Author Topic: Huge newbie here and I have a bunch of annoying questions for anyone...  (Read 4953 times)

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Offline mhsull

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So...I just followed through on my dream and bought a 1977 CB750 FourK.  I have never worked on a motorcycle/car before so this is completely new territory for me and I am going to have a bunch of annoyingly simple questions as I slowly learn to work on this bike.  I am about to post a bunch of novice questions so feel free to answer any/all of them.  Please remember, I am a total novice so please respond like you are talking to a 10 year old (I am really 28 but still...).  I need help big time but I am willing to work on this and do what it takes to really maintain this bike.

Preface, I purchased a Clymer manual and it will be arriving in the next week or so.  Until then, I am attempting to use what appears to be the original manual that came with the bike.  There are very few illustrations (which I desperately need) and it looks like it is written for British bikers.

1. Is there a manual/site that has TONS of pictures that point out what everything is?  I am attempting to replace the blinker relay under the left side cover but I don't know where it is or what it looks like.

2. Following on the last question, I just want to make sure it is the blinker relay that needs to be replaced.  When I turn on my blinkers, they just light up.  They don't blink.  The instrument panel has about 4 bulbs that are out but occasionally (not every time) the left blinker makes a beeping sound when the blinker is on.  I have never owned a bike like this so I am not sure it is normal.  Does that sound like the relay?  Should replacing the bulbs and the relay take care of my problems?

3.  Starter button:  When I press the starter button, I can see it attempting to work (the lights dim and I can hear a faint sound like a straining motor) but nothing happens and I have to use the kick starter.  Does it sound like I just need to replace the starter?  Any tips on that/places to purchase them?

4. The bike came with a "Windjammer" fairing and no regular headlight/blinkers.  Can I just purchase blinkers, headlight, and bracket for the headlight and be able to plug existing wires into it after it is mounted?

5. Chrome: the exhaust pipes have a couple of small rust spots.  What is the best way to take care of that while preserving the pipes?  I love the 4 into 4 original pipes and I was hoping to keep them if possible. 

6.  I have just taken the tank off to have it professionally blasted and coated on the inside to keep it from rusting and I noticed the rubber grommet on the back of the tank that supposedly holds it onto the frame seems to be slightly ripped and easily torn.  Where can I buy a replacement?  Also, this seems pretty unstable to me.  I am used to a more secure fitting.  Any way to further secure this tank to the frame? Is that even necessary?

7.  Early replacements:  I have no idea what is critical to replace (throttle cables, fuses, spark plugs, fork oil, etc) when you first purchase a used 1977 CB750 with 22k miles.   Any advice here on what to attack first?

8.  Oil:  Good oil and oil filter to use for replacements?  Oil for the forks?  Engine grease/oil to lubricate parts?

9.  Fuel filter: where is this located and where can I buy a new one?  I read a blip saying "while the tank is off, replace the fuel filter".  Not sure if that is sage advice but I figured it couldn't hurt.

10. Cleaning, greasing, refurbishing engine parts:  I have this idea that I will slowly take apart this bike, basically clean it off, re grease everything, and put it back together to become a "like new" well oiled machine.  Is this a ridiculous thought?  What can I use to clean things like the chain, gears, etc?  What can I use to "re grease" or "oil up" the said cleaned items to return them to peak running performance state?


11:  Insert here any helpful advice that I am clearly overlooking.  I am open to any and all advice.  I have looked over the FAQ forum and I know some of these answers are there but I was hoping someone could respond in passing and help out a newbie. 

Thanks a lot for all of your help/advice.
1977 CB750K

Offline lucky

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Step ONE.... buy a Honda CB750 workshop manual. A Clymer's will do for now.

Yes...A book!

Then you will not have so many annoying questions.

Offline Stev-o

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First off welcome. And wow, you have a lot of questions!  I'll answer a couple but you need to know all of these have been asked and answered before. Use the Google custom search below the home page icon on this page to find you question and answer. 

