapening from a dead stop.Im wondering if adjusting my air/fuel mixture screws might help.Right now they are at 1.75 turns out wich is the adjusment for the 78 f3.

lucky · « **Reply #10 on:** June 01, 2012, 10:31:13 AM »

Quote from: lostmykeys on May 31, 2012, 04:17:40 PM

Now what? does this meen I didn't do the static timing right?

Something is wrong.
Go back and do it again.

Bodi · « **Reply #11 on:** June 01, 2012, 01:51:36 PM »

With a timing light check the timing at full advance, the other timing mark - over 3000 RPM should have full advance for sure but you can see it move with a timing light as you rev the engine. This is the important setting, the idle (no advance) F setting can be off as long as advance is OK. A worn or out-of-spec advancer can have more or less advance than "spec", but they aren't really adjustable. A few degrees off at "F" doesn't cause problems. Too much advance in the riding RPM range can cause pinging and overheating, even melt piston tops. Plus don't lug the engine. It likes to be above at least 4K to do any serious work. I have heard some detonation under throttle at low RPM on perfectly tuned engines, such abuse should be avoided.

lucky · « **Reply #12 on:** June 01, 2012, 01:54:47 PM »

Were they new points or USED points???

If you have the gap correct and then you start the bike and check the dwell and it is wrong then you will need new points if you cannot bring it into adjustment.

dylboss · « **Reply #13 on:** June 01, 2012, 04:45:03 PM »

i've had the same problem. I had to decrease my point gap. I was about in the middle of the spec range. Brought it down to lower end of spec range and it was spot on. I did use a timing light though, which is highly recommended and much more accurate.

lostmykeys · « **Reply #14 on:** June 01, 2012, 07:14:35 PM »

keep this thread alive,
The opposing views help the guy {like me} to hopefully get their timing right.
But I want my timing right so lets work together and and try to figure out the inevitable variables that exist in 30 plus year old engines that may cause pinging.
Thanks for your responses

Lil Red · « **Reply #15 on:** June 01, 2012, 07:25:32 PM »

I had the same problem, I got it as close as I could...and it just screams....I recommend you set it as best you can and check your valve clearences..synch the carbs and tweek your mix screws and run with it.

Bailgang · « **Reply #16 on:** June 01, 2012, 07:38:09 PM »

If you have the plate advanced as far as it will go and you still can't get your timing advanced enough then decreasing the point gap doesn't fly with me because that would just make it worse. I had the same problem with my kids 750 when we first fired it up, points plate advanced as far as it would go and it wasn't enough. I got around that by opening the gap on the points to the max spec which just barely got my timing close but having the gap that big threw my dwell way off. Good enough to run but what eventually fixed it at least in my case was installing a new advancer because the problem wasn't the points or the plate but instead the lobes on the old advancer were worn.

lostmykeys · « **Reply #17 on:** June 02, 2012, 08:17:56 AM »

I read on the honda chopper sight that the advancer can be tweeked if its out of spec.
It was something in reguard to the tabs that keep the weights in place during advance need to be bent in a tiny bit using a vice.

DJ_AX · « **Reply #18 on:** June 02, 2012, 08:49:36 AM »

Quote from: lostmykeys on June 02, 2012, 08:17:56 AM

I read on the honda chopper sight that the advancer can be tweeked if its out of spec.
It was something in reguard to the tabs that keep the weights in place during advance need to be bent in a tiny bit using a vice.

...and are very easy to break whilst doing so!

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #19 on:** June 02, 2012, 10:32:21 AM »

That plate can move side to side and up and down in addition to the clockwise/counterclockwise. There's some threads here on it. Make sure it isn't that...

dylboss · « **Reply #20 on:** June 02, 2012, 02:00:04 PM »

Oh, one other thing. Pull that advancer out and make sure that and the housing are spot clean. Some good brake cleaner will do the job. Put some very light grease on the inner diameter where it slips back on the shaft.

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Author Topic: I have reached the end of adjustment on the timing plate and cant get the F (Read 2169 times)