Topic: Hot to remove paint

[Kixom]

I just got my new Rat K8 delivered to my house. I'm scratching my head right now...

Bike was in posesion of this kid, who painted (almost) everything with rattlecan silver paint. Engine, carbs, wires, pipes, partially frame, overspray on instruments...
Pod filters are painted blue, shocks red... you get the picture.

 Acetone did a trick on controls, but may be to harsh for carbs and wires.

How do I go about safely removing this paint. Aircraft paint stripper (brand?), sand paper or something different altogether?

Check it out (don't laugh, please)     

[prsman23@hotmail.c]

No reply on the issue, but would like to say "PIMPS FO LIFE"!!!!!   

[prsman23@hotmail.c]

Oh yeah. And thanks for bringing this poor beast to a saner lifestyle!!! I'm guessing you are gonna bring it back to at least a nicer state then its current state so kudos to you for saving another life! (and probably the joker who was riding it- i'm assuming he rode it to it's max everytime he got on it, and didn't care to much (or think of) of the consequences.

[Pinhead]

To clean off parts, look for Zep Industrial Purple cleaner. If you leave something soak in it long enough, the paint will just wipe right off. It's an excellent degreaser and polisher. It's kind of "hard" on softer metals like aluminum, but that's partially why it polishes the metal up so well. It's slightly acidic and if you breathe in the overspray you'll be hacking and coughing, trying to catch your breath. It's no toy!! You buy it in 5-gallon buckets and dillute it with water. You don't want to use it "pure" because it'll tear up your skin (make your pores bleed). It's some pretty harsh stuff, but if you mix it right it works wonders. When dilluded correctly it won't do anything more than dry your hands out.

[bill440cars]

                 Aside from the paint, it looks like you've gotten a pretty decent bike to work on though.
          I'm sure you'll do good by it and we're glad for you. We're also anxious to see what you're
          going to do with it. There are plenty of good ideas and examples here on the site for you to
          go through. Good luck and I'll check you later on, Bill

[Boomologist]

Commercial paint stripper may work. I have been using spray carb cleaner on a rag to remove some paint. It will swell "O" rings.

[Green550F]

My neighbor's kid had an S10 with the same paint job except it was black with silver graffiti. Could've made a matching set!

[turtle]

We've been having a lot of success removing paint from metal (mainly alloy) with Septone paint stripper. It's kinda like molasses and smelly like solvent. I haven't tried it on plastic or rubber yet. Just paint it on, leave at least 15 minutes then wash off.

[750goes]

If you are going to clean it - remove one part at a time, and get the right cleaner/solvent/degreaser/paintstripper etc..and before you know it you should have a thousand parts laying everywhere

After cleaning - put the part back on the bike....then clean another piece/bit/bolt/screw/cable/fork....blalh blah blah....

What are your plans for the bike, Are you going to restore and ride it ?

First thing - rattle can that tank black - or you'll get unwanted attention when riding...

Welcome to the site, there are heaps of gurus here, and plenty of "Sh*t" stirrers as well.

[Bodain]

The best paint stripper I know for rattle can paint is brake fluid. It worked wonders when I didn't want it to. Then I started using it on purpose.

[keiths]

I'll second the brake fluid method. A friend of mine takes paint of plastic models with the stuff with no harm to the plastic. I would test a small spot first.

[DeLuxe]

I'll third the paint stripper method - my 400f came with a green engine (the laquer had gone a wierd shade of green). I tested a commercial stripper under the sump - one of those alkaline, jelly consistency ones, and found out that it oxidises the alloy with a vengance. Then I twigged to the brake fluid, which didn't attack the alloy at all. You have to leave it for a good while though.
I like the sound of the toxic sh*t in the first post mainly because of the alloy polishing effect it has, but it sounds like you need one of those nuclear enviro-suits to use it!

[Pinhead]

I like the sound of the toxic sh*t in the first post mainly because of the alloy polishing effect it has, but it sounds like you need one of those nuclear enviro-suits to use it!

Na, just rubber gloves. It doesn't really "polish" the aluminum. Just get down to bare metal. It'll completely eliminate any impurities on the surface, including corrosion/tarnish and oil. You don't want to let aluminum parts soak for more than 45 minutes or so, though, because it'll start to pit the metal.

[Kixom]

What are your plans for the bike, Are you going to restore and ride it ?

First thing - rattle can that tank black - or you'll get unwanted attention when riding...

I'm not riding it yet. First thing I did when the bike "arrived" in the back of the pickup truck, laying on it's side, was to remove the tank. That picture doesn't show all the "details". Anyway, it's completely rusted on the inside...

I'm cleaning the carbs with carb cleaner first, then wires. I'll leave cosmetics for the last step.

Thanks!!!

[BobbyR]

You may find that regular denatured alcohol which is the paint killer in brake fluid, may do the trick. You can get it cheap at Home Depot or Walmart or wherever paints are sold.