1. Download the manual from this site and study it. Find it here:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=426.0

3.  Have you checked the voltage of your battery? You should have 12+ volts. Do you have a multimeter?? If not, buy one. I would bet your start is good, most likely the battery or a bad connection

5. You can patch small rust holes in your exhaust with high temp JB Weld.

8. The best oil? That is a loaded question!

Good luck.
'74 "Big Bang" Honda 750K [836].....'76 Honda 550F.....K3 Park Racer!......and a Bomber!............plus plus plus.........

Offline bender01

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Welcome. With those questions you have a strong clue! Lots of small parts can still be ordered from Honda at your dealer! Find the parts #s and take them there. It will be easier for you knowing what you want than them guessing. Search
[url=http:
 Under look up parts find your bike for parts pics and #s.
 Edit, My link to service honda was throwing a trojan on my computer. Any honda dealer has aparts fiche.
« Last Edit: June 17, 2012, 08:42:25 PM by bender01 »
75 550 K1
74 750 K4
1968 450 K1 Super Sport
74 750k 836 project
http://www.bikepics.com/members/bender01/
So, the strategy is to lie to people you are asking for help?

I think I'll be busy going for a ride.

Good luck!
Two Tired Quote !

Offline DJ_AX

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Step ONE.... buy a Honda CB750 workshop manual. A Clymer's will do for now.

Yes...A book!

Then you will not have so many annoying questions.

HA HA ... :)
Yes!

AND there is so much info HERE.. if you can master the SEARCH function above, than everything else will follow easily! :)
~ Vincent . . . '75 CB750 K5 . . . '97 BMW r1100rt . . . had; '75 CB550 K1 (sold) . . .  '73 CB350G (gifted) HELL YEAH!
Disclaimer: I could be wrong. :)

Offline billingstitan

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Congrats on your purchase!! These old bikes are like having a loose tooth when you were a kid - you know, they kind of hurt and feel great at the same time, lol  ;D

Just a couple thoughts for you:

1. My biggest suggestion is to just read and read and read. There is such a wealth of information on this forum it's totally awesome! Just fyi - use the google custom search to find stuff.

I've been like a vampire lurking on here forever - rebuilt my carbs, oil, brakes, etc. etc. etc. - The first I ever needed to actually post was just the other day trying to find some air cleaner boots for my CB550 - and within an hour or two someone pointed me to a supplier that runs about a third of what they go for on ebay - if you can even find them.

Anyway, not trying to discourage you from posting - after all, this is a forum - just saying to read as almost everything you need has probably been written about in amazing detail.

2. "...  the left blinker makes a beeping sound when the blinker is on.  I have never owned a bike like this so I am not sure it is normal."  ???

Lolz! CB's have a horn/buzzer that sounds kind of like the back-up warning for a truck that is there to subtly remind you to turn off your blinker ... don't know if I'd call it "normal"  ;D but it's a regular part of the charm of these CBs.

3. There are surprisingly a lot of good places to get parts - it really depends on what you need. Some places have great prices on certain items, while others have better on others. You just have to search around. Here are some of my regular haunts, though:

http://www.z1enterprises.com/
http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/parts.html
http://www.oldbikebarn.com/

Many others - it really depends on the specific part. When you need something in particular, post it up and be as precise as possible and these guys (and gals) will inevitably hook you up if it's a difficult to find or rare part.

As far as what to start with, I would look at some of these projects where people are putting bikes together as they inevitably end up creating a checklist of things to go through (usually accompanied by wails of pain as they get one thing fixed only to have another thing go wrong  :'( ) -

Typically it is a (never-ending) process of elimination.

My usual route with a new-to-me bike (although it varies) is to put in new spark plugs (check the gap); change the oil; clean the carbs incredibly, ridiculously, annoyingly well; check timing/points; followed by valve clearance; followed by synchronizing carbs.

That said - it's hard to really know on your bike - did it sit for years before you got it? Or did the PO ride it every day? If it sat, then you need to worry about your tires and brakes/master cylinder as well. You can't mess around with safety when it comes to bikes, especially if you're a newer rider.

4. For cleaning stuff, goop engine foam works pretty well and is fairly gentle. Personally, I'm a little too addicted to carb cleaner, lol, as sometimes it seems like it just works for EVERYTHING - but don't let that stuff near anything except metal. It will destroy rubber, plastic, etc.

