Author Topic: 1972 CL175 K6 - Poor Compression  (Read 1571 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline iya0yas

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 48
1972 CL175 K6 - Poor Compression
« on: June 05, 2012, 05:26:45 AM »
For the record we're talking about a '72 K6 with 5,300 miles.
Okay...well I bit the bullet and tore down the engine a 2nd time just to be sure the rings were installed correctly, i.e. manufacturer's mark facing upward and rings indexed 120 +/- deg. from one another...and I'm happy to report they were all good.  I assembled and mounted the engine in the chassis then remembered to check/reset valve clearances to 0.002".

I measured compression (dry) and recorded 80psi in the left and 50psi in the right cyl. (carbs removed). I then added some 10W-40 oil in each cylinder then recorded 120psi in the right and 80psi in the left cyl., still not within spec.

Ring clearance on all the new HONDA brand rings were within spec., I used new std. bore HONDA pistons and had the cylinders honed with a flex hone.  Compression was tested w/o the exhaust & carburetors installed, both spark plugs removed and no (or very little) crankcase oil (drained prior to tear down).   

Also worth noting is that I cleaned & re-used the base, head and rocker cover gaskets with Yama Bond #5. The engine was not run between rebuilds. Did a leak down test on the head with acetone to verify the valves were seating properly. (I also installed 2 new Viton O-Rings between the cylinder block and head to seal the two rear oil passageways)

So what gives...? Do the rings need to "seat" themselves to develop full compression? Not sure why such low compression and the relatively large variation in pressure between cylinders? Is there a preferred alternative to the HONDA brand rings?

Ring installation sequence (from top to bottom):


Hone profile:



I've run out of items to troubleshoot...any suggestions?

Offline w1sa

  • Hot Shot
  • ***
  • Posts: 444
Re: 1972 CL175 K6 - Poor Compression
« Reply #1 on: June 07, 2012, 06:21:21 AM »
Is your compression gauge a screw in type with a check valve at the spark plug end ?.....otherwise the readings are likely to be errant.

I haven't done a compression check on an un-run engine...I would expect though, that compression would not be great until the engine has been run and the sealing surfaces have begun to wear in and bed to some degree.

Most compression specs are quoted with the engine at about 80deg C or above...........I generally get best results on a warmed up engine, with plugs removed, choke off, wot...and multiple cranks/revs to peak the compression readings.