I also really like brass bristled brushes - they do a good job of cleaning up stuff, but are soft enough that they don't leave a lot of scratches. Again - it really depends on the specific task at hand.

5. As far as oil, opinions will vary, but personally I just use the Honda motorcycle oil - you don't want to use car oil as it can raise havoc with your clutch.

6. I am also a fan of seafoam - I always run some through my tank once every two months or so as it seems (to me anyway) that it keeps the carbs clean and running well. In addition, it also keeps your gas in shape during down time over the winter.

7. TAKE PICTURES. TAKE PICTURES. TAKE PICTURES. This will save your a** - I am such a bonehead mechanically, yet I have managed to rebuild engines, restore bikes, etc. and godbless the digital camera because it gives you something to refer back to (you won't remember exactly how it goes back together - you always think you will, or it will be obvious - but you won't, and it won't be)  ;D

8. You're a little too vague on the electrical issue for me to be much help - make sure your battery is fully charged #1. Second, check your grounds. Third, check your other connections - just walk through your lines and make sure everything looks as it should - (i.e. everything connected, no fused/broken wires), then check your fuses. You can get a little do-dad from the auto-store that will check them for you to make sure that they are good - although you can usually eye-ball them, but if they can look good, and be blown (ask me how I know)

That's probably plenty to chew on - if you want more help on the electrical you'll have to take some photos and run some tests after you check the basics - such as your battery charge.

Good luck - sounds like you have a cool project! These bikes are fantastic - once you get the kinks ironed out, they run really well and mostly problem free. They are four decades old though - but that's just part of the fun  8)
Calling upon my years of experience, I froze at the controls.  ~Stirling Moss

2014 Ducati Monster 796
1977 CB550K http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=138289.0
1977 CB550K
1972 CL175
2000 Kaw Nomad 1500
1992 KDX 200
2001 Honda 80R
Past Bikes:
1973 Kaw 900Z1
1970 Yamaha 350RD
2003 Yamaha VStar 1100
2001 Suzuki GS850

Offline shinyribs

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Welcome to CB's! Dont worry,these bikes are incredibly easy to work on.They are great machines,yet very simple to work on. You will do just fine!

On your question about oil: I use Shell Rotella T6. It is easy to get 24/7 as Walmart stocks it. At about $24 a gallon it is not very expensive and it is compatible with your wet clutch.Not all oils are so watch out for that.

Has your bike been sitting for an extended period of time?If so a complete fluid change is a great place to start.Go ahead and get your bike on the center stand and then get the front wheel off the ground,too.I use a bottle jack under the engine pan towards the front.You wont hurt the pan.It is string and the bike is not terribly heavy.Slide a piece of wood in there if you are concerned,though.

 Engine oil and filter for starters.When you change you engine oil be sure to drain the oil tank.It has a drain plug on it.Best to have some sort of funnel as it is in a location that will drain all over everything :) 3.7 quarts will be what is needed to refill your bike after this.

Drain and flush the oil in your forks. Seafoam will help,but ATF does a pretty good job and is much cheaper. If at all possible, remove the front wheel to do this.It is not necessary,but it will make flushing your forks easier.Remove and drain the old oil then pour some ATF or Seafoam in the forks.Leave the caps off and just pump the forks several times until the fluid comes out nice,clean and clear.Once clean,refill with your personal choice of fluid.ATF can be used in place of fork oil. It has worked well for me. Be careful when you remove the top fork nuts as they are under some pressure. Not a whole lot,but they can go flying if you let them.Just keep pressure on them when them come loose and you will be OK.They are not gonna try and break your fingers.I promise!Fill the correct level the manual calls for on your bike. Though 6.5-7 oz seems to work just fine.

There is also a grease fitting for the swingarm pivot where it is mounted to the frame. It seems to be neglected quite often :)Give that a good lube job while you are at it.

While your front end is up check your steering bearings. The handle bars should be able to fall side to side with very little or no resistance.If you feel a notch in the center (straight ahead position) or any grittyness they will need replacing.If they just feel loose and the handle bars are wobbly you can try tightening them,though they should probably be replaced if you feel this. Tapered bearings are the best choice for this and are easily found on ebay for about $35-40 shipped.

Check the brake fluid.If it looks milky or funky,flush and replace.The life of your caliper seals and pistons depend on this.

Also check the condition of the fuel tank.If it rusty inside get it good and clean before you do anything concerning running the motor.Also install a good inline fuel filter while you are at it.

And the most important thing of all!!! Clean those carbs!!! If they are clean now you are a lucky individual.If not, it HAS to be done and done right.Do not skimp here or you will regret it later.It is just a necessary evil. Clean carbs=happy bike.If you do end having to pull your carbs,leave the carb boots/holders on the head! Loosen the clamps on the boot where the crabs attach but leave the clamps on the head side of the boots tight.If you do this you will not have to realign the boots later.It just makes life easy ;)

It may sound like alot to do,but it really isn't. Once you get started you will be done in no time. You could probably knock it out over a weekend...if everyone left you alone ;D

Good luck and have fun with your new toy!!!
The darn fool didn't know it couldn't be done...so he went ahead and did it anyway.

My Hackjob build- http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=106103.0

Offline mhsull

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Thanks a lot for the advice and the help.  I have my battery on the trickle charger right now and will be purchasing a multimeter today.  Tools.  I need the right ones.

I guess I felt pretty overwhelmed at first when I started listing all of the things that needed to be done.  I will start to use the google custom search for my questions.   
1977 CB750K

Offline LesterPiglet

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I need new glasses. I thought the OP's name was Hugh Newbie.  :o
'Then' and 'than' are completely different words and have completely different meanings. Same with 'of' and 'have'. Set and sit. There, their and they're. Draw and drawer. Could care less/couldn't care less. Bought/brought FFS.


Les Ross.            Certified by a Professional

Offline Magilla

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Needs to be asked;

How is it that your dream bike is a 77 CB750k?  This would not be the normal dream for someone born around 1984.  By the 80s the flat seat, Euro style, bike was a thing of the past, for the most part.  Most people born in the 80s would have a dream bike of a Ninja or maybe a Harley depending on your upbringing.  Don't get me wrong, I am not knocking your dream.  I am just curious as how it came about.
1972   Honda CB350
1972   Yamaha 500
1982   Yamaha 650
1988   Harley Sportster 883
1983   HD FXR Shovelhead
2003   HD Heritage Softail
2006   Victory Vegas Jackpot
1980   Honda CB650
1976   Honda CB750K
1982   Honda CB750
1964   Honda CA95
1982   Kawasaki 550
1974   Honda CL360
1975   Suzuki GT550
1981   Honda CB750
1981   Honda CB750
1970   Norton Commando
1972   Yamaha U7E
1970   BMW R50/5
1976   Honda CB750F

Offline mhsull

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I guess I should clarify what I meant.

My "dream" was to buy an older bike that I could slowly rebuild and restore (while learning how the engine works) to something that I specifically customize. 

When I started looking around and getting into this, I read everywhere that the Japanese bikes were the best for learning.  In looking at all of the styles, I specifically wanted the cb750 because I was really drawn to the flat seat and the 4 into 4 exhaust and something with plenty of power to get me through the blue ridge parkway (I live about 2 hours from it and have taken my Yamaha Vstar up there a few times).  I really like the old "cafe racer" look and I eventually want to start turning my bike into that when I get through with most of the engine/technical work.  Can't quite do cosmetic work yet.

Basically, I have been drawn to the cafe racer look and the 70's model CB seemed to be an easier bike to work on.  If I was getting picky, I probably wanted to model type before the 77 but I couldn't find any in my price range.

I have never been a big harley fan because of their reliability and I am not one for crotch rockets.  I like the way Harleys look but I know too many fellow bikers that constantly have problems.
1977 CB750K

Offline george

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Welcome aboard young sir ! You will find that your 750 is a pleasure to own and to ride. Not to pesky to work on either! I purchased 2 K8's in 1978 showroom new lost them along the way, one to crash damage , the other to an ill fated marriage in 1980 !  In 08 found a 78 , been so happy ever since, was miserable all those years without a single cammer. As I said , they are a pleasure, the bug has been in me since 1969 at age 14 !
Spend plenty of time on here, it's all documented and all will help out !
Found this bike in completely stock condition in Feb. 08. Paid over twice what my new one cost 30 years ago. Am trying to re-create the look of the late 70's Drag Bike styling.More later. 4-2-10 It ain't stock any more and I have no idea what I am trying to create !

Offline rboe

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I'm new here too but not to forums. So, ask away because there can be many lurkers hoping someone asks the very question you just asked.

I've found in this format a one focused question per post. In subject line start with the year and model, then the question. That will hit your target audience straight away and will help future searches. It also helps YOU look for your post. This is a very active group and one little distraction will have your question on page in no time. So it's a two fer.  ;D

Enjoy the process.  ;D
1974 CB350F
2008 XR650L
2012 Griso SE

Past iron
1971 Suzuki TS125
1977 Honda CJ360T
1981 Kawasaki 550Ltd
2000 Moto Guzzi Quota

Offline Tews19

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Huge newbie here and I have a bunch of annoying questions for anyone...
« Reply #13 on: June 18, 2012, 07:23:20 PM »
Welcome to the site! You have come to the right place! PM me your mailing address and info. I will give you the tank grommet. You pay shipping which will be maybe 2-5 bucks. Or if you want I have blinkers for your year bike which are in excellent shape. I can sell you those for a new a new Member discount. Fuel filter? I think it may be referencing the filter on the petcock. Looks like a straw with a mess bag around it. Be careful with it. Disassemble and spray with carb cleaner. Do not get carb cleaner on any rubber parts. It will ruin the rubber. As listed above. Buy new tires. Change the spark plugs. Do a valve adjustment. Invest in feeler gauges for this from motion pro. We can walk you through the process.  Check the timing. Use a metal nail file to clean the points. Make sure the timing is spot on. Buy a new battery.  Oh yeah, pics or it didn't happen.
« Last Edit: June 18, 2012, 07:35:10 PM by Tews19 »
1969 Honda CB750... Basket case
1970 Honda CB750 survivor.

Offline Eydugstr

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Welcome to the forum, mhsull!  Congrats on the new ride.

1.  Manual with great pics, tons of info...http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=65293.0. Little on the expensive side, but worth every penny in the long run.  Another manual to consider would be a Haynes;  The pictures aren't as good in quality as Hondaman's book, but the model they break down is a later model UK version, more like the bike you have.

2 & 3.  The blinker relay is located behind the battery holder, being held in place by a rubber grommet.  Like others have said already, I'd go ahead and start checking out the electrical system, clean & tighten connections, test & charge the battery, etc etc before replacing it.  If you do need to find another blinker relay ebay's probably the best option there.

4.  Most of the stuff you'd need to convert it back to stock is still around.  The headlight bucket, trim ring, and turn signals are all available through dealer or aftermarket.  The fork ears might be a little more difficult - the 77/78's used the style that held the signal out on a metal stem/tube that was formed on the bottom of the fork ear;  A lot of them got cut off by "customizers" at some point!  Ebay is probably you're best shot there, too.

The real question is what was done to the wiring harness when the previous owner installed the windjammer.  If the wiring harness itself is too far gone to salvage, don't freak out - vintagecb750supply.com has replacement wire harnesses for that year.

5.  #0000 wire mesh (available at auto parts and hardware stores) and chrome polish will go a long ways to making old pipes look really good.  If you're goal is absolutely flawless pipes, replacement sets are available on ebay.  Major $$$'s, though.

6.  Yes the rear gas tank straps are still available.  Don't let the fact it doesn't use a bolt scare you, they work really well.  They're still available, again ebay - but when I replaced mine last time, went ahead and bought new rubber bushings at the front of the tank, as well.   Really made for a snug fit.

7.  Well, granted there's a lot to check on any used bike...lubing the cables and checking the ends to make sure the wire/ends aren't cracked is a good start...But the best place to start is to go into the manual, and do all the recommend 1st service checks, work your way down the list and take your time.

8.  Asking for an oil opinion on a motorcycle forum is like opening a can of worms...just go with what the manual says, and make sure it's motorcycle specific (for use with wet plate clutches, which the cb750 has).

9.  The fuel valve also serves as the fuel filter;  it catches a lot of crud with filters and brass screens on/inside the valve.  If all else fails, new fuel valves are still available through cb750supply.com or vintagecb750supply.com.  I am not sure if the fuel valve kits are still available through honda, maybe someone else will chime in there.  Some guys get tempted and run an inline filter, do fine...Me personally I wouldn't, mainly because it's just masking another problem (crud building up/coming loose in the tank).

You said you were going to have tank blasted and re-sealed, right?  If so, make sure to use a good liner (por-15 or red kote) because they'll hold up to ethanol better than the old creem stuff will.   Re-sealing the tank will solve a lot of problems right there!!

10 & 11.  Does the bike run?  Are the brakes & tires in good shape?  What condition is the chain/sprockets?  Is the rider & bike licensed?  If all those things are a go,  maybe the best advice is just ride the bike, figure out what's wrong and slowly tackle one thing at a time.  Like another poster said, take plenty of pictures along the way.

Have fun, and definitely post some pics!


Offline mhsull

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Thanks again for all of the responses.  I have already gotten some PMs that have been a huge help and I really appreciate it.  I started tearing it down and listing everything I came across that looked like it needed repairing/replacing and it started to get overwhelming.

Good thing is that it does run so I will just take it one task at a time.  I don't know most of the terminology so I can't answer a lot of the questions being shot back to me. 

Wiring harness...I don't know what that is.  Guessing it is the bunch of taped up wires behind the fairing but I will find out soon enough.
1977 CB750K

Offline cookindaddy

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Welcome! I have the same as you but 78. Ours are virtually identical and when you look for parts you can usually think 77/78 CB750K. F is often different.

I will add on the gas tank:

Maybe don't be in such a hurry to have it "professionally" cleaned and coated inside.

Firstly, there is a very fine Honda filter IN THE TANK above the petcock or there should be. Even some "pros" don't know it is there. If you've removed the petcock it may not be obvious to you that it is there. If you look through the filler hole with a flashlight you can see it above where the petcock mounts. If it is there, take it out and look at it. It comes out through the bottom. It should be cleaned and in good condition. You can get a new one from Honda for about $20. This filter is your first line of defense for crud in the tank and IT WORKS. I agree (we say +1) with Eydugstr about not needing another filter in the gas line. I will add: if one is there take it out and use a short length of good new gas line of the right size from petcock to the carbs. It should slope down so no air is trapped.

I have a very nice tank with rust and never have problems with my carbs. I cleaned them also like someone said but it is real important to have a good in-tank filter before you get to the carbs, otherwise you'll plug them up again.

As you read up here on coating tanks, you will see that there are lots of horror stories and tanks get destroyed with bad method, even by the "pros". Beware of rad shops for cleaning tanks. Then again lots of people do it. I didn't and mine is just fine thank you.

The pic below is from servicehonda.com. I find that a very useful place to look up parts. All the fiches that someone spoke about are here. The in-tank filter is item 3 and is p/n 16952-388-015, price from servicehonda is $21.25. You can also see the mounting rubber that you asked about there as item 13. You can look it up yourself - try it.

Changing the filter is real easy and then you hopefully can be sure you are feeding clean gas to your machine. Work on the other stuff after that and don't worry about coating your tank just yet I think.

Yes, the Honda recommended service list should be your guide to what HAS to get checked. Work your way through that list. Good thing that it runs and if if you ride it carefully as you go along, your bike will tell you what it needs.

And most of all - enjoy it - its a hell of a machine.

Good luck!
« Last Edit: June 19, 2012, 05:42:57 AM by cookindaddy »
George with a black 78 CB750K (in Lion's Head, Ontario, Canada)

Offline LesterPiglet

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Wiring harness...I don't know what that is.  Guessing it is the bunch of taped up wires behind the fairing but I will find out soon enough.
The wiring harness is the complete wiring from the front of the bike to the rear.
'Then' and 'than' are completely different words and have completely different meanings. Same with 'of' and 'have'. Set and sit. There, their and they're. Draw and drawer. Could care less/couldn't care less. Bought/brought FFS.


Les Ross.            Certified by a Professional

Offline mhsull

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Wiring harness...I don't know what that is.  Guessing it is the bunch of taped up wires behind the fairing but I will find out soon enough.
The wiring harness is the complete wiring from the front of the bike to the rear.


Learning every day.  I am about to order a headlight and turn signals to mount with a bracket but I am not sure what I will do with all of the wires that look like will be sticking out behind the light. 
1977 CB750K

Offline mhsull

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Thanks for the info on the fuel filter "cookin".  I did find the filter yesterday with the help of another on here and it looked clean as a whistle.  Sadly, I already took my tank in to be "creemed" so hopefully nothing horrible happens to it.  Now I am a bit worried though.

Are the filters in the fuel line a waste of money if you have one in the tank or is doubling up possibly a good idea?
1977 CB750K

Offline Tews19

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The petcock filter is standard. Unless you like cleaning carbs, the standard Honda filter is great. Sediment can be inside the tank. The smallest particle can effect the carbs. It won't effect it in a negative way either.
1969 Honda CB750... Basket case
1970 Honda CB750 survivor.

Offline Stev-o

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Inline fuel filters should not be needed and are not recommended (others may have a different opinion). The fuel is gravity fed so you do not want to modify the routing of the fuel lines. And keep them as vertical as possible to keep the fuel flowing properly. "
'74 "Big Bang" Honda 750K [836].....'76 Honda 550F.....K3 Park Racer!......and a Bomber!............plus plus plus.........

Offline shinyribs

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I personally would not run a brand new petcock screen if it was give to me. The screens filter very poorly and will give you problems down the road.Either it will let trash into your carburetors or it will rot itself .Either way an inline filter is just alot easier to deal with. I use the ones with paper elements.Sure,they dont look as cool and racy as the other models available,but they filter WAY better. Also,you can actually see an inline filter and replace it in minutes when it starts to appear suspect.Petcock screens are not so easy to get to.  As long as your fuel line is hooked to your carbs on one end and the tank on the other you will be fine.If you have to allow a sag or loop into the line for whatever reason it will not cut of severely limit your fuel flow. I intentionally route mine thru a tab on the frame to ensure it won't accidentally get pulled loose while throwing a leg over the bike. I've done that.It sucks.

Some people are in  love with the way Honda assembled these bikes. Nothing wrong with that. But that does not mean those same ways are the only acceptable ways to do a bike.

Purely my opinions. Decide for yourself which you think will better suit your needs. Oh,and inline filters are about 3 bucks. I keep one in my toolkit just in case. You never know what might come out of a gas pump sometimes :o

Good luck with your project.Keep us in the loop. We're here to help.Ask away
The darn fool didn't know it couldn't be done...so he went ahead and did it anyway.

My Hackjob build- http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=106103.0

Offline Bankerdanny

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Welcome. Just so you know, every time someone asks about the 'right' oil or tires a puppy dies, so keep that in mind before you bring those subjects up. :)

Search is your friend, I can almost guaranty that any question you have has been asked and answered before. That doesn't mean you shouldn't ask, but searching gets you an answer now, asking will take longer.

Finally, if there are no pictures, it didn't happen/doesn't exist. Some questions just can't be answered without a picture of the problem. So make sure you learn how to upload pictures to your posts. Plus, we all just like to see each others bikes.
"The problem with quotes on the Internet is that you never know if they're true" - Abraham Lincoln

Current: '76 CB750F. Previous:  '75 CB550F, 2007 Yamaha Vino 125 Scooter, '75 Harley FXE Superglide, '77 GL1000, '77 CB550k, '68 Suzuki K10 80, '68 Yamaha YR2, '69 BMW R69S, '71 Honda SL175, '02 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, '89 Yamaha FJ1200